Cracked engine block

SVcummins

Well-known Member
Has anybody fixed a cracked engine block with any
success ? I?ve seen them repaired before had one
in a Massey Ferguson combine that we had welded
and it worked good for as long as we had the
machine sold it with the cracked block and I don?t
know what ever happened to it after that . Anyway
trying to decide if I should try welding it or use a
cold weld epoxy has anybody ever used parts
master mega therm I guess it cost 800$ for the two
parts
a256030.jpg
 
What engine, where is it cracked, how bad and what is it leaking? I have no experience with the product you’ve selected.

I’ve had good luck using messers’s MG210 welding cast iron to itself as well as mild steel. My dad always used an analogy about welding cast iron, it’s kinda like cooking a steak, you only get one chance to do it right.
 
That is a block known for cracking. Best permanent repair is to replace the block,with a non 53 casting. If you patch it and put the engine on a hard pull it will crack again at the repair,or next to it
 
I feel your pain, I had one crack many years ago, really bad too, coolant would pour out. Ended up doing a 12 valve swap, I was younger and more ambitious.

Have you checked out any of the dodge forums? Like dieseltruckresource.com? I’ve seen that crack repaired with lockn’ stitch and welded, I can’t comment on their success, but MSM is right, the only sure way is to swap in a non-53 block.

I guess you’ll have to decide if it’s worth the expense to put that much into at minimum a 16 year old truck.
 
I had a 185 Allis cracked forward right under the head. They said they repaired it with J B Weld, that is what it looked like and it often looked a little damp, but I ran it all summer without an issue.
 
Take it from someone that has been welding for close to 50 years, DO NOT TRY TO WELD IT !!
Lock-n-Stitch makes a complete repair system for your application. It is not cheap by any means, but it works. I have used Lock-n-stitch on several blocks and heads. IT WORKS!!
 
Only permanent repair for a cracked 53 block is a replacement non-53 block. I suppose it could be welded or other repairs used if the block is removed and hot tanked to make sure it is clean, but by the time you do that you may as well find another engine. I would put that $800 towards another short block.
 
My uncle patched the block of am M farmall over 50 years ago with JB weld. It froze and cracked behind the carburetor.His son still uses the old M,JB weld still in place.
 

I've read several threads on Cummins forums about cracked 53 blocks. Most that repaired them only had the block to crack further out from the repair.
Replacing the block is about the only sure fix for a cracked 53 block.
 
(quoted from post at 03:38:50 02/05/18) Its a 53 block Cummins leaking antifreeze these blocks crack
right above the frost plugs
good morning sv. what is this engine in? I hope it's not in one of your pieces, ouch.
 
My 8N has an 8-inch-long bead of JB Weld on the side of the block. It has been there more than 40 years with no problem.
 
(quoted from post at 20:08:01 02/05/18) Its in my dually been losing antifreeze haven't been able to
figure out where it was going


Use a block sealer with water glass or sodium silicate in it. Works great!
 
(quoted from post at 19:08:01 02/05/18) Its in my dually been losing antifreeze haven't been able to
figure out where it was going
dam sorry to hear this sv. I'm thinking do the stich and the sealer compound you have or another type block sealer. best case scenario it holds, if it doesn't then your probably looking at a short block? do you still have the 98? and would it drop in and hook up?
 
No the other one was a 94 that got totaled I guess the 98 is kind of an old ball in the 24 valve I know a
newer engine can be made to work though
 
Thanks for all the replies talking to some welding shops and going to see what they recommend I also know of a company that makes an externAl piece to strengthen the block in that area where the casting is known to be thin on these blocks
 
(quoted from post at 01:37:02 02/06/18) No the other one was a 94 that got totaled I guess the 98 is kind of an old ball in the 24 valve I know a
newer engine can be made to work though

98's started production as 12v trucks but where changed to 24v in Jan 98 to meet emissions changes that took effect Jan 98.

A 12v block can be used to build a 24v but adapters there needed for the senders, 12v blocks have pipe threads and 24v blocks use orb style threads.
 
One can’t simply take any 12 valve block and convert it to 24 valve. Only a late 12 valve from 1998 would work and no one in their right mind would tear one down to make it a 24 valve.
There’s many changes over the years, some minor, others significant. They changed the sensors and ports to metric fittings, added extra engine mounting holes, added a location behind the starter to a crankshaft position sensor among other things. The 24 valve crank is machined to allow a tone to be bolted on.

98 to 2000 24 valves are basically the same, there were some minor changes in 01/02’s.
 
I have repaired a block, don't know yet how well as the rebuild is not yet finished. I have not used the parts master epoxy, but there is an error on the front of the cans that might make me wonder if there are more. 5 pounds is not 11 kilograms, but 5 kilograms is 11 pounds.

North Gower Al
 

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