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Bearing Removal

J

Jeff NWOH

Member
Any particular trick to removing this type of bearing? It's mounted with a tapered adapter. We removed the lock nut and put a 3 jaw puller on the outer race. Pulled as hard as I thought we could and did some pounding on the puller also. I'd prefer not to ruin it as I'm sure it's spendy, but I need to get it off. It's about a 3" shaft if it matters.

I did a little looking on YouTube but didn't come up with much that applies to this situation.
cvphoto1872.jpg
 
Try starting the nut back on the threads but not against the bearing.

If you can find a spreader plate to put behind the bearing, all the better, but you can try the puller on the outer race. Put some pressure on the puller and hit the nut with a large drift, not so hard as to damage the threads, but try to push the taper sleeve back through the bearing.

Try to save the bearing, I think those are no longer available.
 
Used to deal with that kind of bearing a lot. We usually just took a grinder and cut them off, because we very seldom re-used a bearing. If the adapter sleeve is not against a shoulder another way that might work is to get a piece of pipe that fits closely over the shaft, cut it just a inch longer than necessary, and weld a plate on one end to strike. Put the nut on just past the end of the sleeve. you will probably need to use an 8 pound hammer and swing about as hard as you can. This may damage the bearing on the other end of the shaft if you don't do something to prevent it. Have you ever installed this kind of bearing? You need to push it up the taper until you reduce the internal clearance to the proper amount, using a feeler gauge. If you google it you might find some information. I have a card in my tool box with the clearance for all sizes of bearings.If you need new bearings google spherical roller bearings, and SKF has some videos about servicing.
 
I would just take a 4 1/2 grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the other part clear off. Then just cut the inner race until it is about through. Then take a blunt chisel an put it in the cut. It will break easily when hit with a hammer. This way you do not mar the shaft or adaptor.
 
If you've never used an air hammer to remove bearings, you (like me) will wonder how on earth you've ever gotten so far in life without it.

I've never met a bearing that didn't just pop off instantly with one. Works good on removing races too - just pop right out.

I can't imagine it won't work on that bearing but if for some reason it doesn't- just score it good with a cutoff wheel and crack it off with a chisel, that way you don't risk cutting into the shaft - but wear eye protection, that hard metal can shatter like glass.
 
I looked at your picture again and realized you may not have enough room to get behind that bearing with an air hammer chisel (I'd try a curved one) - if not - just put your puller back on and hit the shaft with the air hammer, with a blunt point. The vibration will very likely be enough to make it slide off.
 
place bearing on a vise or other metal surface and hit it with a hand sledge to bust of outer race and the use a cut of wheel to cut off inner race.
 
Unless those rollers are a lot better than they look in the picture, I don't think I'd re-use that bearing.
 
Near impossible to remove that style bearing without destroying it. What Russ said about mounting one is very important. In the box (you will end up with a new bearing) will be instructions for tightening the nut. Install it per the instructions as the internal clearance changes as the nut is tightened.
 
Russ, I didn't research it, just remember trying to find a taper sleeve bearing similar to that many years ago.

I could find pictures and numbers, but every source was obsolete.
 
What is the application? Does it require that exact bearing or will a more common one work for it? The exact match one will cost between $175 and $250 while one with similar specs (L44643/L44610 Taper Roller Wheel Bearings (cone+cup)) will be $12.95 plus shipping
VXB bearing
 
I have to remove those at work every now and then. The bearing isn't the problem, it's the sleeve.

I polish the shaft first, both sides. Spray it with wd or anything else thin and slick. Put the locking nut back on till it's flush with the end of the sleeve. I use a 1 1/2 in aluminum drift and a 3 lb sledge to drive the sleeve back alternating the impact point with each strike. A couple minutes and it will be off with no damage to either.

Since you have the bearing out of the housing you will need to use some kind of blocks to support it so it won't move as you drive the sleeve back. BTW, the bearing and sleeve are readily available together or separately.
 
You need the split puller which will push on the inner race and another puller adapts to the split puller to pull off the shaft The split puller has holes for the rods of the second puller. You don't want to bang on the outer race .
 
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