Hydraulic cylinder ?

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
The ends on my terramite's hydraulic cylinders are held in place by a wire slightly larger than #9 fence wire. My hydraulic shop doesn't sell new wire. They reuse old wire. Problem is the ends on the old wire breaks off where it makes a right angle to fit in the end piece.

Who sells new wire and what size would be next size larger than #9? Is wire size like electric wire, the smaller the number the bigger the diameter?
Thanks.
 
I get some from Hercules. Theyre in Florida. Called Marion wires. Other hyd supply companys have them too. Get most of the hyd supplys from texas based company.
 
Where in Florida? I have 2 sisters that live in Leesburg.
Or do you have a phone # I could call. I'll use a micrometer to measure the exact diameter of wire.
 
Baum Hydraulics in Omaha carries it in round and square cross section. It is on page A6 in the down loadable catalog. Comes in 5 pack and 12 inches long.
Baum Hydraulics
 
George,my Dig-It brand TLB,(Power King clone),which is about the size of the Terramite has the same thing holding the ends in their cylinders. I have had the ends break off and/or could not remove the wires to remove the cylinder end gland. Hydraulic shop gave up on the first one and said I would have to buy a new cylinder(~$400.00)so I did not have anything to lose. I put the cylinder in the vise with the rod extended and supported well. I then took a Porta-Band saw and got right in the center of the groove where the wire is and made a very,very light cut all the way around the cylinder staying on top of the wire groove. If you nick the wire it is no big deal. It took a couple of tries to get it deep enough, but after that I took it apart and gave it back to the hydraulic shop for them to repack it and then when they finished with it, I cut 3 pieces of 3/4" aluminum angle 6" long and hose clamped them to the cylinder barrel and the gland end with the wire groove. I shimmed the twp parts apart with very thin paper board the thickness of the saw blade and with the piston and seals pushed back in to cylinder barrel to keep the seal from getting hot I very carefully did a series of very short spot welds with my wire feed welder and .024 wire to the seam and when the barrel felt warm I let it cool for about 30 minutes or so depending on the ambient temperature. I continued this procedure till the end was completely welded back and after it cooled again I removed the aluminum angle and clamps, I then wound the wire back in the groove by turning the end gland with my home built spanner sized to fit the pin holes in the gland end. I coated the cleaned and polished end gland with never-seize compound to keep the aluminum end gland from corroding before reassembly. After it was welded and cool I took my 4 1/2" grinder with a sanding disk and polished the weld and then repainted it. I have done 4 of the cylinders on it this way and the first one done 6 years and still working fine.
Takes a little time this way, but beats buying a new cylinder for it.
 
So far I've been able to remove wires. A few times it was challenging. I cracked one cylinder and the replacement from terramite was close to $500 with shipping. It was a very special cylinder.

Other times I ordered aftermarket cylinders off internet from International Hydraulics. for around $125. Work just fine so far. Rebuild kit was about $25. They don't use wire, end is threaded on.

I have to rebuild this cylinder because a log hit the cylinder.
 

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