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FARMALL H Carb

J

jcronk

Member
Been a while since checking in. Since then a few things have happened on the project with the grandson. We have rebuilt the starter motor, the generator, the water pump, the governor, the distributor and have stripped off "almost" all of the paint. The only rebuild left is the carb. It has been dismantled, completely cleaned, the castings painted and a carb kit purchased. Got a question on removing the check-ball cover. Is there a means to remove that cover without damage or is it just pry and toss. The kit does have all necessary replacement parts.

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I assume you mean the drip cover? Use a small punch inserted into the hole INSIDE the carburetor, and just drive it out. Usually it can be used again. If not, you should be able to get the proper sized plug from any auto parts store and drill a hole in it. There is a felt filter inside that hole. A new one can be made from felt door weatherstripping, or just cut a strip from an old T shirt, roll it into a cylinder, and shove it in.
 
Now I know the proper name. Thanks. I do see the hole to insert a punch. Gave it a couple hits but it must be rust welded in place, so sprayed with penetrating oil and will wait a while to try again. Appreciate your assistance. Thing about teaching the grandson a few things is this old guy keeps learning as well. Cheers, Jack
 
(quoted from post at 08:14:11 06/01/18) Ok punched out undamaged. Thanks again.
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If it is not a real tight fit when you put it back in, don't be afraid to use a center punch and "stake it" around the perimeter.
 
OK Next question

How much difference does it make to use the new parts versus the old parts in this pic.

The holes are quite a bit smaller in the new part and wondering about the stamp of 9 degrees on the new and 11 degrees on the old.
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Another thing, the new part has two flat edges and old is full circle. Make any difference? Thanks, Jack
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Someone has drilled out the holes in the old fuel metering stem, probably in an attempt to get more power. The new stem will be be more efficient and still deliver all the fuel that an H can use.

The throttle plate is specific to each individual carburetor. Use the old plate. The new plate will not fit properly. If I remember right, the side with the number goes up. The edges are tapered to give a better fit.
 
Coming to the end of the carb project. The kit has a new bushing for the starting shutter shaft and a new idle metering jet and an unknown felt tube. How does one remove the bushing (and it does need to be replaced as the shaft has a lot of play in it) The idle metering jet will be a pain. It does look like someone attempted to remove it in the long distant past. Don't want to break it on removal. Any suggestions on removal? Any thoughts on the felt tube? Thanks again for all the assistance.

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The idle metering jet usually just likes to break off or refuse to move. Best way I've found to remove it is to heat it up with a small propane torch, let it cool, and then usually it will come out easily. The other option is to just leave it alone, but run a small, torch tip cleaner down through it, and follow up with aerosol carb cleaner.

Even if using the correct, hollow ground screwdriver, that idle metering jet will get messed up.

That hollow felt tube is supposed to be a dust seal for the choke shaft. You MIGHT get a piece of it in there.
 
(quoted from post at 06:55:10 06/02/18)
The idle metering jet usually just likes to break off or refuse to move. Best way I've found to remove it is to heat it up with a small propane torch, let it cool, and then usually it will come out easily. The other option is to just leave it alone, but run a small, torch tip cleaner down through it, and follow up with aerosol carb cleaner.

Even if using the correct, hollow ground screwdriver, that idle metering jet will get messed up.

That hollow felt tube is supposed to be a dust seal for the choke shaft. You MIGHT get a piece of it in there.
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hanks. I suppose any felt that might become a dust seal could take up the play between bushing and shaft. I would like to get the old jet out. With no slot left my only thought is a small needle nose pliers. My fear is breaking it and causing even more of an issue. Don’t think I have a small enough easy-out for that. We’ll see what happens. Will give it some penetrating oil and some time and a little warmth from the torch first. Fingers crossed. Best regards, Jack

PS. Out of curiosity, how would the choke shaft bushing be removed?
 

Do the heat trick on that idle jet. If it works like it usually does for me, what little slot is left will be enough.

Also, be advised that the NEW idle jet may not be threaded properly, and you will fight with it trying to screw it in.
 
(quoted from post at 09:21:09 06/02/18)
Do the heat trick on that idle jet. If it works like it usually does for me, what little slot is left will be enough.

Also, be advised that the NEW idle jet may not be threaded properly, and you will fight with it trying to screw it in.
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ll sorts of good news this morning. There is a bit of the slot left on just one side so can’t get enough purchase to twist. But it is all good fun regardless. Cheers Jack
 

I have rebuilt several Farmall H carburetors. A few of them were derelicts from a fence row and quite nasty, but the only carburetors I ever had to give up on were those that had been previously "worked" on.

I also learned that more often than not, the old, original parts quite often are better than the new parts.
 
Yeah, this one has been opened before. Current owners picked it up in the 1960's. It had been given a quick spray of red paint to make it look pretty. I have encountered a number of "fixes" that do make your head shake. They have all been overcome and the carb is the last mini-project of the overall project. Tractor hasn't seen use for years. Owner says he has always had troubles with the carb and the starter. But it did have shiny paint for a while. As for old versus new, the old always seems more substantial. I would have preferred to keep old choke but the shaft is worn and that along with the worn bushing makes it looser than I would like. The old choke plate is anchored to the shaft in a superior fashion to the new set up. Also, the old throttle plate is more solid than the new. Anyway, the idle jet must really be in there. Heat and penetrating oil and small needle nose pliers have not budged it. I'm looking at getting a set of small screw extractors in case I have a similar problem to the future. A guy could always buy a new carb but that's no fun. Cheers, Jack
 
(quoted from post at 11:03:46 06/02/18) Yeah, this one has been opened before. Current owners picked it up in the 1960's. It had been given a quick spray of red paint to make it look pretty. I have encountered a number of "fixes" that do make your head shake. They have all been overcome and the carb is the last mini-project of the overall project. Tractor hasn't seen use for years. Owner says he has always had troubles with the carb and the starter. But it did have shiny paint for a while. As for old versus new, the old always seems more substantial. I would have preferred to keep old choke but the shaft is worn and that along with the worn bushing makes it looser than I would like. The old choke plate is anchored to the shaft in a superior fashion to the new set up. Also, the old throttle plate is more solid than the new. Anyway, the idle jet must really be in there. Heat and penetrating oil and small needle nose pliers have not budged it. I'm looking at getting a set of small screw extractors in case I have a similar problem to the future. A guy could always buy a new carb but that's no fun. Cheers, Jack
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I have drilled out many of those idle metering jets, and then retapped the hole. The drill size and tap size escape me right now.
 
well that’s where I’m at now. I thought I was winning with the needle nose but of course ended up twisting the jet off not out. Next a mini screw driver blade tapped into the remaining portion of the jet felt like it too was twisting out the remaining stem but not the case. Drilled out the remains and now have to find a tap this small. The casting threads are untouched but are filled with jet brass. Will win. Buying a carb could never compete with this amount of entertainment Cheers Jack
 
(quoted from post at 06:00:28 06/03/18) well that’s where I’m at now. I thought I was winning with the needle nose but of course ended up twisting the jet off not out. Next a mini screw driver blade tapped into the remaining portion of the jet felt like it too was twisting out the remaining stem but not the case. Drilled out the remains and now have to find a tap this small. The casting threads are untouched but are filled with jet brass. Will win. Buying a carb could never compete with this amount of entertainment Cheers Jack
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I just went to the shop and found the tap. It is a 4x40. I got it at NAPA.
 
(quoted from post at 15:06:36 06/03/18)
(quoted from post at 10:02:55 06/03/18) Thanks. Saves a search. Off to NAPA
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ada 3/32 drill bit followed by 4-40NC tap did the trick
17686.jpg
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Ready to join together. Everything works as it should. I opted to forget about the choke shaft bushing. About 1/2 of the supplied felt shaft dust seal was used. Not a prayer to use the whole thing. So it goes to the farm next trip. Thanks again for all the help. Ready to take on another now and spend less than 3 days fiddling. But if one doesn’t fiddle from time to time there would be no music. Cheers Jack
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