Radial V Bias R1 Tires

Dean

Well-known Member
I'm considering a 90 PTO HP Kubota tractor for mowing duty. Tractor will be used with both mounted and BW mowers.

Tractor can be supplied with either 30" or 34" R1 tires , either bias ply or radials. The 30" tires are 18.4s, whereas the 34" tires are 16.9s. The radial tires are significantly more expensive.

Aside from cost, what are the advantages and disadvantages of bias vis a vis radial R1 tires.

Dean
 
I have a JD 4020 which is pretty much retired. I would like to trade it for something newer and bigger, but that's on the waiting list. It has radials on it, but if I were to keep it long enough to replace the tires, I would go back to bias.

Especially when doing something like mowing, you can ruin a radial just as fast as you can ruin a bias!
 
That's a good question.

I prefer looking in a book, but you can go online to tire manufacturers websites, and find all kinds of tire spec's to compare. "Flat plate" area, in other words, foot print. "Static loaded radius"- distance from the ground to the center of the axle.
 
Every stick in a tire costs more for radials than bias. If you were doing heavy tillage radials are worth it, for what you are doing I would seriously question that. As far as size I would go with the 34s as they will likely be cheaper to buy when needed.
 
Doesn't sound like enough tire for 90HP. Sounds like what I would want on 65-70.


For haying, no sense in buying radials.
 
Possibly, RG, but it's a Kubota and not particularly heavy.

I'm not a real farmer and do no tillage. Nor do I do hay. I plan to use the tractor for a 7' HP rotary cutter that I already own and a 12' or 15' BW mower that I plan to buy.

Aside from mowing, I will use the FEL with a grapple bucket to move brush, trees, etc., from time to time.

Regardless of tire type and size, I will not load them as I still repair and change all of my own tires.

Dean
 
Dean most that we sell for folks like you leave on bias 18.4 30s , Got where that is the most sold one. Most folks will not pay the difference for the radials/.. You are going to need either cast iron center rear wheels, or lots of weights if you choose not to fluid them. Don,t know that I have sold a tractor over 50hp without the rears fluid filled in years. One you are not going to puncture new tires and no big deal to pump it out. Sure will enhance the performance of the loader and tractor in general.
 
I'd go one step smaller even, 15.5x38's. Neighbor ran them on his turbo'd 4020, Firestone Deep Treads. Never ran duals on the tractor either. For running a little bush hog or disk mower or flail mower 15.5's will probably gain you a little ground clearance, knock down less grass/hay, and is plenty of tire.
We ran 15.5 GY Power-Torque tires on our non-turbo 4010, plenty of tire for fall fieldwork, but we ran duals all spring. Had GY Super-Torque 15.5's on our 450 Farmall too.
 
Thinks, jm.

The M9960ROPS that I may replace with a M5-111HSDC24 has 18.4R30s with cast centers and one weight on each side.

I always specify cast centers and all cast iron weights that I can add without adding to the overall width of the tractor.

I also have a couple of ballast boxes filled with bags of sand.

I cannot handle liquid ballast of any kind and have neither truck nor trailer.

Dean
 
I once owned a JD 730DWES with 15.5X38s, which I mounted/demounted myself. Long story, but I wish I still owned it.

15.5X38s are not available on the Kubota tractor that I am considering.

Dean
 
Sounds like who ever ordered the tractor in set it up about right. Might add another set of rears but you will love that tractor.
 
18.4 x 30s are much more common so replacing them at any time would be simple. I have found radials make a bigger difference in the smaller tractor traction and ride. So if the radials add $1000 in cost your going to spread that over how many years of use???? 10 or 15??? At the end of the first day on hard dry ground I know what I would want under me.
 
(quoted from post at 19:47:15 12/27/18) 18.4 x 30s are much more common so replacing them at any time would be simple. I have found radials make a bigger difference in the smaller tractor traction and ride. So if the radials add $1000 in cost your going to spread that over how many years of use???? 10 or 15??? At the end of the first day on hard dry ground I know what I would want under me.

thats what I was thinking.... as there are tons of 30's out there in 16.9 and 18.4's available,, also in more brands...but I have slept lately too.

Also,,, smaller rim and bigger tire means more liquid ballast cheap and fast, then add external as needed...... taller rim smaller tire means less ballast so you have to go external to weights sooner.
 
If it were mine I would go for the radials on a new tractor for better traction and ride and would go for the taller 34" tires. They both seem small for 90 PTO hp though.
 
I'd be putting on the 34's, as your cast center will be heavier than the 30. The tire will have more weight to it and higher for ground clearance.
 
I agree. a good air seat will cost you about the price difference of the radials. If you are mowing and have Black Locust or Mesquite like down here,
thorn punctures in radial sidewalls aren't repairable and are more susceptible to punctures.

Had 16.9 x 38s on a JD 4010 and 18.4 x 38s on JD 4020 and 4230, 70 and 100 PTO respectively. 38 rim vs 34 just a few inches more ground
clearance, but 38s were on "row crop" tractors anyway. Fatter tires would be less ground compaction. Larger tire, larger balloon, can be run at lower
pressure for softer ride, and adding weights would be a plus but more ground compaction.....how much traction do you need mowing anyway.......You
did say it was to be used for mowing.
 

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