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Tractor Fluid Question

N

nh8260

Member
I need to get some 90 wt. gear oil for my Farmall Super A and Ford 8n, so NAPA has 90 wt. GL-1 mineral gear oil, Tractor Supply has 80-90 multi purpose GL-5 gear oil. What GL number oil do i need? Is mineral gear oil ok for older tractors?
 
do not use gl-5 in the ford .tractor supply has mineral oil GL-1 just got some on Sunday it says ford and mineral oil on the label
 
just went to shop and the jug says Ford tractor transmission fluid . part number 591550 dose not come up but they have it on the web site under the Ford trans. fluid 22.99 for two gal.this is the oil for the for the Ford
 
"NAPA has 90 wt. GL-1 mineral gear oil"

That's PERFECT!

Not that your "A" would probably ever know the difference.

As time and oils have progressed, GL5 (which is good for heavily loaded gears) (think high HP modern tractors) has additives that can be corrosive to "yellow metal" parts (brass or bronze thrust washers) used in the transmissions and differentials of certain older machines. (Some brands of GL5 are advertised as "yellow metal safe".)

Good 'ol GL1 is likely "better" than what your tractor left the factory with, and at 20-some HP it certainly doesn't need GL5.
 
I'll get the NAPA oil and get it changed if it ever warms up.

Also, on a 1949 8n ford, i read on here about filling the oil up to the bottom bolt hole on the side cover?? I don't remember the whole conversation but the person said to stop putting the oil in after it starts running out the bolt hole and not go by the amount stated in the manual??? I may not be correct in what i'm saying, any of you know about this?
 
(quoted from post at 02:38:26 11/27/18) I'll get the NAPA oil and get it changed if it ever warms up.

Also, on a 1949 8n ford, i read on here about filling the oil up to the bottom bolt hole on the side cover?? I don't remember the whole conversation but the person said to stop putting the oil in after it starts running out the bolt hole and not go by the amount stated in the manual??? I may not be correct in what i'm saying, any of you know about this?
Click to expand...

Filling it 'til oil runs out the bolt hole will get the oil level close to the "FULL" mark on the transmission dipstick, which is obviously where you want it to be.

(You.ve found the transmission dipstick, right?)
 
. Straight weight 50 or 60 is just as viscous as gear oil . It is yellow metal friendly and has excellent anti wear additives . Friendly to wet clutches and wet brakes .
 
(quoted from post at 15:49:48 11/27/18) . Straight weight 50 or 60 is just as viscous as gear oil . It is yellow metal friendly and has excellent anti wear additives . Friendly to wet clutches and wet brakes .
Click to expand...

I run older Fuller transmissions in my two large trucks. Fuller, spec'd 50wt on these transmissions. RTO910, and RTO913.
 

IIRC, the tech material gave very specific reasons for NOT using 90wt gear oil. Was a matter of shear, and a matter of oxidization. 50w motor oil can run at higher temps without oxidizing. Back when these old tranny's were built, the horsepower wasn't crazy stupid, and a lot of trucks didn't have transmission oil coolers, they weren't needed. So, they ran pretty hot.

Speaking of horsepower. When did it become mandatory that a truck had to have 5 bazillion horses? We got by with GEARS.
 
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