Garage Door Extension Springs

I am re-using a garage door and went into the local door shop to get cable and perhaps some information. I got the cable, but they were stingy with the information. they doubted my sanity and kept saying, Be careful". I can understand because I ran a welding shop several years ago and I would give out information, but would stop telling them anything one they started to argue with me. I once told a mart axe to so all cutting and welding on a propane tank from inside. I had a method that I bet my life on, but did not know that it would always work. It seems that installing the springs would be somewhat simple. Am I overlooking something? P.S. I have installed torsion springs in the past, but no tension springs.

One suggestion, run a length of cable down the center of each spring and secure very it well at each end of the spring to the door jam and to the track brackets. This will contain the spring in the event of a spring failure or a failure of the spring fasteners. For me, linear springs secured this way concern me less than trying to tighten a torsion spring.

Rich

Im a little stumped on why the store was being rough on you. Your post appears to be referencing the long springs that run perpendicular to the garage door. Most folks reasonablbly mechanically inclined should have no trouble with those. Now, those heavy springs that are sitting right about a garage door and are connected to the solid shaft that runs on top of the door, those really should be installed by a pro. But i dont think you are talking about those type of springs.

Ditto. I did that on a couple of tension springs I had on another house. One eventually broke and took out the board at one of the ends it was fastened to but at least stayed where it was rather than fly across the room.

What you are talking about comes as part of the spring kit when new now, at least from some places. I found Menards had several more sizes than Lowes avaible and load rating is right on the pakage. The most dangerous part of installing them is working on the lader. Now the other type I would not touch.

For instructions, look online on any similar garage door manufacturer's website. The brand on the springs you bought would be a good place to start, there is probably a website listed on the package.

As others have suggested, run a cable through the spring as you are installing it and before you stretch the spring. That way the spring is tethered as you are right next to it working on it. I like to replace the springs in pairs so the tension and spring rate of both springs stays matched. Door work smoother when the spring tension is even. Also, by the time one spring is fatigued enough to break, the other may not be too far behind.

I lost a spring about a month ago and did not have a cable run through it. I found it in the opposite corner of the shop 50 ft. away. Fortunately it missed everything causing no damage mostly my tractor(tractor related)which was only 3' from where it landed.
I installed many overhead doors over the years. Lift the door to the open position enlist help if needed. Block track with a pin through or vise grips so that it stays up. Easiest way I know is to use S Hooks on the closed ended springs and close them down so they don't fall off while installing. Even the cables out so they can lift evenly. Many of them have cable stays for the ends that connect back to the track bracket if not you can weave the cable through the holes. I will use s hooks there too so I can pick which hole to use easier.
Hook the fixed end run the cable through the pulley and select fastening point with spring slightly extended. Usually the right tension is when the springs start to pull the door open farther. Release the pin or vise grips to see if it stays put and not drop. If the cables are set evenly the door will set firmly and level on the floor and won't put pressure on one side more than the other. If they are not even they can wear the rollers as it is pulling one way or they other. Definitely put safety cables through the springs and I should have said to do that when initially installing the springs. they will also keep the spring up making them easier to get ahold of when standing on step ladder.
The only thing that scares me about this is that the hardware or big box stores don't normally handle anything other than spring for 7' high door. I ended up at a overhead door company for the right springs. They need to know the weight of the door with everything unattached closer, springs and so on, and the height of the door. Bathroom scales will work. 7' spring will work on a 8' door but will fail prematurely and make it difficult to adjust the door easily.

Those springs will last longer if you oil them every so often. I think the metal to metal twisting on them tends to wear them thin in places. Bud

I came within inches of killing a nice old lady messing with a garage door when I had no idea. She asked me to do something, I forget, and she was standing right under it, when I unhooked one of the springs, the door CRASHED down right behind her. Came within inches of killing her. She said "Oh my." I thought "Oh S%%T!!!" I'll never mess with one again, never.

I thank all of you for the responses. I was confused about the use of a safety cable. At first I thought it was to keep the door from falling, but I have learned from your responses that it is to prevent injury from the release of a broken spring swinging through the air and injuring me. I have had enough personal injures that I now do not like them!

Several years ago my friend's wife was backing her car out of the garage when one of the garage door springs exploded and embedded a piece of spring in the passenger side font door panel. These were old spring before the safety cable through them. He bought replacement springs that had both a cable through them as well as some kind of Kevlar sock on them.
My BIL had a garage door torsion spring break in the cold weather a few winters ago and he wanted me to help fix it and I told him to call a professional as I didn't want to risk an injury.

I have a single spring at the top of the door on my doors. Not sure if that's the type your talking about or the ones with a spring on each side of the door with the cable and pulley on each spring.

Mine isn't Rocket Science to replace the spring, I've done all three of mine at one time or another, but you must be real careful when adding or releasing the tension. On mine I lock the door down and lock the rod the spring is on with a couple of pairs of vise grips. I have two pieces of 1/2 inch rods about a foot long that I use on the spring tension lock piece. BE REAL CAREFULL AND HAVE A TIGHT GIP ON THE RODS WHEN YOU SCREW THE TENSION RELEASE BOLTS OUT THAT LOCK THE MECHINSUM. Then slowly work the mechinsum in or out depending on weather your adding or taking off pressure. I tighten my spring about 8 turns to get my 9x8 doors open.

Just be care and I keep myself as far away from things as I'm working on it in case something goes wrong. I did have a spring break one time as I was adding tension but nothing happened, it stayed on the rod it mounted on.

I was tightening a rotational spring once and it got away from me. I recall getting bruised but not broken bones or severe tissue damage but it gave me a very healthy respect for the amount of power that is involved and how easily it can get away from you. I think I was using screw drivers to wind up a spring, dumb.

For the non-professional the issue in my mind is the lack of the correct tools, safety precautions, and procedures, and knowing how to deal with the "what if's".

My cousin had a tire rim blow up on him, something he had done a million times in his life. After many surgeries, no or minimal insurance, he still has a disfigured face.

Paul

I fix most everything around the farm and both houses, but I don't do garage door springs. Just had one redone in November. Guy came out, I had all the parts, he tensioned the spring. Wasn't sure how tight to make it until I pointed out the other door had the exact same setup so he could count the marks on the that spring and match it on the other one. Then he lubricated both doors and the noisy opener on the good door. Checked it all out, charged me $80 and went happily on his way. That's how he makes his living. I make mine doing other things. He can do it safely. MAYBE I can too but probably not. I was good with the deal.

Just replaced the springs on my garage door a couple weeks ago, the extension springs are no big deal to replace. Just do it with the door open so there is no tension on them when you do it. The instructions are in the package. Took me less than an hour to replace both springs and cables.

Garage door companies are notoriously closed-mouth about their business. They want to sell their product and service, not give advise.

Go online, you will find several websites that sell door hardware at reasonable prices, and are willing to answer questions. Most sites have formulas for determining which springs are needed.

Determining the correct springs is critical. You will need to know the weight or the door (bathroom scale under the door), and the height of the door.

Enter this information and any other they ask for in the formula and it will give a spring recommendation, as in wire size, spring diameter, and length or number of coils.

They can also supply compatible hardware.

One thing to keep in mind, the lift springs will only work as well as the rest of the door. Everything must be level! If the tracks are not level, even if the building is not, the door will not consistently operate properly. Keep everything a square and level as possible. It will pay off in the end!

I wouldn't screw with those rotational springs, had mine replaced a few years ago. I was watching the guys do it and was told I may want to get out of the line of fire. He said he's had one of his bars slip before and it went out in a parking lot, never did find it.

If you have the long tension springs, then be sure to run a cable thru it and fasten SECURELY at both ends. Years ago I heard a shotgun blast in the garage. Went to look and a broken end of a spring was imbedded in the far wall....no cable was in it to keep it from flying around at rapid speed.
The rotary springs are scary if you let a winding rod get away from you.

My repair man charged me $30 for the last replacement and labor.....a bargain.
LA in WI

Jim .... the safety cable must be something new, well at least to me. Couldn't a chunk of spring still fly loose from the cable if it were small enough? Maybe unlikely to happen? The sock sounds like a good solution.

I have worked on all types of garage doors, and if you understand them and are careful there is nothing dangerous. Yes, it's a good idea to have a safety cable through an extension spring, it might save some scratches on your vehicle. I was inquiring about a new spring once and a very nice lady told me to set the door down on a bathroom scales and take off all spring tension, then you know what its weight is. With the weight along with the height of the door they can select the proper spring.

The safety cable goes all the way through the spring and is securely fastened on both ends, should prevent anything from flying.