Composite Decking (Trex) - Opinions

Good Afternoon Gentlemen, we have an existing wooden deck attached to our house that could use re-decked. The existing structure is 2x8 on 16" centers with 5/4 pressure treated deck boards on top. This location gets a lot of direct sunlight. We would like to replace the 5/4 decking and was wondering what everyone's opinion was on using a composite deck product. How does it hold up, what on center spacing can the joists be? Do the composite deck boards need spaced or do you but them tight? If attaching with screws in the face, do pilot holes need drilled? Is there any maintenance? Any particular brands to choose or stay away from. Thanks in advance.
 
We have them on our deck for 10 plus years, stand up very well, not slippery when wet. Spaced about one eighth inch apart, screws are countersink so they don't snag on anything.
Ben
 
I investigate Trex for a boat ramp project I was building about 2 years ago, and asked the same question. My finding is that the composit(plastic) decking material holds up very well.

I chose to go with treated deck wood because the Trex was frighteningly expensive, and they are adamant that one cannot screw within about 2" of the end board, so the under-frame needed to be cantilevered, and that did not work with my fitted 12' framing, or I would need to buy 14' boards and hack off about 2 good feet.

I bought wood from Higganbotham lumber, treated, and aged, then I coated with oil-based semi transparent cedar stain twice. After about 2 years now, the boards still look pretty good, and the price including stain was still under half the price of Trex board.
 
We used it for a large deck project and are very happy with it. Just a few things to consider:

1) Not all composites are created equal. Some are solid so they have the same color and material all the way through, whereas others have a thin shell of surface material. Solid is good from the point that any deep scratches will show the same color as the surface. Both are equally weather resistant from what I have seen.
2) We used a hidden attachment clip system known as Mantis clips. Very easy to work with and no surface hole on the decking. And it automatically spaces the boards the right distance apart.
3) Floor joists should be no more than 12" apart to make it feel solid. They say you can go to 16" but we found it was too far apart and would show too much sag under weight for our liking.
4) The deck boards will definitely fade under sunlight. This usually happens over the first three years and then the color stabilizes. So if you find a deal on some composite because it is unequally faded (which we did), it will all look the same in a few years.
5) No maintenance required other than cleaning.
 
Well I have this experience, 7.5 years ago we built a new house and used over 10 thousand dollars worth of TREX called first generation. One portion of this deck is directly facing East and the house has large high energy windows. The reflection from the windows caused some buckling of the wood. After talking to a guy on here called (Grand Paw love )I think who installs decks, I got in touch with Trex. They replaced all the problem boards with what is now called generation II. I am now very satisfied and it appears to be holding up well. We do spray it with mile bleach and pressure wash it about ever other year. Sure beat old 5 1/4 in my opinion. Ever deck I ever build with that stuff had to be replaced ever 5 years or so.
 
I used a composite by the brand name of Nexwood 15 years ago on the deck floor and railing and it's still looking good. It's rough textured to look like rough wood. My deck is on the east side of the house and has a roof over it with a good overhang so the sun isn't on it all that much. It does need to be supported every 12" though. The railing is on poles spaced 8' apart but it needs a support in the middle of the 8'.
 
Just got done with my porch deck. I used fiberon composite as that was what the lumberyard recomended. Decking was set on 16? spacing as per manufacturer. I used their concealed fasteners but face screwed the first and last board with a deck screw similar to a trim screw.
 
There's another option that I just recently learned about -- Thermally Modified Wood.

They can take any kind of wood (even wood that hates the elements!) and cook it in a hot oven with no oxygen. The wood darkens, but also undergoes a cellular change. It becomes pretty much weatherproof AND bug proof! Plus you still have all the natural beauties of real wood.

I know there's a place in Minnesota that makes it; am thinking it's over towards Duluth way. There are other places as well. Might have to special order it in your area though. I'm guessing price would be somewhere between that of pressure treated and Trex-like products, probably closer to that higher end.

Here's some more info bout Thermally Modified Wood:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermally_modified_wood

http://www.hardwooddistributors.org/blog/postings/what-is-thermally-modified-wood/

https://www.baileywp.com/html/thermo.html

[b:f72617d4bb]This link has their pricing:[/b:f72617d4bb]
http://www.theworkbench.com/thermally.modified.php
 

I replaced our deck several years ago. I used the pressure treated 5/4 deck boards and pressure treated 4x4s, 2x6s, and 2x12s. Deck is on the west side of the house. Catches ALL the afternoon sun. We painted that deck one year after it was built. Repainted it just once since then. The pressure treated deck is holding up very well. No indications of warping or other deterioration.
 
Trex is one of the better composites, but it is expensive. It is not as strong as 5/4 decking, lift a board from the end to compare how easily they bend/sag under their own weight. In direct sunlight the plastic coating is hot touch compared to wood. Myself, I still prefer 5/4 wood decking or 1 1/2 inch lumber. 1 1/2 dimensional lumber can last over 30 years on a deck floor.

IMHO, stay away from the composites that do not have a protective shell around the composite center. Those boards key into each other for additional strength and water pools on the deck. On some the top 1/8 spalls away in less than ten years leaving a very weak, brittle board. I would absolutely never use it on stair treads.

Search the YT archives for composite decking or for Trex to read some very good discussions.
 
Never had, just seeing the stuff laying on the supports in store the way it was saging was enough for me that I did not want it.
 
We have a friend that mills and installs wood flooring and all kinds of trim in expensive houses. They showed me that thermally modified wood. If I ever need to replace our deck, I am going to look into that more. Looks like a good option.
 
Each brand seems to have their own fastening system so you need their clips, screws, etc. Only the surface has the color so if there are any ends showing it looks like crap. I'll stick with treated. I'm rebuilding mine now and using the Camo screw system. Screws are toed in the edges just off the surface so they don't show and you can replace a board anywhere. With some composites you have to remove all the board from one side. Not to mention the cost.
 
You DO have to maintain a space between the boards during installation. They EXPAND in the sun. Verify with the manufacturer proper installation, else they will buckle.

Planks in the sun can get really hot on bare feet.

All plastic planking does fade over time. If one needs to be replaced, the next one will never match, and you really can't do anything about it.

If you are intending on the ends being visible, does the core look like the body of the plank? On most plastics, you can route the edges to achieve a nice round-over and reduce sharp cut edges.

I have a 22 year old yellow pine treated 5/4 deck. Afternoon sun in SW Michigan. Gets pressure washed every year. Stained/sealed every 3 years. A little tired, but still like the look & feel of wood.

Some plastic decks I've been on squeak a lot when ya walk on them.

Too many folks are looking for the totally maintenance free materials to on outdoor projects. The outside world has way too many variations in order for any material to meet those challenges.

Pete
 
(quoted from post at 13:44:13 01/29/19) We have a friend that mills and installs wood flooring and all kinds of trim in expensive houses. They showed me that thermally modified wood. If I ever need to replace our deck, I am going to look into that more. Looks like a good option.

I just checked price and availability to my area in TX.

Just -- Oh my! I think it would be more than Trex, although it does sound like a nice product. They really are proud of the stuff.
 
I have a 22 year old yellow pine treated 5/4 deck. Afternoon sun in SW Michigan. Gets pressure washed every year. Stained/sealed every 3 years. A little tired, but still like the look & feel of wood.

Same here. Since we don't have termites here, all I really need to protect from is cold, a little Summer sun, lots of moisture (including snow piled up for months on end), and "MAYBE" a few carpenter ants. My personal preference is to use natural (untreated) wood, but give it a golden, protective sheen using new, fresh motor oil. Just apply the oil every so often.

For a reddish look, go with the red ATF.
 
If you go with Trex do your research. The devil of the warranty is in the install. They can and will pick your install apart. They are good at dealing with legitimate claims. Contact Trex. They will send you install info. We love the flooring. Email me if you want chat about composite options. We have installed 100's of decks. Kevin in Central AL

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If you're gonna spend 10 grand on new floor spend the extra 2000 on new frame work. No sense putting life time flooring on 1/2 wore out frame.
 
I built my deck in '92. All wood. Two years ago I decided to replace the decking. It is over 700 sq. ft. Plus 2 sets of stairs. After checking Trex and a couple others, I decided to go back with wood. I figured the wood lasted 25 years the first time, if it lasts 25 years the second time, it will be someone elses (elses...is that a word?) problem. What really cost me the $ was the railing around the deck. That alone cost more than what the entire original deck did in '92 !
 
I'm not impressed with Trex. It gets hot in the direct sun and unless you put extra framing tends to sag. Myself when I do a deck I use pressure treated 2x6's. It doesn't have the rounded over corners so the gaps between the boards are smaller and 2x6's are cheaper than 5/4. I do have a planer though and usually surface a 1/16" off the face side of the wood making it smoother.

One thing I would recommend is if you use treated wood you get the wood and stack it up somewhere dry with sticks between the boards and allow it to dry for a month before installing the deck.
 
An alternative wood material no one mentioned is cedar it doesn"t rot like pressure treated and needs no treatment/sealant of any kind. It also doesn"t seem to warp and twist like pressure treated. When I built my deck in 2012 I talked to the lumber yard guy about trex and he talked me into cedar saying it was cheaper and not the problems of treated. 6.5 years later I"m happy with it, still looks nice after the all different weather in western Minnesota
 

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