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1937 IH W-30 valves....

B

banjoman09

Well-known Member
My tractor is running...yeah...but..I put a post on "Farmall" stating it will not start by hand cranking- just pulling. This is what I know; timing is correct ; carburater is new ; when it runs it is "laboring" or not smooth. So - I pulled the valve cover ; some were set incorrectly. My main issue is No 4 valve(from the front) is stuck- apparently. The valve stem is about 3/8" down from the tappet and the spring looks compressed...how do I free this up? Thanks.
 
Turn the engine so no pressure is on the valve. Try to pry the spring up gently. Soak down the valve stem with penetrating oil. Give the valve stem some gentle tapping to cause a slight vibration to get the penetrating oil moving around it good. Do this over a period of days. If no luck you may need to remove the valve to inspect the stem and guide. Most of the time it's just baked on oil that takes up the clearance between the valve stem and guide. If you get it free drain the engine oil and keep it changed on a regular basis.
 
My W30 will sometimes have a valve stuck from sitting over the winter. I've been lucky a tap on it with a block of wood and a hammer has freed it. I also had some on mine when I first got it running bent. If they are bent they stick just enough to not spring back up.
 
Putting PB Blaster on the stem where it protrudes from the guide. Move the rocker to the side, or remove the entire rocker assembly. Prying up on the retainer by putting long flat screwdrivers between the spring coils on opposite sides will be most effective. Find metal objects (like sockets) that will allow them to provide a fulcrum. With a helper, put moderate upward pressure on the valve with the screwdrivers while tapping gently on the upper tip of the valve with a plastic hammer. Once free apply more PB, and using the rocker, push the valve up and down several times to assure it is free. Be patient, the time you spend prepping these motions will be paid back in not having to remove the head. Jim
 
Jim...thanks. Ill get some PB - haven't heard of it. I did get it to "pop up" with 2 heal bars- thanks. I had it running only 2 or 3 minutes yesterday and doesn't look like much- if any oil was in the head area......pretty dry. May have an oil problem. Its a strange set-up anyway- has some kind of "cloth or pad" above the rocker shaft....not a good deal but must have worked. Thanks again!
 
Just came back in - tractor running good...my mistake. I installed a new "intake/exhaust manifold" last winter; I didnt notice til now that there is a hole on the outside of this manifold- i/8" pipe..that was open- thus the reason its not pulling gas up to the engine. Installed plug- starts on second crank! Wow....how simple...but now I did let it run a minute without valve cover and see no oil coming out of rockers or push tubes...now what? I did have the pan off this winter and cleaned it out and new oil...Thanks for the help.
 

Look at the manual...you have to lubricate the top end of these engines with an oil can before you start them, the oil soaks the felt & it drips onto the rockers. I find that lubricating with a 50/50 mix of regular oil and marvel mystery oil keeps valves from sticking.
 
I bought a new manual when I bought the tractor - I have been looking for my manual for two days.... I can do that; I assume the
pad comes off the top with the three nuts...it is quite dirty so maybe I will clean it with gas and then install it and pour oil
on it- but doesn't it get oil thru the engine somehow? Thanks for this.
 

On the top of the valve cover, there should be 2 short round tubes with spring loaded covers. You squirt the oil in them, and it soaks the felt below, inside the cover.
 
I bought this tractor last fall- just trying to get it all done...and I know nothing about them. I did go look as I had not
noticed that on the cover; apparently someone took them off and welded the wholes shut - you can see where they were at one time.
If thats how this oils - I better look for another cover. Thanks.
 
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