Dual wheels

SVcummins

Well-known Member
Got the duals cleaned up welded a couple rotten spots and took the cold chisel and ball pien hammer and broke all the rotten material loose and then a lot of grinding with the with the wire wheel and flap disk they look pretty good . Now I just need to decide if I?m going por 15 em or just primer and rust Olem Thanks calcium chloride ! Also got the j bolts straightened and threads chased
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sv. I would por-15 the inside of the rims and both sides of the spacers, i'm like you in detesting that calcium chloride and the rot It causes, and to add insult to injury up here now the highways dept.s are using liquid calcium on the highways. same crap they pump into tires :evil: I am constantly changing out switches and wiring on welders now from that dam stuff. what ever happened to the old sand and salt they used to use?? it was bad but not nearly the as bad as this liquid crap.
 
They run the liquid here now to it works but eats everything . I've fought the stupid stuff on every rim on
the place that's ever had it in . one was so bad I never could it to stop puncturing the tube had it apart
5 times sanding and painting finally threw it away and bought a used rim that handnt been exposed to liquid
death
 
Por 15 works if you give it time to fully cure before mounting the tires.

I have not seen dual hardware like that before. Have you figured out what brand you have???
 
There is what's left of an old decal that says gopher home and farm equipment. I'm not familiar with this style of duals at all but what looking I have done I have not seen any mounting hardware like this either
 
I don't know what that hardware is either never saw any like that.
For the chloride in tires,if you fix the leak promptly it is not bad. We have some rims here that are over 60 years old and still going with chloride in them and on the 3rd set of tires. Most people don't fix them right away causes the problem.
 
(quoted from post at 03:23:49 02/20/18) I don't know what that hardware is either never saw any like that.
For the chloride in tires,if you fix the leak promptly it is not bad. We have some rims here that are over 60 years old and still going with chloride in them and on the 3rd set of tires. Most people don't fix them right away causes the problem.

CaCl can't corrode steel without oxygen being present. In order to severely rust your rims you have to add air regularly. It takes a strong effort to make CaCl rust rims away.
 
Hey SV--I wish I would have known you were doing this project. I used to and now my Son buys and sells a lot of tires and would buy duals just for the tires-so we have ALOT of dual hardware. Could have save you lots of work. Never seen hooks like that though. If you need anything let me know-CHEAP---Tee
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Tee: Where are you located? I changed out the rims and tires on my 1650 Oliver from 16.9x34 to 18.4x34 and also have the dual rims laying around in the way. I am in lower Indiana.
 
i use 2 coats of por 15 on the insides of the rims. stuff works really well. i do run the evil calcium in my tires, and in the event of a leak, the por 15 keeps the rims from rusting. the stuff is tough as nails. i did pint the inside of the mower deck on my zero turn with it, held up for 4 years or so before it wore off. dont get it on your hands, tough to get off without their thinner.
 
(quoted from post at 05:24:02 02/20/18)
For the chloride in tires,if you fix the leak promptly it is not bad.
CaCl can't corrode steel without oxygen being present. In order to severely rust your rims you have to add air regularly. It takes a strong effort to make CaCl rust rims away.

I've never had a tractor without chloride in the rear tires for traction. Some of the wheels are well over 60 years old and seem just fine. Even had it in the fronts on a 2390 Case (tubeless) and the rims were clean when I finally replaced the tires. Its way way cheaper than cast iron and never been a problem for me. But nobody uses it in the outer duals.
 
(quoted from post at 10:42:44 02/20/18) In the first photo - what's that ball hitch doing in the floor?

I will guess a gooseneck trailer hitch on his flatbed truck.

I always run enough CC to keep the rim covered.
No air to steel = no rust on steel.
 
When I work on rims I use the pickup bed liner spray on the rims it holds up longer then paint will plus it gives them a thick coating that will cover any burr that you may have missed
 
The Ford Versitle that I drove had calcium in all eight tires. Pulled a 45 ft Crouse disk. Wonderful tractor!
 
(quoted from post at 07:41:34 02/20/18)
(quoted from post at 05:24:02 02/20/18)
For the chloride in tires,if you fix the leak promptly it is not bad.
CaCl can't corrode steel without oxygen being present. In order to severely rust your rims you have to add air regularly. It takes a strong effort to make CaCl rust rims away.

I've never had a tractor without chloride in the rear tires for traction. Some of the wheels are well over 60 years old and seem just fine. Even had it in the fronts on a 2390 Case (tubeless) and the rims were clean when I finally replaced the tires. Its way way cheaper than cast iron and never been a problem for me. But nobody uses it in the outer duals.

It is not unusual these days to have CaCl put in tubeless tires. If you don't keep adding oxygen all the CaCl does is discolor the surface of the steel a little.
 
Yes they did and you can taste the rotten crap when you're grinding it off . The duals for my 4020 originally had calcium in them to
 
It takes a lot of iron to equal the weight of calcium but yes it would be cheaper in the long run I?ve never ever seen a tire serviceman clean a rim or tire after Its gone flat and if you puncture a tire with fluid the fluid goes on the ground and you get to buy it again
 
The next question on this project is whether I want to try and get these miserable taper lock hubs apart and move the wheels in and swap the inside tires side to side or just leave em and notch the ring for the valve stem
 
(quoted from post at 14:43:50 02/20/18) The next question on this project is whether I want to try and get these miserable taper lock hubs apart and move the wheels in and swap the inside tires side to side or just leave em and notch the ring for the valve stem

Aren't the valve stems "up a step" on the rim, so the spacer ring would clear?
 
(quoted from post at 23:14:31 02/20/18)
(quoted from post at 14:43:50 02/20/18) The next question on this project is whether I want to try and get these miserable taper lock hubs apart and move the wheels in and swap the inside tires side to side or just leave em and notch the ring for the valve stem

Aren't the valve stems "up a step" on the rim, so the spacer ring would clear?

Yes. There is no need to notch the the band.
 
I guess they will clear but the stem is in a precarious position if the dual wheel decides it won't want to
go on easily
 
So the new plan of attack is as Follows I?m going to cut the spacer rings off these rims they only spot welded then I will probably take the blank rims back to the salvage yard . Then I?m going to cut the centers out of these John Deere rims and weld the spacer rings on those wheels . I think the rims i got from the salvage yard are just to rotten I?ve had them apart about a month now and even though I took them down to bare metal the rust Is so bad metal is flaking off in chunks again . I just don?t think they will ever hold air becuse you will never stop the calcium
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(quoted from post at 19:37:50 04/02/18) So the new plan of attack is as Follows I?m going to cut the spacer rings off these rims they only spot welded then I will probably take the blank rims back to the salvage yard . Then I?m going to cut the centers out of these John Deere rims and weld the spacer rings on those wheels . I think the rims i got from the salvage yard are just to rotten I?ve had them apart about a month now and even though I took them down to bare metal the rust Is so bad metal is flaking off in chunks again . I just don?t think they will ever hold air becuse you will never stop the calcium
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Come on SV, you know that you have a lot of rust around you place that has never been exposed to CaCL. You will convince very few of us that there is something about CaCl that imbeds in metal. We know that rust is rust despite it being caused by different agents. Have you tried hitting the worst areas with your slag hammer? The problem that you have is that the tire and wheel held the rust in place as opposed to it flaking off as with the rest of your rusty things.
 
Then I?m going to cut the centers out of these John Deere rims and weld the spacer rings on those wheels .]

Why would you butcher what looks like a good pair of 9 bolt wheels???? :roll: Get a set of 9 bolt hubs for your tractor.
 

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