Rotatory Cutter Over Load Clutch

I have an older Howse rotatory cutter with an overload clutch on it. I need to find out how to test and adjust it. This unit is old enough that Howse doesn't have any manuals or part available for them. Anyone have one like this?

OTJ
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Jack back those 4 nuts back off pretty loose , but the cutter in some taller grass and see if you can slip the clutch. Sometime the plates get stuck to the hub. After you slip it just a little begin to tighten down evenly on each nut. You want it just tight enough to not slip in taller grass then when you hit a stump or rock it should slip.
 
Mark the different plates with a dot of paint or a marker. Work the mower, should be some movement of marks, also if use is heavy, some heating of clutch. If no movement loosen the large nut next to gear box and use again, this should loosen up the clutch. Adjust the large nut to were the clutch will carry the load and still slip under impact or overload.
 
(quoted from post at 11:41:45 07/06/18) Jack back those 4 nuts back off pretty loose , but the cutter in some taller grass and see if you can slip the clutch. Sometime the plates get stuck to the hub. After you slip it just a little begin to tighten down evenly on each nut. You want it just tight enough to not slip in taller grass then when you hit a stump or rock it should slip.
have been wrong before & will be again, but today, I do not believe that those 4 nuts are the adjustment. One big nut.
 
Man you got that on the nose. Very much how a Gravely clutch is done. There are true settings but there is also the ,by the seat of your pants, mode. Personally I would take it apart and clean any rust out. When setting it up a little slipping is a good thing. Tells you to slow down a little. The Gravely has 6 spring loaded bolts with captive nuts. Tighten till fully tight. Then back off one complete turn. Might need to play around a little but pretty close. Just as long as you get some slip in really thick grass. Saves your gear box.
 
Good advice from all! I have been told that you need to loosen them every spring and slip them to make sure their not stuck, especially if it sits outside.
 
(quoted from post at 12:01:37 07/06/18)
(quoted from post at 11:41:45 07/06/18)
have been wrong before & will be again, but today, I do not believe that those 4 nuts are the adjustment. One big nut.

Ditto large nut is the slip clutch adjustment nut. Loosen big nut off until clutch slips then tighten big nut just enough for clutch to hold while cutting.
 
Always mark the adjustment nut before turning it. That way you know how much you moved it and can make minor adjustments later if needed.
 
The manual on my old Ford 901 cutter states to tighten the clutch until the belleville spring washers are flattened out, then back off adjustment nut one turn and tighten the set screw on the adjustment nut.

I'm not sure if the "one turn" is standard procedure for all clutches with belleville springs or not. Might give it a try. If the clutch is getting warm to the touch, it is slipping.
 
The four bolts are not any type of adjustment. They just hold the yoke to the clutch. The large nut must be the adjustment as already stated. I tried to move it, but it is jammed on there tight. I will see if I can get a 24" pipe wrench and try again.

OTJ
 
(quoted from post at 22:55:18 07/06/18) Wouldn?t waste my time or the skin on my hands. Just measure the u joint and gear box shaft and go buy a new one
ith that attitude, why waste time and money changing it and just run it as is??!!!
 
Back off the nut counting your turns as you loosen it, slip the clutch tighten back to same spot, run it a while and take an infrared thermometer with you. If it is slipping and gets hot tighten it a bit more. You may want to tighten it a turn or two loose and tighten as needed than you know your adjustment is correct.
 

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