Carb needle seat stuck, need help

I have the carb apart on one of the Oliver 550's. I'm trying to get the needle seat out without much luck. I had to weld on the edge of my biggest screw driver and grind it down to get it wide enough to catch both slots, but it won't budge and the edges of the slot in the brass seat are starting to tear out. I think there is still enough to get it out if I could get it to start turning. Not enough room to get on the outside with a vise grip. I have a electric heat gun, dare I heat the brass to try to get it loose?? Any sure fire suggestions?? I would leave it in there and use it as is before ruining it. Any help appreciated, Chris

You might try a propane plumbers torch, for sure heat is the solution. Not the high-heat plumbers torch, just the regular blue bottle propane. One bit of info I have read is to bake the casting in the barbeque or oven at high heat for an hour or so (when momma is shopping), then take it out (carefully with oven mitts) and try again. They can sure be stubborn devils for sure.

Boil it in hot water, then try it.
I also use a drag link similar to [b:441a6821ea]this[/b:441a6821ea]. Fits on a ratchet.

If you have access to a oxy-accet torch with a FINE/small brazing tip, being careful not to damage the float hinge, heat the brass 'til it JUST shows a touch of red, then allow to cool to ambient temp.

Repeat.

Then screw it out with your fingers.

heat then candle wax

Had that problem a little time ago. Bought a new carb on Ebay. Several good tips were given. One I have used is this. Take that top and hold it in the jaws of a vice. Dont tighten them just hold it like a cradle. Heat it a little with a tourch. Not a lot, just get it really really warm. Put a couple of drops of penitrating oil on. Take a 9 / 16 bold and put the head squarely against the needle seat. Give it a few GENTLE taps. Usually will break the hold of corrosion. What do the rest of you guys think? As stated, these can be a real bear. The one I had was filled to the top with rust corrosion. Everything was a total welded mess. This is a picture of the bowl. The carb was worse.

I wonder if you can put some penetrating oil on it then take hammer and chisel and tat, tat, tat a little on one side of the slot then tat, tat, tat a little on the other side slot.

Like Bob, down below, said. Use small needle tip acetylene brazing tip and heat the brass until you see emerald green flame and then let cool. Always works on brass into cast. Will come out with any driver then.

I think others have the right idea using heat. I don't think a small plumbers torch will have enough het to melt the brass. Might want to square up the edges a little, with a file. Stan

Propane torch and heat it till it just smokes. Clamp the carb to the bench and use the big screwdriver with both hands and your chin pressing down on the grip.

Keep in mind that these Marvel Schebler carbs are cast, but they
are NOT cast iron. They are an alloy. An Oxy/Acetylene torch can
be used with care but it will melt a hole in them pretty quickly.
I rebuild about 50 or so per year and learned that lesson the hard way.

In the case of the needle seat, it is more likely the gasket is stuck
as opposed to the actual brass seat threads. Heating it with a torch will
burn the gasket out so it is free. Heating it in hot water will soften
the gasket so it is free. Difference is that hot water poses almost no
risk of damage and still leaves the other options available if it fails.
As an added bonus, I put Dawn dish soap in the water.
Cleans some of the grease and grim off while you're at it.

TSX-603 off an Oliver Super 55 I finished last week.

This I know from experience. The tapered blade is not as good as a flat ground blade. The taper almost always puts uneven pressure on the upper parts of the slot thus distorting the brass. A parallel ground blade using a wrench/square shank screwdriver or vise grips on the shank will allow better downward pressure application on the vise/holder secured body. A short blade length will lessen the chance of the blade distorting or twisting.

A heat gun would put more heat on the entire area but would not be as guick to overheat the brass as a point flame. I would not let the temperature to get over 500 f. The seat is most likely work hardened drawn brass and will soften if too hot and as others have mentioned will also mess with the base material if pot metal or aluminum.

A lubricant such a oil/ wax alternately applied between heat/ cooling cycles will help immensely. Heating then cooling with a half day or so wetting with lube is best including chilling in a freezer. The coefficient of expansion of the two metals is different and will eventually cause separation between the internal and external threads allowing lube to enter. The greater the temperature differential the better the results as long as the softening temp is not reached. That is the reason to use a freezer instead of more heat.

You might have to cut more slots at 90 degrees on the seat using a file or saw blade being careful to put a sheet of brass, aluminum or steel around it to protect the top of the carb. It just takes patience and if you have one, a non contact infrared thermometer.

I forgot to mention that the cost of infrared thermometers is so cheap these days it is always a good investment to have one around a farm and farm equipment. For me it is just remembering where I last left it. Probably used the laser pointer to entertain the cats.

Darn it. I am going to have to read some of the responding posts more carefully. The drag link socket Royse mentioned would be ideal since the blade is flat and short. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.

all good advice.....
for next time.....
A tire iron works well for this. Everyone has one/many....one of em will fit the slot well....and the leverage applied with either the L or T handle far exceeds hand strength, and breaks them loose easily.

I agree on the heat. Like others have said, not blazing heat just enough to expand the brass. This works by "stretching" the surrounding cast slightly, and when it cools the brass will pull away, breaking the oxidation that's holding it fast now.

Just don't try to turn it out hot because the brass will be too soft and you will ruin it.

Worst case if you do ruin it, use a left-handed drill bit to drill it out. Just go slow, keep it straight, and once you remove enough material it will either come out on the drill bit or you'll be able to collapse it out of the hole.

Second what Royse said. Boil it. Learned that trick from someone here a few years back and it has never failed me. Try to remove the seat as soon as you remove it from the boiling water.