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Wagon bed

T

TDJD

Member
I?m building a wagon bed (8x14). It looks to big, so before I do the other wagon I would like to know what size wagons you have, and what size is good.
Thanks.
mvphoto24270.jpg
 
Hayrack, water hauler, grain box, where are we going with the project?

Dad made the hayracks 7 or 7.5 by 14 or 15, that seemed a nice size to work with behind an older NH baler, one person could stack a load, the rack was small enough to maneuver and get through tight areas and shed doors, could still pack 2 across with one lengthwise down the middle.

There are some monster 9x20 hayracks around and might be good for big round bales, but man toot took a couple kids to stack on those and then wouldn?t fit in the old buildings.......

Depends what you are trying to end up with.


Paul
 
In general our standard hay racks are 7'x14'. Our wagon that we always liked is 7.5'x18'. My dad worked at GM so he wanted to get as much hay on each wagon as possible in a timely manner. Shed space was tight so one wagon to tuck away till unloaded was better than two.
 
Mine are strictly hay wagons for square bales. I have 2 16ft, 1 19ft, and 3 20ft, plus 1 little 13ft for odd jobs.

Had a couple 14's that I made into larger wagons when they needed new beds. I don't want to waste time hooking and unhooking and moving...make hay when the sun shines.
 
7 x 14 will hold about 80 bales, which is probably enough weight for that old running gear. If I had a modern running gear with bigger tires, I would build the bed 7.5 by 16 for hay. then you could get 100 bales on it pretty easily.
 
Ours were always 8x16 so they held 100 bales. Mine is 8x20, but that can be a chore to drag bales all the way to the rear.
 
Mines 8x20 course the front 2 ft rarely sees hay. That much hay and hills gets a little tricky sometimes. Had a 6040 Kubota MF 120 baler and close to a full load of hay on a very dry summer and went on a ky hayride not fun
 
I have a 7 x 14, a 8 x 16, and a 8 x 24. I can tell you that the 8 x 16 is the perfect size for my operation. I usually get about 125 bales on that one which is just right, not too heavy to pull, easier to unload and maneuver, etc . The small one generally 100 bales and the big monster wagon can take well over 200.
 
My hay wagons were either about 6.5 feet or 7' and 16' long. Had one that was 18' and just too long a drag to load bales by hand. Even on the 6.5 foot wide you could stack 2 36" wide bales with one length wise with no problem. We went to 30" long bales because the 36" was just too big to handle any more. Then we put racks on these wagons when we got a baler with a thrower and went down to about a 26" bale for that. We also used same beds for small grain and ear corn. They would fit in buildings better than an 8' would have with 2 8' not going in driveway of the barn. I got one wagon after baling was over just used for storaging of parts for machinery I worked on. that was 8' wide and I threateded many a time to cut in down to a 7' but never got it done. If you are going to be on the road with it stay down to 7' so you can see traffic behind in mirrows of your truck while pulling it. Also a lot easier to see that traffic from your tractor seat. 7' is a lot safer as seeing goes.
 
We run 8x16, have one 18ft, both good size. Much bigger then the stacker(we usually have only one person on the wagon) has to step it up some(while keeping baler happily fed) for the first pile. We get 150 small squares on a 16 then 165 on a 18. More if we go up a layer or two. You have to pile right to the edge to get that, though.
a281158.jpg

This is a full load on a 16 from a few years back...filled all the way behind the baler.
 
We haul rounds, small squares and logs at times on ours also. 2 are 16'x8' and the newest one is 14.5 X 8'. It all depends on the terrain, size of tractors you have. I am in hilly SE Ohio and can drag around a loaded one with my 6410 2wd along with the baler no problem. We usually put on 5 layers and finish in the level with another layer for around 125 bales a load, sometime up to 150.
 
16 foot is a good size. I talked to a guy at the bridge crossing this year that told me he uses school bus frames and puts about 500 on per load. Pulls them with a 560 with MFWD on it. He added the front axle to it.
 
(quoted from post at 14:34:06 09/27/18) I hadn?t thought about it a lot. I probably will paint it.
Click to expand...

Don't paint it it won't last. If you want to treat it put on a PENETRATING sealer.
 
Looks fine to me. Nice calming couple of days project. You can always spray on and let soak into the wood some cheap Clean motor oil. Used motor oil is tooo blasted dirty. New cheap oil will soak in and looks nice. Lift the wagon almost sideways with your loader and spray the bottom too. One a year and that wagon will never rot.
a281161.jpg
 
?I don't see any aluminum flashing on the tops of your cross-
members.? What do you mean?
 
That is only for wagons that never see a shed roof in all kinds of weather, think it keeps sills from rotting where the floor is fastened to them. Just had to get rid of a bed for that that has had to set out for about the last 10 years but that bed I would guess was 80 years old.
 
(quoted from post at 19:58:43 09/27/18) Implement paint WILL last, the building paint that doesen't.
Click to expand...

Leroy, a few paint manufacturers would take serious issue with that statement, LOL.
 
(quoted from post at 18:42:01 09/27/18) ?I don't see any aluminum flashing on the tops of your cross-
members.? What do you mean?
Click to expand...

You staple aluminum flashing down onto the tops of your cross members before putting the deck down. Without it the tops of the cross members and the bottoms of the deck boards stay damp and rot for two weeks after every rain. I rebuilt one a few years ago. I was planning to replace just a few boards and one cross member until I started taking boards up and found how badly the undersides of the boards and tops of the cross-members were rotted. The aluminum was recommended on here a few years ago so that is what I did.
 
One I sold a couple of years ago was painted over 50 years before when it was built, actually built in mid 50's paint was still good. Sideboards from one I had to replace bed on paint is still good after more than 40 years. Meds I just built in last 10 years and used building paint the paint was bad after 3 years. That was at least a 15 year paint. The implement paint is an oil base and soaks in to the wood so it holds, the building paint just hooks to the surface and lets go.
 
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