in the first few minutes of operation of my 95 Chevy 2500 ,the automatic transmission is slow to engage.its not slipping.I?m told it?s the seals in the transmission bypassing oil.i know there?s no miracle cure for this but what?s the best ?help?that I can pour in??its a 8600 gvw truck with 316,000 miles. Used fairly lightly.not sure exactly which transmission I have,any idea what a reman would cost?
- Thread starter rrman61
- Start date
Michael Soldan
Well-known Member
I have used a product called "Transmedic" I used it on a Camaro that would leak after it sat in winter storage. It expands rubber seals and lubes them. It has been five years and the car has not leaked since. We used this product in my friend's repair shop and had good success with it. It is available at Canadian Tire and I'm sure CARQUEST or NAPA would have it. You will only be out 5 or 6 dollars and it may fix you up. There will be lots of people say rebuild your tranny , but this stuff works !
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
I am guessing that your truck has the 4L80 transmission. Hard to tell in that vintage. They were in a "switchover" mode going from mechanical/hydraulic controls to mostly electronic/hydraulic controls.
The problem is most likely the converter is draining back into the transmission while it is parked. As suggested already, running the engine for a bit before putting it in gear should help some.
It is definitely NOT leaking or bypassing seals. If it were, your transmission would already be burned to a crisp as well as having a very harsh engagement when you put it in gear. This was proven to me in transmission training school. We deliberately caused seals to leak to see what the effect would be.
The problem is most likely the converter is draining back into the transmission while it is parked. As suggested already, running the engine for a bit before putting it in gear should help some.
It is definitely NOT leaking or bypassing seals. If it were, your transmission would already be burned to a crisp as well as having a very harsh engagement when you put it in gear. This was proven to me in transmission training school. We deliberately caused seals to leak to see what the effect would be.
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
Personally, I would not even bother to fix it. A good shifting transmission of that age will probably last longer than you want to keep the truck.
But, if you do want to disturb it, the problem is most likely in the valve body. The condition of the gaskets and check balls comes into play here. I have found that many GM transmissions use steel check balls that eventually pound their way through the separator plate. My gut feeling is that if you replace the separator plate, check balls, and gaskets, it will probably cure that problem. Not a guarantee, but that would be my most educated guess.
But, if you do want to disturb it, the problem is most likely in the valve body. The condition of the gaskets and check balls comes into play here. I have found that many GM transmissions use steel check balls that eventually pound their way through the separator plate. My gut feeling is that if you replace the separator plate, check balls, and gaskets, it will probably cure that problem. Not a guarantee, but that would be my most educated guess.
Oregon Tractor Jack
Member
Most likely a leaking torque converter seal. I have an 05 Dodge with a 48RE and it will do that same thing after it has been sitting for a while. Just start it up and put it in neutral for a few minutes as stated below. If that is the original tranny, then you really should have to complaints. That is a ton of miles.
OTJ
OTJ
I have a '87 Ford C-6 does the same thing. I added "Lube Gard" to mime and it did not help as much as desired. I just fire it up, let it run awhile and shift into reverse, then drive, back and forth a few times until I get a real feeling of engagement.
Then we go. I learned a long time ago, you are not going to save any money fixing it before it stops moving. So until it stops moving, I don' believe I will be fixing it.
Then we go. I learned a long time ago, you are not going to save any money fixing it before it stops moving. So until it stops moving, I don' believe I will be fixing it.
95 would be a 4L80E. First, and only, thing I would do is change the fluid and filter. 4L80E can have delayed cold engagement due to the filter being restricted, just as the TH400 on which it was based did. They can be very sensitive to filter restrictions, and have issues until the fluid thins slightly. I would change the fluid and filter, add Lucas ATF additive, and fill it with synthetic Dexron VI fluid. I would not recommend disturbing anything else on a high mile automatic.
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