Tracter 12 volt conversion kit

Did you by any chance wire the ignition on the same circuit as the one going to actuate the starter so when you use the key or push button to activate the starter is the only time when the coil receives current?
 
Battery terminal on alternator to one side of amp gauge also wire to key switch. Other side of amp gauge to starter switch. Other side of key switch to coil
 
Wire from ammeter should go to same post on starter switch or solenoid with big cable from battery. If it is to side going to starter it will give your symptom as MN Valley Man explains
 
Runs now but amp gauge buried at 30 them settles to about 18-20 and coil gets hot and runs bad
 
Amp gauge goes that high due to you discharging the battery trying to get it to run. As for coil getting hot is it the 6 volt coil that was on it with no ballast resister or did you put on a true 12 volt coil that says on it no ballast resister needed?? If it is the 6 volt coil it will get hot and the points will get burned up and can also fry the coil
 
No longs a coil made wit ha built in resister there just wound different to work on 12 volts instead of 6 volts. So the coil says right on it no ballast resister needed RIGHT?? If it doesn't you may have a 6 volt coil depending on if the parts guy who gave it to you knew what he was doing. By the way a coil will get pretty hot and even with my welders hands I will not hold a coil long due to how hot they get
 
Check the Ohms of the coil in the tractor. With the terminals disconnected, there should be 3.5 to 4.5 ohms between the two small terminals. ALso check the charging voltage. If above 14.6 (like 15 volts) the new alternator is not regulating correctly. It should be 14.2 volts when running at 1/2 throttle, measured across the battery terminals. Jim
 

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