Merry Christmas to all here! I got a new Weather Guard tool box for Christmas - the big one! So excited about it as I have never had one. I’m waiting to secure it down because I want to make it nicer and organize it before I just dump everything in it. Looking forward to see what all you guys come up with and can suggest!! Go!
- Thread starter RTR
- Start date
Billy Shafer
Well-known Member
I use to organize my service truck about ever six months. That is how long it took me to screw it up again.
Adirondack case guy
Well-known Member
After seeing the pictures of your truck and the surroundings, I don't think wrenches, hand cleaner, grease guns, big hammers, and pry bars would be suitable.
Loren
Loren
Olliejunkie
Well-known Member
I made j bolts for mine and used wing nuts. No drilling the bed that way.
RTR - Bought a new truck 49 weeks ago. Went from F250 regular cab 8 ft bed to a RAM 1500 Quad-Cab, the
shorter version 4-door with 6 ft 4 inch bed. So far NOBODY has sat in the rear seat. Did put a cooler in
the rear seat on Thanksgiving. Wish I had my 8 ft box back! I would use it much more than the rear seats.
SON has my old F250, first thing He did was install a WeatherGard box too. Now my 6 ft 4 inch box is
longer than his box. His 8 ft minus 27 inches is 5 ft 9 inches. He can slide stuff up to 8 inches tall
under the box that's 8 ft long. Bet my old S40 Volvo 4 door had almost as much room as your F150. It
would NOT work at all for what I use a truck for. I haul plywood, drywall, other dimension lumber, steel
sheet, plate, tubing, angle iron, big rolls of insulation. And large bulky loads of pruned tree branches.
shorter version 4-door with 6 ft 4 inch bed. So far NOBODY has sat in the rear seat. Did put a cooler in
the rear seat on Thanksgiving. Wish I had my 8 ft box back! I would use it much more than the rear seats.
SON has my old F250, first thing He did was install a WeatherGard box too. Now my 6 ft 4 inch box is
longer than his box. His 8 ft minus 27 inches is 5 ft 9 inches. He can slide stuff up to 8 inches tall
under the box that's 8 ft long. Bet my old S40 Volvo 4 door had almost as much room as your F150. It
would NOT work at all for what I use a truck for. I haul plywood, drywall, other dimension lumber, steel
sheet, plate, tubing, angle iron, big rolls of insulation. And large bulky loads of pruned tree branches.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
Don't remember exactly what I used, but I didn't want to drill holes in the bed rails, so I went down through the stake holes. Also placed a thin rubber strip between the bed and the tool box.
Determined
Well-known Member
Get yourself a set of booster cables and tangle them up into a big ball.
These go in the bottom of the box under everything else.
Next you will need a pack of 3 road flares, just get it over with and soak them in water first.
Put in a couple of rusty tow chains, the ones that are missing a hook.
A seized up jack all to keep the booster cables firmly in place.
Now find your cable style come a long, if the spring that holds the cog engaged is still on it then pull it off and throw it in the bottom of the box, this way you will at least have a chance of finding it when you need it.
A big fist full of rusty fence staples mixed in with a few cups of sprouting oats will create a nice spongy bottom to stop your hitch mounts from rattling around.
The box is also a handy place to store;
-Clevises that are missing pins.
-Broken ratchet straps.
-Pieces of rope just long enough to be too good to throw away but useless for anything else.
-You could dump in a shovel full of dirt and leaves but with a little patience they will appear by themselves.
Joking aside it is a good looking box and matches your truck well.
These go in the bottom of the box under everything else.
Next you will need a pack of 3 road flares, just get it over with and soak them in water first.
Put in a couple of rusty tow chains, the ones that are missing a hook.
A seized up jack all to keep the booster cables firmly in place.
Now find your cable style come a long, if the spring that holds the cog engaged is still on it then pull it off and throw it in the bottom of the box, this way you will at least have a chance of finding it when you need it.
A big fist full of rusty fence staples mixed in with a few cups of sprouting oats will create a nice spongy bottom to stop your hitch mounts from rattling around.
The box is also a handy place to store;
-Clevises that are missing pins.
-Broken ratchet straps.
-Pieces of rope just long enough to be too good to throw away but useless for anything else.
-You could dump in a shovel full of dirt and leaves but with a little patience they will appear by themselves.
Joking aside it is a good looking box and matches your truck well.
The box Came with a special hook fastener similar to a J bolt but a wider grip. Haven’t secured it yet because it has a rubber grommet for electrical and I might run a short extension cord in there for having a power supply for battery chargers or something. Haven’t decided yet. It is sitting on rubber pads and hasn’t moved around so it should be fine for a few days like it is.
1948CaseVAI
Well-known Member
What was the point of putting down the original poster's new gift? He is happy and I am happy for him.
I didn’t think he was. Yeah I’m excited to finally be able to carry tools with me and have an organized place to keep them. My post is for suggestions on how I can organize and some useful mods I can make to make the box even nicer. Once I fill it up with stuff it’ll never happen.
Crazy Horse
Well-known Member
Doc ..... I've been told that a standard cab truck with an 8' box is pretty much non-existent any more. You occasionally see the odd one around still. If you get the bigger cab with a long box on it, a lot of garages (like mine) won't begin to handle it for parking. I suspect that 2-wheel drive pickups are few and far between as well, everything seems to be 4x4 nowadays.
kcm.MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- NW Minnesota
Been a LOT of years since I've had such a toolbox, and I'll never need one again. Only extended cabs here, but no passengers -- means back seat is interior storage. Sure has made long trips nicer, not having to get outside to grab something.
That said, you might consider just how much will fit in that tool tray and, something that you WANT to have readily accessible but won't fit in the tray, you might consider using some sort of neodymium magnet setup to hold it under the other lid - like booster cables, if you use them a lot.
I always had separate tool boxes in mine to help with organization; one for wrenches, one for sockets, one for other - and each a different color. After that, I had no organization. Wrenches were dumped in their box, sockets dumped in theirs, etc. But at least I could grab a box in a hurry. ...If I tried doing that now, I'd probably put a shoulder out! :shock:
Merry Christmas.
That said, you might consider just how much will fit in that tool tray and, something that you WANT to have readily accessible but won't fit in the tray, you might consider using some sort of neodymium magnet setup to hold it under the other lid - like booster cables, if you use them a lot.
I always had separate tool boxes in mine to help with organization; one for wrenches, one for sockets, one for other - and each a different color. After that, I had no organization. Wrenches were dumped in their box, sockets dumped in theirs, etc. But at least I could grab a box in a hurry. ...If I tried doing that now, I'd probably put a shoulder out! :shock:
Merry Christmas.
Grandpa's Fords
Member
Determined, Hey were you looking my toolbox?
I learned they are not the best place for storing seed.
No matter how carefully I packed a tube of grease it almost always got out.
Ok....I’ve put together a couple of (bad) drawings showing my first idea. Thinking of using a thin shiny aluminum diamond plate for this. A few of my concerns are:
(a) I will attach the hinge to the boxed-in void area of the lid so no holes will protrude through the box…..what is best way to attach so it doesn’t work its way loose?
(b) Should I weld aluminum flat bar or angle around the diamond plate on the 3 outer side to strengthen and allow the foam to be “encased”?
(c) If this is do-able do you know anyone that does laser cutting? Price? If too expensive, it MIGHT work out cutting that logo with a cutting blade on a grinder.
Here is a rough idea of what I am talking about (plain reference pictures first, my drawings, & an example of tool foam at the end). Colors by no means are demonstrating what I am wanting with finished product, except for the IH logo. In these drawings, they are just for clarity. After looking at this, let me know if you have any questions. Dimensions of the rectangular recessed area in the lid are 69 inches long x 9 3/8 inches tall. I didn’t get a depth measurement.
(a) I will attach the hinge to the boxed-in void area of the lid so no holes will protrude through the box…..what is best way to attach so it doesn’t work its way loose?
(b) Should I weld aluminum flat bar or angle around the diamond plate on the 3 outer side to strengthen and allow the foam to be “encased”?
(c) If this is do-able do you know anyone that does laser cutting? Price? If too expensive, it MIGHT work out cutting that logo with a cutting blade on a grinder.
Here is a rough idea of what I am talking about (plain reference pictures first, my drawings, & an example of tool foam at the end). Colors by no means are demonstrating what I am wanting with finished product, except for the IH logo. In these drawings, they are just for clarity. After looking at this, let me know if you have any questions. Dimensions of the rectangular recessed area in the lid are 69 inches long x 9 3/8 inches tall. I didn’t get a depth measurement.
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