UPDATE :65 MF Fouling Spark Plugs with oil

MWOatdog

New User
Update, I have 140 pounds compression on all 4 cylinders dry, Didn't go up much with wet test. I removed the valve cover and found someone put too much silicone gasket sealer around vent tube where it is bolted to valve cover it almost completely plugged vent. It only had a pinhole opening through pan into tube. Could this cause tractor to smoke a lot when starting and oil foul the plugs. I had almost convinced myself to go ahead and remove head and get valve guides replaced, now I don't know. Thanks for all who replied so far it has been a big help. I will replace the paper air cleaner, put a kit in carburetor, and get tune up kit for distributer, with new wires and hotter plugs. Does anyone think I should go ahead with getting head reworked ? Thanks
 
I would try the things you suggested first. Sounds like oil couldn't get back to pan. You haven't lost anything if this doesn't work, you can still do head.
 
That could be a pretty good mess. Tube gets cleared out and the oil to your
valve train can now get down to the pan. Sounds good to me. Might smoke a tiny
bit till she gets worked a little.
 
With a plugged vent It is probably pulling oil past the valve guides, and you know what happens then.
 
Yes, excess crankcase pressure can cause oil consumption, and main seal leaks, and blowing out the dipstick or anywhere else it can find it's way out.

Since finding the vent plugged, I think I would just set the valve lash, put it back together and see what happens.

Symptom of bad valve guides is blue smoke on start up that clears out once up and running.

Symptom of bad oil rings is blue smoke under load.

Symptom of bad compression rings is excess blow-by, puffing smoke and oil mist out the vent tube, worse under load.

Now that the vent is clear, and you get it up and running, watch what symptoms you see, then make your decision.

One thing to watch, if you do pull the head, don't turn the engine with the head off until you secure the sleeves down with a couple of bolts and flat washers. They just sit in the block with an oring seal on the bottom. If allowed to move, the seal will be broken, sediment from the water jacket will get under the sleeves, and they will have to come out and be resealed. Major job!
 
(quoted from post at 16:30:41 02/12/19) Update, I have 140 pounds compression on all 4 cylinders dry, Didn't go up much with wet test. I removed the valve cover and found someone put too much silicone gasket sealer around vent tube where it is bolted to valve cover it almost completely plugged vent. It only had a pinhole opening through pan into tube. Could this cause tractor to smoke a lot when starting and oil foul the plugs. I had almost convinced myself to go ahead and remove head and get valve guides replaced, now I don't know. Thanks for all who replied so far it has been a big help. I will replace the paper air cleaner, put a kit in carburetor, and get tune up kit for distributer, with new wires and hotter plugs. Does anyone think I should go ahead with getting head reworked ? Thanks

I hope clearing the vent helps.

For what it's worth, you can have good compression and still have an "oil burner".

The compression (upper) rings on the pistons seal compression and the oil ring(s) lower ring(s) scrape oil downward in the bore and control oil burning.

The compression rings can be good, giving good compression, and if the oil control ring(s) is worn, damaged, improperly installed, etc. they will still "pump" oil.
 
I have seen a couple of people do a valve
job to stop oil burning. Both wasted their
time and money. Do a complete rebuild.
 

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