Wood Hauler Mechanical Lift Fabed Working

Got the hinged L shaped lift arm fabed up and got the winch mounted to raise the body of the trailer. I fabed up a roller at the top of the arm for the cable to roll over. Made it from a piece of pipe and 2 wheel barrow wheel bearings. The bottom pivot of the L lift member was a bit of a challenge also. Cut a piece of 3/4" pipe, but most of you know that a 3/4" pin is sloppy in the pipe. I had a piece of 3/4" copper which I cut 2- 1" long bushings and fitted them inside the iron pipe. Just happened to have a NOS bracket off an old Jamesway barn cleaner that had a 3/4" shaft center drilled for a grease fitting so I utilized it for the pivot pin.
I din't have a metal lath so I did all my machine work with a 3/8" drill with a rotary file to make bearings and bushings fit. It didn't take a lot of effort, or time.
I still have some finishing touches to add, such as the battery box, reinforcing the bed where the cable hooks in, install the winch control, and a key disconnect from the battery to the controller.
Some one on the last post posed a question about my hinge plates on the body, and worried about wear and stress in the threaded area of the 3/4" hinge bolts. The nut on the outside is welded to the hinge plate/channel, and threads of the bolt are bottomed out in the nut, so no threads exposed to ware, plus the brackets welded to the chassis are also bushed and will have grease fittings. The lift doesn't exert much pressure on the hinges like hydraulic cylinders mounted under the body would, to raise the body.
Loren

How many barley pops did you go through dreaming up that hoist arrangement?

looks good might what to lathe a center slot in your top roller to keep the cable on center as cable moves from side to side on winch spool just a thought👍

looking good as always. Whats your plan for the cable? I would think that riding the rail under the body on top the roller will wear it out fast, or don't it hit like it looks like in the pictures.

I have some 5/16" rod off Kubota crates that will be welded on each edge of the center rail. so the roller doesn't ride on the cable.
Loren

I haven't fabed up the cable guide to center the cable on the roller yet. Tomorrows project along with others mentioned. Probably going to fab in a pulley back at the final anchor point on the dump body to compound the winch power also.
Loren

Bob, It took a couple. HeHe.
Loren

That is an interesting system! Looks like it should work. The only thing I wonder about is will that lower channel be strong enough, there is going to be a lot of torque on it right at the point where the roller starts under the bed. Have you considered plating the bottom? As usual, your creativity is impresssive.

I have a Lincoln welder just like the one you have only my has paint on it.

that should work

Jon, I think the same as you. I still need to build a plate to support the front of the body onto the tower, from another piece of 3" channel when it is down, and that will extend towards the hinge point and taper down at the rear to reinforce the channel. More pics tomorrow evening.
Loren

Looks top notch as always

Here at work we have a decent size drill press. Nice toy to have is one of those slide jaw drill press vice things. Cross drilled over eight low temper sholder bolts for my lawn and garden mower gauge wheels. Made steel bushings for the wheels out of 3/8 pipe. Work fantastic. With those tempered bolts I use 3/16 drive grease fittings. People look at you as if you crazey when they are told institutions are done with a hammer. Have several different sizes and if done correctly they don't come out. Do you use them? Your trailers all look very nice.

So I think instead of me trying to copy that I'll will just drop by and buy one from you! Lol let's see 900 miles one way..........looks great!

Pretty cool, Loren.

Going to show this to our son. He just bought an old flare box... not sure of his intended use for it - but he just might like your hoist.

Was wondering how this part of it worked, and you're not the only one that uses copper pipe for bushings. This one is coming right along you'll be ready to paint as soon as the weather warms up, we are certainly due at this point.

I have an old McConnell 7'-0" 3 pt blade and the top link hole in the mast is slightly larger than Cat 1 standard size. I've had 2 implements like that over the years, always wondered why that size. Was looking at a chart or in a steel catalog at work and it dawned on me that 5/8" or 3/4" copper pipe is the bushing size I needed. Can't recall which now, fit perfectly and took out the free play. Soft but for as much use it will see, easy to replace if it does wear out. I have to believe there is something in bushing stock of in the McMaster-Carr catalog, just never looked, as I found something in my plumbing supplies that works.