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Ferguson plow

grandpa Love

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Picked this up yesterday. Anyway to tell what year it was made? Also where can I buy parts? Shares, coulter's,and tail wheel. I'm thinking is should be gray?
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Should be useable for a small garden as is?
 
I cannot see the nose on the share to tell how good they are. Rest of share looks good. And you do NOT want to buy new shares at the tune of around $150 per share from factory here in Ohio. I will send you contact info if you want it. Not sure where to get the tail wheel or coulters. Coulters from any make will work. And yes battleship grey.40's or early 50's. And it is a 14" I believe and not a 16", definatly not a 12". Does it have the word Ford in top of beam? that can date it. My plow with Ferguson tag has Ford in beam and it was bought new in May of 44.
 
Doesn't have Ford on top beam. One point is broke. A friend who is a welder says he can fix it. Says it will be fine for the small amount of plowing I do
 
some of the small plows without a tail wheel just have an extended (long) rear landside. I'm not sure you would even need that on a 2 bottom 3pt plow. tail wheel for that would probably be hard to find.
 
Not that this is any help to you, but pretty sure there's one of these hidden in the bushes at the back of every farmyard in Scotland! Would have had disk coulters as standard. The one we had worked fine without a tail wheel, but it did have a long landside. The one in the photo has different mouldboards from yours. Good luck with it!
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Hey Bill, I sure hope Jim gets to have plow day this spring. Maybe it won't rain this year. Plan to take my dad and the Ford 960. Also Minnie mo Mick and his Moline plow.
 
Had a friends for a number of years, tag said Harry Ferguson, never saw one that said Sherman on it, possibly making yours an earlier model ? Lot of them around regardless of the era. Adjusted correctly to the tractor it should do a nice job. That one share could be repaired. Finding a period correct tailwheel, arm and wheel, and coulters may be difficult, but I have to wonder why one could not easily fabricate the arms for each with an end for the axle and wheel. There's nothing special about that, just need the geometry to be correct and with your skills + welder friend, would be a simple project. Adapt something late model or off the shelf.

Here it is in the photo, not correctly adjusted, level box was seized, but I was able to work up this old garden for the neighbor lady and put it back in grass.

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I thought the front one looked like it was missing the point. To fix get a leaf spring from a car or truck that is about the width of the point on other share and weld it to top of broken share with it sticking out to same distance as point on good share. Make sure you do NOT cover a bolt hole. The spring will have a slight curve in it and place it so that the end of curve is close to where the end of good point is, Now the point on both shares has to be lowest part of share, Should be one quarter inch below rest of cutting edge. If not the plow will not go in the ground. And your smallest tractor should pull it fine as it was made for either a TO-20, TO-30 or TO-35 all with same or less power than your 600 Ford and should actually be better to put the plow behind. You want a 52" center to center wheel tread for that plow and the low tractor is better to have that wheel tread as with the 960 I would want a 60" measurement due to height and running one wheel 7" lower, lot easier on the back and also if on hills less chance of tipping. If the shares were worn heavy narrow on the back cutting side I could give directions for rebuilding with throwaway deep suck shares. Those are a general purpose bottom and best with no ground cover. Do you have the bracket for the tail wheel or is everything gone? The tail wheel likes to wear and break but a welder can make one that will work, just not just not a P C correct one for shows. To adjust for wheel tread you rotate the cross bar to achive that, do not try to slide the plow sideways on that bar, will not work. I have operators manuals for it if you need any more information but might be a while before I can find them as I am in prosses of moving and have to be completely off old place by Feb. 27 And every thing will be setting in boxes at new place untill I can get everything sorted and a place found for it. The wider you have the wheels the less angle the tractor is setting on in the furrow but with that wider wheel tread you should be having with that 960 will make problems with setting the plow for that wheel tread.
 
I own three of these plows.....every time I purchase a parts Tractor (TEA-20 Ferguson ) I end up with a plow:

My MF FE 35 X 44 HP diff. lock handles this plow easily. The Tea-20 Ferguson handles it OK:

John Deere 520 with 18.4 X 30 Tires handles it easily:

I picked up some Coulter's ..shall install:

All rear tires are filled with liquid ballast:

If you ever locate NOS Shears or a supplier (fabricates new sears)I would like to purchased four Shears......possibly get a deal if enough were sold:

Bob...Owner of several different colored tractors


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I should have added, put the moldboard extensions back on if you have them, the moldboards already have the holes. Those are easily added, I think they help quite a bit, to get that sod or top to roll over completely.
 
Didn't come with em. But a friend of mine has a crate full of plow parts and he said that he probably has some that would fit. Just gotta dig through 1000 lbs of metal. Tough job!!! Lol
 
For new shares contact Steve Rea at Ploworx at 330-332-9386 or [email protected] located at 13909 Duck Creek Rd., Salem, OH 44460. He bought out the old Cresent Forge company that made shares.
 
I think you could just use a flat piece of steel, not sure if any slight bend or being in the same plane of the moldboard is necessary. You would think both surfaces being in the same plane would be smoothest, we'll let the plow match experts debate that one, but it surely requires some skill to moldboard plow correctly, even for ones garden.

It's going to be fun to see what turns up in the crate, just don't pinch a finger.

A lot of these Ferguson moldboard plows seem to have at least one broken moldboard that has been welded together, one I had was like that. Some areas have glacial till, and there's always round rocks of various sizes, must be what breaks these.

Once I figured out that Ferguson plow to this tractor, it did a really nice job.
 
I wold not try to make them. Fact is I have taken them off to help with pluging. Unless you are trying to rum too deep they will not do much. The 124" bottom and most were was designed to run 7" deep, very few Ferguson 16" made in later years. Look under back end of moldboards and if razor shary it was ran too deep, if thick as rest of moldboard then it was not run too deep. And 7" should be all thatGrandpa needs to go. So should not need those extensions that were sols as an extra. But he does need to find coultes as it will never work correctly without them. Half the bracket might be cast in the beam and coulter shands are smaller for the Ferguson than for a Deere.
 
That chain hanging down is for to keep coulter from swinging over into tractor tire and should be one for back bottom as well. My Ford, Ford name molded in beam but Ferguson tag, nothing about Shermam (Sherman was company that first designed the plow for Harry Ferguson for use on the steel wheel Fordson with hand lift on plow) and that plow came to live with me when I was 8 months old or the plow will have been here for 75 years this May. Same as tractor.
 
Info on your plow:
Tail wheel....They pivot up & Down.... a spring arrangement...:
Spec sheet .....
I'm unable to supply better detailed pictures of the Wheel as I'm away from my summer residence for another three months.....

If you are plowing rock free land these plows are great for the acreage guys......well the shares are tough to find:
Bob...
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I have one in pieces, ended up basically throwing it in the scrap pile because both frogs were bent beyond repair. Pretty sure I have the tail wheel. It was pretty complete, missing one coulter. I stole the one coulter it had for my MF 3 bottom when I resurrected it.

You can have the tail wheel but you would have to come get it.
 
You are in Oklahoma? That's a
road trip! Shipping might not be
bad. What does it weigh? I'm in
Central AL.
 
That share is easily repaired but I have NEVER saw a plow beam having been broken and then welded. Very likely it is not where welded in correct position and plow will never work, just like having a bent beam bottom will not be in alignment. Befor spending any money on it do a lot of measuring to see if that broken part is not same as sprong beam that will never let it work. I am thinking only place for that plow is in a flower bed like that red one. If you paid $25 for it you paied way too much being in that condition.
 
There is a sweet spot on the depth with these, have been on both sides of it, sucking in too deep, or too shallow. Kept at it and finally got the better results.
My 1-16 Ford 110 is one of the easiest pulling plows, easy to adjust, but when you watch it, it just glides through the soil, rolls it over perfectly and goes through those large glacial till roundhead kind of rocks never shearing a bolt. Only time it does that is if you hit a thick enough root and it don't take much. My 2-14 101 wants to run on it's nose, been trying to master adjusting it.
 
(quoted from post at 17:18:18 02/10/19) You are in Oklahoma? That's a
road trip! Shipping might not be
bad. What does it weigh? I'm in
Central AL.
Click to expand...

Just outside Tulsa. Honestly now that I think about it, I can't remember if the tail wheel was on it. Thinking it was but will have to wait till it gets light outside and quits raining before I can make sure.

Am sure I have the beam that has been welded on yours and possibly shares that are better than what you have. My issue is I do not want to go to the trouble of finding a box, packing and hauling it someplace to ship. You are welcome to any of it you can use but someone would need to come get it.
 
Yes, I do have the tail wheel, The whole plow has been taken apart. Might be a bit of a chore digging through my scrap pile to find all the pieces for the complete tail wheel assembly but am sure it's all there. At least everything but the bolts, had to cut quite a few off to get it apart.
 
I always love a road trip. Gotta
work on my wife a bit. Lol. Shoot
me an email and I will let you
know if and when we head that way.
May be summer time...
 
Do not see an email link in either view. Drop me a note to [email protected] and I will send you what is going to be my new email address. This one has been out on the net for almost 20 years and believe it's on every spam list in existence already.
 
You could probably find coulters at a place like agri supply, shares too. As far as color i'm not really sure, I have a plow that looks exactly like that one but its red, maybe mine was repainted in the past though.
 
Agri Supply will not have anything for that plow. If it had the new style blade throwaway type share yes but not the old blacksmith sharpen type, that plow is 20 years too old for them or any other parts supplier to have shares unless they just deal in antique parts. If Agri Supply would have a coulter that I have not checked for it would have a 1 1/2" shank and his plow will only take a 1 1/4 or 1 3/8" shank, forget witch it is without measuring and 20 some mile away and 9 at night so not going out to measure.
 
Leroy I really wish someone would come out with a blacksmith plow share replacement that a person could actually afford 150$ each is just out of this world .
 
Years ago that type of share was well over a hundred dollars. Now Steve is the only one making them and I don't know how much he had to pay to get the old Cresent Forge equipment but I am sure it was not cheap plus having to move things 2 states and setup he has a fortune in it and probably is having a hard time getting it to pay out at current prices. If he had not steped in when he did it was just days untill the scrap man was going to have it all and then there would have been none to be had at any price. Some of the molds did go to scrap and an Amish group bought out the patterns for some of the horse drawn plows. Any other shares are new old stock someone has gotten a hold of or bought from Steve. They are cheaper to buy than the throw away blade shares per acre plowed if you treat them correctly and resharpen them correctly but you need a big forge and a trip hammer to do it correctly but if you have a good strong arm you can do it with a 2# hammer. I have sharpened them with my small forge. Never take a grinder to them to sharpen.
 
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