Bent trailer axle

I bought a car trailer last year and did not have a chance to really try it. Well I knew it had a slight bend in the rear most axle and the tires are not trailer tires but I wanted to make a test run to see how well it would haul a 400 Farmall before I started putting too much money into it. Well it did not do too bad but it does need improvement. Now bear in mind I don't plan on using it too much, maybe a few shows in a twenty mile radius if I ever get them to run really good. The deck is built really heavy so I am wondering if I could put a heavier axle under for the bent one. It almost looks like it was changed already. Do my hubs fit on a heavier axle or even a same 3500Lb axle, or do I have to change all of it. I had bought some new tires and wheels but had to special order the wheels to get the right bolt pattern and they were not here so I'm not fond of the idea of having to get new ones again. I know it is a bit light but the previous owners daughter is a good friend and he needed to get rid of it, and now he is dead. I likely will not be moving anything heavy for awhile as I still have hydraulic problems in now all three tractors.

I have replaced axles under two of my trailers. I replaced with the same as original, but the options are very extensive. I bought mine through my local independently owned auto parts store. They gave me a sheet to fill out giving various measurements and specs. and the axle was built to my specs. I would think that you could, with a little looking, find a place in your area where you can get the same service. The cost of both of them were surprisingly low.

Try Redneck Trailer Supplies, they have everything trailers and will also build axle to specs if needed.

I would not change just one axle as the equalizer distributes the weight equally to each, so the old axle will still be over loaded. The most common cause of bent axles is from the axle hitting the frame. Look for evidence of that. Hitting the frame is usually caused by worn or mismatched suspension components, so check that closely. To get heavier axles than 3500lb you need to go to the next family up which is 5200, 6000, 7000. That will require 6 or 8 bolt wheels.

If it was mine I would start with a thurough inspection of all the components, suspension, springs, brakes and bearings. That way you will know what you actually need and if it's worth fixing. If all you need is an axle tube they can be had for about $150.00.

If you want to go heavier it is most always more cost effective to sell what you have and buy another.

Redneck made a replacement axle for me and shipped for less money than the local guys wanted to supply and axle.

Rich

Are you sure you have a bent axle? How about a broken belt in one or more of your tires? That will cause all kind of havoc for a trailer. I was told some axles are bent in the loading and unloading because the tailend of the trailer was not supported. I don't know, but am very careful now as replacing my bent axle was pricey. gobble

If it really is bent, I have straightened them, but to do a good job you need a press, roller stands and a dial indicator. Once my BIL and I straightened one with a railroad tie, 2 chains and a hydraulic jack, made it a lot better than it was! Did it while it was under a mobile home.

Maybe not bent at all.
Most 3500lb capacity trailer axles have a bend in them new from factory and on purpose.
They will have a noticeable up-bend in the middle.
It is a preload thing in the design.

You mention a "bent axle". Are you certain it isn't camber?

Peek here:
http://blog.easternmarine.com/trailer-axle-camber-what-its-all-about/

My 400 is over 7000 lbs. If that is what your trailer is rated for, you are overloading the trailer. This will cause you to have more problems than it may be worth dealing with. I have bought two heavier trailers and it would have been about the same money to have bought a new trailer that would have been designed to do the job properly. I would suggest trying to sell this trailer for what you have in it and get a better trailer. It will be less time and effort for you now and less headaches later.

That was my first thought.

Most heavier trailer axles have a slight kink upward in the middle to put a bit of camber into the wheels.

Thanks for the replies. Tractor has no weights standard drawbar and no fluid. Almost a base model with the small gas tank which is almost empty. Six thousand maybe but doubt it , nowhere near seven. The back axle would have negative camber. What you can see is the back tires are at a different angle then the front when viewed from a distance. I know the trailer is light for what I should have but there are other priorities right now. I will likely make necessary repairs even if I sell. There is a new floor on it and no rust on the frame. Wheels, bearings, electrical and brakes were updated but not changed to the current bolt pattern which is not a common size now. I may rent to move heavier things in the future so investing in a heavier trailer likely will not happen unless I win the lottery which I don?t buy tickets. Mainly what I need to know is can I reuse wheels and hubs but Jon had mentioned doing both axles which I may do. Springs and shackles look good but suspect a frozen pivot which when it gets warm and dry I will look at.

(quoted from post at 09:53:18 03/22/18)What you can see is the back tires are at a different angle then the front when viewed from a distance.

Click to expand...

I have (2) 16' tandem axle trailers; one is nearly 30 years old and the other is about 3 years. Haven't paid attention to the older one as that trailer has always been so perfectly reliable. The newer trailer I had problems with since new, which caused me to watch it more closely both in the side mirrors and when sitting and parked in the yard. It seems like the only time the tires on each axle are both vertical is when it is sitting still and no load. If there is a load, then varying ground contours will effect how the tires look one to the other.

Again, from what you've said, I don't know if what you're seeing is normal or not. It would be of great help if you could post a photo showing what you're seeing.

One thing to keep in mind is, while these tandem axle trailers have equalizers, that doesn't mean each axle is taking an equal share of the load at all times. There are many times when one wheel will take far more of the load on that side of the trailer than the other wheel, such as when driving over a pothole or a bump (for example).

The only way one axle has more weight is if
the equalizer is bottomed out. That won't
happen on a standard curb, and any hole
would have to be REAL deep, if the trailer
is pulled level and the suspension is not
worn out or have mismatched parts.

If you axle is for sure a 3500lb you should be able to buy just the axle tube. As far as I know all 3500lb axle's have been standardized for at least 30 years, so if it's different it is real old. But if you measure the spindle I can tell you if it's standard. If it is standard all your parts should fit the new axle. To order an axle you need the center to center on the springs and the hub face. To get an accurate hub face, you will need help to put a straight edge on each hub face and measure between them.

If you like I can order what ever parts you need through Redneck on my account which should save you some money, and have them shipped to you. You will have to provide direct payment tho as I don't get involved with paying for parts that are direct shipped.

(quoted from post at 19:53:19 03/22/18) The only way one axle has more weight is if
the equalizer is bottomed out. That won't
happen on a standard curb, and any hole
would have to be REAL deep, if the trailer
is pulled level and the suspension is not
worn out or have mismatched parts.

Click to expand...

Or the pivot points are too tight.