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sald

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I want to get a trailer to pull my 1940 Farmall A. It will be local no highways just secondary/tertiary roads. The tractor is not ballasted just air but has wheel weights in front and back. The manual says it weighs 2400 lbs. I drive a 2015 F150 with a V8 (385hp) I have put in after market brake system in it. I do not have a brake controller installed and do not want to spend the money to add one. I am looking at this trailer at Tractor Supply (5.5x10ft single axle, see specs below) which states a payload max of 2040 lbs. As an engineer I understand safety ratios and believe it would be fine for my purposes. Just wanted to see if anyone else has or is doing what I am proposing or seriously disagrees.

https://www.external_link.com/tsc/product/carry-on-trailer-5-1-2-ft-x-10-ft-open-wood-floor-utility-trailer?cm_vc=-10005

Specification Description
Coupler Size: 2 in.
Coupler Type: A-Frame
Empty Weight: 950 lb.
Floor Type: Wood
Gate/Ramp Width: 63 x 49in.
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating: 2,990 lb.
Number of Axles: 1
Outer Length: 168 in.
Outer Width: 83 in.
Payload Capacity: 2,040 lb.
Product Type: Wood Floor Trailer
Ramp Length: 4 ft.
Ramp Location: Back
Tilting Bed: No
Tire Diameter: 15 in.
Tire Weight Rating (ea.): 1,820 lb.
Type: Open
Application: Utility
Bed Length: 10 ft.
Bed Width: 5.5 ft.
Brand: Carry-On Trailer
Manufacturer Part Number 5.5X10GWPT
Untitled URL Link
 
I have a shop built trailer 10 foot with a 2 foot beaver tail that is much wider then the 5.5 that you have choose, mine will haul my farmall a but strapping or chaining is a challenge because of the length .

I believe this one would be a better choice as you will be able locate your load more precisely where it needs to be.
trailer
 
Look at the light angle iron frame vs. the channel frame on a heavier trailer

Take a front corner and shake it up and down. Notice the floppiness of the trailer

Take a look underneath. Not enough cross members for a tractor load

Imagine what the tail gate will look like the first time you try to load your tractor.

These are a nice handy trailer, but not for hauling a tractor.
 
Sald, where you located at?
I got a tandem axle trailer that I posted on Craigslist for sale last Friday (south Alabama) for $500, have had several low ball offers by phone, would let go for $400 as I?m tired of all the trade offers for it, I put a new 2? coupler and tongue jack on it before posting it...
 
Once had wood decking in the center, could easily be replaced, folks want stuff for nothing these day. It?s hauled a 135 Massey Ferguson for many miles in years past, built like a tank
a276209.jpg
 
You will want a 5000 pound trailer with brakes.

The one you are looking at is grossly undersized.
 
just for comparison sake... i used to haul a farmall A in the box of my 1974 ford 1/2 ton. also when i bought my W12 i hauled it home in the box of my new 1996 ford 1/2 ton 4x4.
 
Ok, understood. So... I really don't feel liked putting in a brake controller in my truck. It doesn't have a 7 way only 4 pin adapter. One reply indicated I would be ok without brakes on the trailer.
 
Your tractor is already at least 350 lbs. over the listed capacity of the trailer. And, that is only if it weights in at the low end of the range. Not meaning to be the YT-DOT here...BUT!
While you may get away with hauling your tractor around on it, there is the safety aspect to consider. Trailer is overloaded. Some other driver either pulls out in front of you or stops suddenly in front of you and >>KAPOW<< you collide. Insurance companies and lawyers will have a field day with you. Especially if anybody gets hurt. And, if it can be proved that you deliberately overloaded the trailer, you could find yourself in a big heap of trouble.

I would suggest that you get a suitably rated trailer, get your tractor weighed, and proceed with some level of caution. At some point, you might be glad you did.
 
As said, you need a heavier trailer. You may be able to have a surge brake installed which does not require a brake controller in the truck....I would check legality in your area first.Ben
 
Just a view from north of the border up Canada way.
Please take the advice of the fellows who recomend a tandom axel with brakes. I used to hall my IHC Farmall BN and little Genious # 8 C plow to matches and particularily shows with my B 1800 and B 2400 Volvo staion wagon &#12299;&#12299;&#12299;&#12299;WITH &#12298;&#12298;&#12298; electric brakes. It was the wisest decision I ever made. Just a side note,,,,, one day I was halling a 4.5 by 8 camper and ended up going through a RED light at a down town intersetion Due to road conditions HAD IT HAD BRAKES I WOULD NIT HAVE DONE SO.
With the trailor, tractor, & plow always able to come to a full easy stop. By the way the wagon had 4 wheel discs brakes and the same road poundage as the trailor, tractor, and plow.
""""Just a word to the wise"""""
Wm.
 
Used trailers are cheap, that tractor supply trash is cheap junk. You can pick up a good tandem axle 16 or 18 foot trailer for what you will pay for that single axle.
 
But that trailer weight is where you HAVE TO HAVE BRAKES BY LAW. And that break controler is not that expencive.
 
you don't think you need brakes till you need them, a brake controller is a lot cheaper then your pickup
 
I bought the next size up from that, handy little trailer, but I bent my tailgate driving too heavy things on it.
 
as far as brake controller and wiring I'm guessing it is plug and play for brake controller and wiring. My 2006 F-150 is, all wiring was under dash ready to be plugged in with right adapter harness and is wired to back of frame for 7 pin, unplug 4 wire harness and plug in 7, add a couple of fuses or a breaker in fuse box and it is good to go
 
No, not safe. MUST HAVE BRAKES !!! What is cheaper, putting in trailer brakes and controller, or someones life...maybe yours.
 
Trailers with a GVWR of 3,000 lbs or more require a brake system. I bet the trailer you're looking at with a 2,990 rating doesn't have brakes. You need a heavier trailer with brakes for the load you want to carry. If you don't want to spend the money to be legal and safe just leave your tractor at home.
 
There's a reason they list the trailer's gross weight rating at 2990 lbs - trailers over 3000 lbs are required by law to have brakes in most states. Some states have even lower un-braked trailer weight limits. The specification list doesn't say anything about brakes, most likely because it doesn't have them, so the brake controller you should be adding to your truck won't have anything to work with. With wheel weights front and rear your tractor is more like 3000 lbs so the combined trailer and cargo weight would be in the 4000 lbs neighborhood. That trailer would be great for ATV's and garden tractors but what you're considering is grossly exceeding its intended use.

Another problem would be balancing the tractor over a single axle on on such a short trailer. If you drive it on forwards you'd probably have negative tongue weight and if you back it on you'll be too heavy. A 10-ft deck just doesn't give much room to fine-tune the balance, even with a tractor the size of a Farmall A.
 
Those trailers are not to good for anything except maybe a golf cart. I know you don't want to spend anymore money than you have to but to me I would never buy a single axle trailer due to the un-reliable tracking behind your truck unles you want to drive 45mph or are on extremely level highways. There is a reason why u-haul puts 45mph signs on there small single axle trailers. you don't need a brake controller if your extremely careful but they will help you stop easier and definetly safer. I have hauled up to 9000 lbs without one but I really took it slow. Hauling a tractor can be dangerous. You need to weigh that in on your decision. Choice is yours and what ever you buy you will have to use it. don't know where you live but in my state you would have to buy a license with more weight on it. I believe my regular plate is 6000. anything over that I have to buy a larger amount of weight. 2400 tractor, 800 for that trailer and 4000 for your pick up would be over 7000. you might want to check that. don't really cost that much unless you get stopped and your over weight. might consider this. 2 axle trailer with 2500 lb axles would work great for what you want to do. 3500 would be better yet. Good luck which ever way you go.
 
Bite bullet and buy a tekonsha brake controller. They start under $100 and go up. I'm happy with my Primus IQ. If I have an open or short with brakes, it tells me.

My first trailer was a used 7k landscaping trailer. I soon learned that wasn't big enough, bent axles.
By the time you replace wood deck, tires, brakes and wiring on a used trailer, it's best to buy new.

Don't buy a lawn mower trailer to haul a tractor.

You may want to consider buying a dump trailer to haul your tractor. I know a guy who uses hid dump trailer to haul his Bobcat. Dump trailers are handy. I use mine to much, in 5 years I had to replace the tires.
Primus IQ
 
Have an accident and insurance discovers the trailer wasn't even rated for the load, they will wipe their hands of you on the spot. Plus where I live that would be easy pickings for the DOT.
 
I would spend the money and get a decent trailer. I own a single axle PJ 7712 which I ordered because I wanted the heavy duty drop axle. MY GVWR is 4999 lbs. I would not tow something that heavy without trailer brakes.
 
Brakes are not mentioned in the specs, and it sure looks like it doesn't have any. I was surprised at the price- for 1500 bucks, you can get a good used car trailer. And unless you have a helicopter to put the tractor on Mr. Dinky, your tailgate will be toast after one loading.
 
My trailer is a tandem axle 16" rated at 7000# with an empty weight of 1500# for a so called payload of 5500# but I have put my 2N Ford on it once and could never again will I use it for that. Rated for a load of 5500# but from actuall use I see it is not capable of safly hauling a load of over 3000# and your tractor and mine are both over that 3000# size. I had a slightly older trailer rated same 7000# and weighed 1750# for a payload of 5250# and that trailer handled the Ford fine but was overloaded with the JD B. That trailer was demolished when a Jeep did not slow for a stop sign and ran into the side of it at 50-55MPH.
 
The trailer is just to light by half for what you are hauling. Coupled with the fact its a single axle it would make hauling any load at the maximum carrying capacity a real handful when going down the road anywhere near highway speed. If you get it "rocking" you'll probably need some new underwear when you get it under control.

Any light tandem axle car trailer (with or without a braking axle) would be many times better than a single axle utility trailer.
 
Paid $1,300 for this trailer and it came with brakes and a 15 ton winch. I would keep looking and get the brake controller. It handles my A very nicely. Not sure the gate on the trailer your looking at will last long enough to unload.
a276242.jpg
 

I am looking at Craigslist and it seems the sellers think their trailers are worth more or the same as they payed for them new.
Ordered the factory brake controller and checked all wiring. I am going to just put it in.
 
Good move, now just get a heavy enough trailer to be safe. A good built tandam with 2 axles of 3500# rating is good, you dont need 5000 or 7000# rated axles. The thing is if they used enough steel in making trailer and did not skimp on it like they did on my last one. It was right price and avaible when mine got wrecked when the Jeep hit it and I needed one NOW, not waiting for delevery to a different dealer that was promised and never delievered. Did not realize it was as week as it is.
 
(quoted from post at 06:31:24 08/09/18) Good move, now just get a heavy enough trailer to be safe. A good built tandam with 2 axles of 3500# rating is good, you dont need 5000 or 7000# rated axles. The thing is if they used enough steel in making trailer and did not skimp on it like they did on my last one. It was right price and avaible when mine got wrecked when the Jeep hit it and I needed one NOW, not waiting for delevery to a different dealer that was promised and never delievered. Did not realize it was as week as it is.
Click to expand...

I disagree. Get the heaviest axles, heaviest tires and longest deck you can accomodate. You're guaranteed to overload the trailer a few times. Maybe your friend has a 730 diesel he wants you to haul home for him. Maybe you want to haul a skid steer for a project at home. Maybe you want to haul some topsoil home, or a skid of pavers, or a load of sand. 7000lb GVW trailer has a payload of 4500 or 5000 lbs. A 4500 lb load of river rock is gonna look pretty disappointing. AND check the tires. My first trailer had passenger car tires on it. Don't buy a trailer with crap tires!

I've upgraded my trailer 3 times. First was a 7000 lb 16 foot car hauler for $1200. Couldn't even haul my skid steer on it. Second was a 14,000 lb 18 foot trailer for $2600. I could barely haul my 4010 with it. Now I have a 25 foot 20,000lb gooseneck for $9300, new in 2015. This is overkill for what my original intent was, but I still find myself loading it right up to it's maximum. Two days ago, I hauled 150 bushel of rye in supersacks and my skid steer 2 hours north of me. 15,000 lbs made me a touch overloaded. I've hauled more than that in hay on short runs. Brakes are a MUST. If they don't work, I don't leave until they do. I paid extra for electric over hydraulic brakes.

My point is, figure the maximum you need then add a little. You'll still outgrow it. A couple hundred bucks extra for a better trailer is gonna be far cheaper than ruining a cheaper trailer and then buying what you should have in the first place.
 
You have it right! Good used trailers sell for close to new prices, much more than they are worth. Trailers in poor shape sell for around half of new price. It's often better to buy/custom order a new trailer that fits your needs.
 
If he follows your advise he will be looking for a different truck as soon as he hooks to it as the size you are saying to look for will make it that the present truck cannot haul even a small garden tractor as the trailer will be too heavy and thralie weight will max out the towing weight of his truck. Yoy have to consider what his truck is allowed to pull. Just get enough trailer to haul what you have and not overload trailer or truck. And let others figure out their own hauling. He has no reason to ever want to haul a tractor like that JD and if he wanted to his truck could not handle it so good excuse to be able to say no if somebody asks you to haul something for them.
 
I just want to get what is required and no more. I dont plan on using it for anything else. I am an IT guy. We don't do much hauling. :lol:
 
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