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GL1 Debate

D

David G

Well-known Member
I need to put lube in the LI, GL1 is getting harder to find.

I know GL5 is supposed to not be yellow metal friendly, but does it really matter?
 
Matter to who? I did not know there was any "debate." GL1 is just 30 or 40 weight motor-oil with no additives. Tractor Supply sells it as 90W Ford transmission oil. Some transmissions need GL1. Like a Oliver Cletrac or Case 350 with wet-brakes in a Clark transaxle. If GL5 is used, the anti-wear additives plug up the brake-bands.

Issues when GL5 is used in a synchromesh trans that calls for GL4 too. GL5 additives make the syncrho-clutches slip too much.

Again - never thought of it as a debate. Just general knowledge.
 
JDEM, seems you are overlooking the possibly not "yellow metal safe" part?

It just MAY matter if non "yellow metal safe" gear oil is used in a transmission with brass synchros, or a rear end with brass thrust washers.
SOME info from
 
I am not overlooking the yellow-metal safe thing. The guy that started this "debate" already mentioned it, so I chose not to repeat what he already said.

The yellow-metal thing can be a non-issue anyway since several companies sell yellow-metal safe GL5 gear-oil.
 

Any straight weight 50 or 60 motor oil is yellow metal friendly , wet clutch friendly, doesn't stink like GL-5 and is thicker than 90wt gear oil.
 
My local Tractor Supply sells non-detergent 40 weight motor-oil. That is the same thing as GL1 90 weight gear-oil.
(Not arguing your point). Just making one.
 
Sort of the same subject. I went all over the "big city" yesterday in northern Michigan, trying to find the correct GL4 gear oil for my manual transmission. I went to every autoparts store and could not find it. Oriellys, Advance, Carquest, NAPA, and Autozone. Also one independent store.

Not only could I not find it, I got the "deer in the headlights" look when I asked for it.

So, once again - had to order on-line and now have to wait for it. May be others but I ordered Redline MT-90.

Auto-parts stores are not what they used to be. Since computers became common - seems anybody can work the parts counter without knowing anything.
a256571.jpg
 
My tractor supply has nothing but GL5, stopped at JD, GL5, NAPA is 30 miles away, so not good luck this morning.
 
Tractor Supply in Alpena, Michigan has the oil in two versions. The Ford 90W I already posted and as 40W non-detergent motor oil (same as 90W gear oil).
a256589.jpg
 
David; Wet and slick is what matters most. Yellow metal friendly is only an issue when you have syncro's and brass bushing's and water. My guess is you have exactly one brass bushing in that L just like on my M and it is in the tail end of the powershaft. That makes it a non issue.

Last time I changed the oil in my M I ordered a bucket of GL1 140wt from my local carquest. I ordered that because I wanted 140wt. I won't bother next time. I have since learned the old Harley's used 50wt and 60wt non detergent motor oil in the old panheads so I'll modernize and go with a straight 60wt non detergent oil along with a bottle of Lucas next time. The Lucas is for the ep additives.
 
GL5 gives the most wear protection. It was designed to protect hypoid gears.

The problems of using in some older equipment are this.

#1 Original formula GL5 was not safe to use where any yellow metal like brass or copper existed. Now you can buy GL5 that is yellow-metal
safe.

#2. Some transmissions have wet-brakes that get ruined by GL5 because of the extra additives.

#3. Some manual transmissions require a certain amount of friction on the synchronizer clutches to work right and GL5 is too slippery.

As far as your Deere A goes? GL5 in the correct viscosity is fine if yellow metal safe version. I have no idea if your Deere has any brass
in it or not.
 
Many times the containers are not marked very good. I once did get some GL5 that was marked as yellow metal safe.
 
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