John Deere 318 engine removal

elijahearnestfarmall · Jun 26, 2018

So recently the starter on my 318 went bad and needs replaced. I’ve removed several pieces from the machine in order to access the engine and have taken off the front two bolts holding the engine to the frame. (Those alone took an hour to get off) after some evaluation, the two rear engine mount bolts are nowhere to be seen. I decided that if the flywheel shroud was removed, it would be easier to see the back of the engine. But the bolts holding the shroud are nearly impossible to access
Any info and help is greatly appreciated in advance!
Thanks, Elijah.

JD Seller · Jun 26, 2018

You need to remove the entire engine and the cradle in one piece. So take the bolts out that go through the rubber mounts not the bolts holding the motor to the cradle. There are four bolts two front and two rear. You will have to unbolt the drive shaft too. It helps to remove the batter and battery box an then you can access the back better. The engine shroud stays with the motor and does not need to come off for any reason the change the starter. The starter is tucked in side the frame on the left hand side.

To just change the starter I usually just removed the four bolts from the mounts. usually took the battery and box out. Then just tilt the motor towards the right hand side and you can see the starter. Using the right length extensions and a swivel you can remove the starter mounting bolts. There is no need for the motor to come clear out just for the starter. Usually took me less than two hours to completely change one out.

elijahearnestfarmall · Jun 27, 2018

Ya my grandfather and I were looking at it and thought that tilting it would be easier than taking the whole engine out. If we’re going to tilt it, do we still need to disconnect the drive shaft?

Also, the roadblock holding me back is that I can’t even see, let alone, get a wrench to the rear bolts to get them off. What would be the next step there?
Thanks @deere seller!

Cliff Nelson · Jun 27, 2018

The rear bolts are threaded into the oil pan from the bottom. Look up from under the tractor and you can see them. They are actually easier than the front ones to remove. I think you can remove the starter by tipping the engine to the side but be careful to not slide it forward letting the rear of the driveshaft slide off. I have the starter out of one right now but had to remove the engine as it needs an oil pan also. I'd like to talk to the person who designed the frame around thee starter like that.

elijahearnestfarmall · Jun 27, 2018

Thanks for the info! I’ll let you know how it turns out. Hopefully I can get it done soon so I don’t have to keep push mowing! :lol:

504 · Jun 27, 2018

Cliff it is just a guess(JD will know) I think that frame started out as a 12 hp or a 14hp. I know my 322 is the same frame, and the diesel starter is pretty easy to get to.

Bob · Jun 28, 2018

(quoted from post at 22:07:49 06/26/18) You need to remove the entire engine and the cradle in one piece. So take the bolts out that go through the rubber mounts not the bolts holding the motor to the cradle. There are four bolts two front and two rear. You will have to unbolt the drive shaft too. It helps to remove the batter and battery box an then you can access the back better. The engine shroud stays with the motor and does not need to come off for any reason the change the starter. The starter is tucked in side the frame on the left hand side.

To just change the starter I usually just removed the four bolts from the mounts. usually took the battery and box out. Then just tilt the motor towards the right hand side and you can see the starter. Using the right length extensions and a swivel you can remove the starter mounting bolts. There is no need for the motor to come clear out just for the starter. Usually took me less than two hours to completely change one out.

"Seller", IMHO, you are thinking of another model of a GREEN LGT???

IIRC, there's no "cradle" or "rubber mounts" between the engine and frame of a "318".

elijahearnestfarmall · Jun 28, 2018

So I took the bolts off that you mentioned under the oil pan, and went to tilt the engine to put a block of wood under it. And the piece of pot metal that has a bolt run through it to mount the engine to the frame, is cracked....

So does this mean a complete engine swap?!?! Can I just finish with the starter and continue to use it with 3 bolts? I know I can’t weld pot metal so that isn’t an option.
Thanks for the help guys.
I’ll include a picture of it

elijahearnestfarmall · Jun 28, 2018

JD Seller · Jun 30, 2018

Bob I forgot the Onan powered 300 series did not use the rubber isolators. Still he just needs to remove the mounting bolts and tilt it up.

JD Seller · Jun 30, 2018

(quoted from post at 09:49:31 06/28/18) So I took the bolts off that you mentioned under the oil pan, and went to tilt the engine to put a block of wood under it. And the piece of pot metal that has a bolt run through it to mount the engine to the frame, is cracked....

So does this mean a complete engine swap?!?! Can I just finish with the starter and continue to use it with 3 bolts? I know I can’t weld pot metal so that isn’t an option.
Thanks for the help guys.
I’ll include a picture of it

What your seeing is one of the ears is broken off the oil pan. This is aluminum. So it can be welded with the correct machine. I would remove the pan and have it fixed before you break more of the ears off. Also a used pan off Ebay should not be that high of price.

John Deere 318 engine removal

elijahearnestfarmall

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JD Seller

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elijahearnestfarmall

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Cliff Nelson

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elijahearnestfarmall

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504

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Bob

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elijahearnestfarmall

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JD Seller

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JD Seller

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