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TO-20 Ferguson

T

TDJD

Member
Hi. My Grandfather has a TO-20 Ferguson (with the Z-120 engine). One of the exhaust valves quit working; it was going to be something like $500 to re-do the head. I found a TE-20 for sale (with the Z-120 engine), the head was off and was machined. Gave $250 for it (with the tractor). We had the head checked by a machine shop and they said it was good. So we got new gaskets and put it back together. I pored the antifreeze in and it ran out between the head and the block. So we took it back apart, got a new head gasket, sprayed it with copper spray this time, and put it back together. We started it up and it ran great! Fast forward a year and the oil looks like chocolate milk (we think it?s antifreeze). So we changed the oil and a week later chocolate milk again. So my question is: what can we do to fix it? It also seems to be running hotter (antifreeze is filled up)-haven?t checked the temperature yet. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Did you retorque the head nuts after you ran it for a bit when you installed the gasket last time? Sounds like you need to pull the head again. I would also pull the pan and verify there are no cracks in the block at the bottom of the sleeves. Also, make sure the top of the sleeves are not recessed into the block surface, they should be slightly above the deck surface. I don't remember the measurement and don't have my book here, but you should be able catch a fingernail on them. Check the block deck for flatness as well.

Dan
 
If you were my neighbor, I could give you $300 for it as is. . . .I could say to buy a Ford. 9N is close to your machine but with that 4 speed I might say an 8N. As for your milkshake, Red devil or KN block seal should work. Follow the directions exactly. Basically, Do another oil change with fresh oil and then,
Drain the engine coolant, remove stat, rinse out again. Clear water coming out. add contents of jug, fill with water, run engine until warm.
For this I would suggest a non contact temp gun and cardboard in front of rad. Normal temp is about 190 degrees to ensure all the metal gets expanded to size and that takes about 20/25 minutes. Shut off, cool off, remove cap, drain, rinse again until clear water comes out.
Remove stat housing and let dry at least 24 hours. Longer will not hurt and should only ensure a better job. Reinstall stat and refill with a very good quality antifreeze. Not the cheap junk. Run it and see what you get.
Should that fail, I will give you $250. I have done it twice and still driving one of them after 3 months with no problem
 
I wouldn't let him sell it for anything. This tractor tougher than any Ford I've seen, my Grandfather has a Ford 641 (30HP) the TO-20 could drag it around all day (in third gear)!
 
It's probably one of 2 problems.

Those blocks are prone to crack between the liner bores.

The other cause, and more likely, when the head was off the engine got turned and one or more of the cylinder liners pushed up, letting trash in the bottom of the water jacket get under the liner, also breaking the oring seal.

Once the liner rides up, it will not go back down all the way and will hold the head up from sealing around the edges and the adjoining cylinders. The liners will have to come out, the seat in the block cleaned, and new orings installed. Yeah, not fun...

You might try retorquing the head bolts, sometimes that will stop one from leaking. When retorquing, get the engine up to temperature, back each bolt off, one at a time just enough to feel it turn, then take it back to specified torque.

Then readjust the valves.
 
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