Hay wagon build opinions / advice

gears · Jun 29, 2018

So I picked up a scrap set of running gear and thought I'd build a wagon for hauling wood behind my 9n and wanted some opinions to how I'm thinking of building it. (it'll also double as a build table for ATVs and motorcycles)

Flat bed will be 10' (8' wheelbase) by 68" (that's how long the pile of 2x6s I have is).

So I'm thinking two 2x10x10 runners from axle to axle, including overhang and putting the 68" planks across the deck.

Use decking screws to hold it together.

Is this sound thinking or am I going to create a problem?

gears · Jun 29, 2018

Also have to cut down the frankensteined extended tounge.

Crazy Horse · Jun 29, 2018

So, what's the span between the 2x10's'. Might be too big of a span for the 2x6's to not sag. Another 2x10 down the middle wouldn't hurt
for sure.

DPittman · Jun 29, 2018

The only thing I would do different would be the runners. I'd use 4x10 instead of 2x10, not only for strength but durability also. Other than that
sounds like you got it. DP

Ken Macfarlane · Jun 29, 2018

2x material spans perfectly just need to tie edges. All our
wagons built this way.

MurrayE · Jun 29, 2018

Good morning, your picture of the wagon posted is identical to one that was given to me last year. The wheels are a little different and look nicer. The wagon given to me has 16" wheels (5 hole)fairly large center's. I believe the wagon might have been sold by the T'Eaton Company in Canada. Thanks, Murray

fixerupper · Jun 29, 2018

I highly recommend using something stronger then decking screws. Decking screws work fine for your stationary house deck but they will be snapping from the flexing on your trailer. Have you seen a cabinet screw? It's a screw that's like a decking screw but has a big flat washer head and can come in larger diameters. You can get cabinet screws in sizes like #12 or even 1/4", much better for your application. Cabinet screws will cost more but in the long run are well worth it.

Duner Wi · Jun 29, 2018

I have built hay wagon pretty much like you propose. I think I would run a couple of 2X10 between your stringer to keep them vertical. I aways use 4 inch wide. 2 inch might lay over under certain conditions.

Adirondack case guy · Jun 29, 2018

Make sure that you find a piece of pipe to slide into the front half of reach and extent through the rear section of the running gear, Yours is missing in the pic.
Personally, I build wood haulers using the rear half of running gears. A single axle cart is much easier to maneuver in the woods and a 10' bed works good.
What you are planning will work, but as others said, I would double up on the width of the stringers.
Loren

Bret4207 · Jun 29, 2018

I use doubled 2x10 treated for the stringers, construction screws and glue (Titebond/Liquid Nails construction adhesive type) too. You'll need something between the stringers over the axles to keep them upright. The bolts to the standards aren't enough. There are galvanized angle plates you can get that do a good job securing a hunks 2x10 between them. I suggest over building. The stress on these wagons is much greater than we give it credit for.

Michael Soldan · Jun 29, 2018

I have built 5 hay racks as we call them doing the same thing you did, only difference is I sandwiched 3/4 plywood between the 2x10's with
lots of construction glue and 1/4" bolts through to form a pretty solid stringer that easily carried 130 squares of hay. We never bolt hay
racks or hopper wagons to the running gear, we use short pieces of chain so the stringers can flex when going over something rough

showcrop · Jun 29, 2018

(quoted from post at 04:59:55 06/29/18) So I picked up a scrap set of running gear and thought I'd build a wagon for hauling wood behind my 9n and wanted some opinions to how I'm thinking of building it. (it'll also double as a build table for ATVs and motorcycles)

Flat bed will be 10' (8' wheelbase) by 68" (that's how long the pile of 2x6s I have is).

So I'm thinking two 2x10x10 runners from axle to axle, including overhang and putting the 68" planks across the deck.

Use decking screws to hold it together.

Is this sound thinking or am I going to create a problem?

need more information. In order to be on the same page your axle to axle "runners" are usually called stringers. I agree with the others that 2x10 is way too light. Another major factor is what species of wood are you using? It makes a big difference. Laminating like Michael and Bret suggested can I've you a lot of strength, but be sure to use plenty of glue so that not a drop of water can get between. Making a trailer instead of wagon like ACG suggested would be good idea, because then you will have some weight on your drive wheels. You won't pull much in the woods behind a 9N. without a lot of added weight.

gears · Jun 29, 2018

I was wondering if I needed to replace / extend that center support. The hubs were 5 lug implement but rusted so bad I'd have to tube them. I machined up the 6 lug plates and welded them onto the hub snouts to fit my old Dakota rims to it.

I was hoping to buy as little as possible, I have these 4x4s and a bucket of hot dip 3" spikes or a bunch of #8 deck screws.... Hadn't thought of chaining it to the gear, not a bad idea. The only on-road will be a hay ride around the neighborhood.

gears · Jun 29, 2018

I don't imagine it's going to see much weight, figure I'll have the boys gather the split wood from my piles, less thas 1 cord at a time (not nearly as much as Loren harvests

probably pulling it behind a quad versus the 9n. If it's too big I could always hook it to the 3400.

Mostly going to be used as a work table as I'm tired of crawling on the ground working on the kids quads (hence the 4 wheel versus cart).

gears · Jun 29, 2018

Oh yeah, that lumber pictured is untreated pine. Slather it with sealer once its built (after it dries from sitting on the ground in the woods). If I buy anything it'll be treated.

Super H Mike · Jun 29, 2018

I would do 3 or 4 of the 2x10s for the stringers, you can run a piece of tin over the tops and under the cross pieces to shed water. Make sure you have enough tire clearance if you are going to put the 2x6s crossways over the stringers, if not you can run 4x4 or such cross pieces and then run the deck boards length wise. I like my decking to run length wise anyway. Don't use deck screws as they snap off, use nails.

jon f mn · Jun 29, 2018

I think a lot are forgetting your
wagon is only 6'x10', not much over
1/2 a regular wagon. Your original
plan is enough for that.

DRussell · Jun 29, 2018

Those 4x4s won't allow the top boards to clear the tires. Your 2x10s are plenty for stringers. Bolt them to the support on the back x and you'll be fine.

WI Dan · Jun 29, 2018

(quoted from post at 10:21:08 06/29/18) never bolt hay
racks or hopper wagons to the running gear, we use short pieces of chain so the stringers can flex when going over something rough

I second this. We chained one corner. The other three could flex when crossing waterways, ditches, transitions. The whole deck I've seen flex as much as 10".
For this same reason, we used heavy nails instead of screws.

gears · Jun 29, 2018

thanks guys.

Those 4x4s are just lying in place, you should see how the deck looks now that the kids have helped!

I think I'll block the 4x4s up, bolt them as stringers to the gear uprights, extend the center pole, shorten the 7' tongue, and use the galvanized nails to hold things in place.

Hay wagon build opinions / advice

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