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core plug or expansion plug?

P

Pecosallis

Member
the camshaft plug at the rear of D-17 engine on my AC Model D motor grader was cracked and leaking oil bad! had a heck of a time taking it out and now installing the new one. Do you hit it pretty hard to set it in? seems like that is why the first one was cracked. do you need or should you put blue gasket maker before you install it? I used a large socket to set it in but it seems loose. The engine service manual does not explain..thanks for your help
a274448.jpg
 
That's called a "concave" style plug.

Install it with sealer if you like, it goes in rounded side out, then tap it down flat in the middle to expand it out.
 
Were it mine, and assuming it was fully seated as shown, I would grind the edge of the cup to let it seat about 1/16" deeper in the core hole. Then I would put hardening permatex #1, on the perimeter and use a 1/2 inch socket as a punch and make it flat. Jim
 
Jan ..... hard to follow what you mean. Does the plug you are installing not hit a lip or flange inside the block? I can't see how grinding the edge would make it seat deeper. I'm just looking at the diagram that someone else posted below and there appears to be a lip in the block in that diagram. Maybe I'm not reading something correctly.
 
Got to thinking, never seen one crack...

Are you sure it was a crack and not rubbed through by the end of the cam hitting it?

If the cam is hitting, there is a problem at the front, a thrust washer missing or the gear coming loose.
 
The image supplied by the original poster looks to have the cup of the plug slightly out of the hole. I would like to see it deeper in the hole. Were it mine! Jim
 

Pecos, I can't see from the pic whether it is a concave type or a cup type. It might help if you told.
 
OK, I think I get it. So you would want to grind off a bit of edge "thickness" to enable the plug to be deeper when installed. But either way, the plug is still seating flush with the flange or lip of the block (a certain depth from the block's surface). Could you do that grinding good enough that you'd be happy that it was done evenly around the circumference of the plug?
 
Is this anything like a welsh plug that is used in carburator galleries? They are aluminum and you give them a little wack with a socket to deform them and thus lock them in. Just guessing.
 
concave on one side convex on the other with DORMAN PRODUCTS and F32S, new one just says dorman and a new number. The concave side goes
toward the camshaft and sits inside the lip or recessed..I can place it in the hole and pull it back out using heavy duty tape. Yes the old
one was cracked I believed it was hit with too small a socket to make it flat. had a crack like a cross from the center almost to the edge
and a circle in the center. I will try with a large socket and increase in diameter till it is in there. Do I need to make sure it is flat?
NOTE this is also the second governor and camshaft gear I;ve had to replace on this engine. WHY i wonder? thanks guys
 
I use two ballpein hammers. Lay small ball against center of plug and whack it with the other hammer.
 
almost appears like it should go in a bit more. then once bottomed out need to hit the centre to get it to seat. it will be loose till it get smacked in the centre.
 
(quoted from post at 21:06:44 07/23/18) The concave side goes
toward the camshaft and sits inside the lip or recessed..I can place it in the hole and pull it back out using heavy duty tape.
Click to expand...

The water shedding side (convex) goes to the outside and the water holding side (concave) faces to the inside of head.
Then you polish up the inside perimeter of the hole till smooth and shiny like brand new.
Square it up in the hole and wack it in and flat like the diagram posted earlier.
 
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