Farmall torque amplifier

johnlobb · Jan 18, 2018

I know little or nothing about this device. I have seen some warnings, like on a recent post "Don't use the TA while going downhill". Is there any good advise on what to do or not do while driving a tractor with a TA? What wrecks or damages them? If you're buying a tractor with one, how do you know if it's good or bad? And when would you use them? What is their advantage?

DeltaRed · Jan 18, 2018

Shift hard and fast. Shifting slow is the worst as that slips both (hi/lo) clutches simultainously.Use it to pull through a tough spot.Shift while baleing to slow down for heavier hay.Use it to pull away from a stop sign. It should shift crisp and definite ,if it hesitates,there is a problem. stomp on both brakes while in low. That should load the engine.If it slips,it's history.

rustyfarmall · Jan 18, 2018

If you pull the TA lever back while going downhill, it will free-wheel and start coasting. The later IH tractors did not free-wheel.

Dave H (MI) · Jan 18, 2018

What tractor do you have? Older or newer?

Mike M · Jan 18, 2018

Only thing I know is I saw an M with one at a tractor pull. He started to bog down. Grabbed that lever and it took off again. so it must give you one step down in 1 gear and acts like a power shift trans does but just 1 shift only.

Charlie M · Jan 18, 2018

They are handy to have and not using them correctly is the biggest issue with them going bad. Guys below has said the correct way to use it. They reduce speed in all gears so its like having a 10 speed transmission instead of a 5 speed. Of all the ones I've seen that went bad only the low range was not working. The tractor was still useable at normal speeds. I don't know if they can go bad and the tractor is completely out of action. Like anything they can also wear out but that takes way longer than damage by not using them correctly.

Goose · Jan 18, 2018

I second that. Don't try to baby it by pushing or pulling the lever slow. Slap it back and forth like you're mad at it.

I once was talking to a mechanic while he was working on one. The tractor had only 800 hours on it, while I've always heard the average life of a TA was 3,000 hours.

The mechanic told me the owner of the tractor said, "I don't know why it went out. I always tried to ease the lever back and forth slow to take it as easy on the TA as I could". The mechanic told him that was the worst thing he could do to it, and undoubtedly the reason it failed so soon.

rrlund · Jan 18, 2018

When I had my 706,they warned me just to never use it unless it was under load. Never use it when it could freewheel,like coming up to the driveway slowing down to turn in.

Gary Mitchell · Jan 18, 2018

Low side's been out of dad's 460 for 40 years. He had it rebuilt twice and decided it wasn't worth the cost. 30 years ago someone tried to pull the lever back and it was froze to where it wouldn't move. I don't think anyone has ever missed it. gm

Janicholson · Jan 18, 2018

Testing either the mechanical (small frame tractors like a 450) or the Hydraulic Big frame tractors like a 806 is the same. The best test is pulling a tillage implement. with the tractor pulling hard in direct drive (lever forward) crisply pull the lever back (or switch). it should down shift int the reduction like a n automatic does going up a hill. Clean change in ratios. Then crisply pushing the lever forward it should up shift with very small transitional slippage. The engine should come down to loaded in tenths of a second.
The other way is to test it on a county road by starting out in road gear with the lever back. give it near wide open throttle and (when safe) let the clutch out like you are avoiding an accident. It should pull from a stop cleanly and when shifted to direct, act as above with little slippage. If the master clutch is worn, slippage will occur in all tests. If the tractor does not move, the sprag clutch is out. If it will not go into direct, (no shift) the TA front clutch is out. Jim

HuskerLyn · Jan 18, 2018

Can you only replace the front clutch and no the sprag and if so what?s the cost? Or should both be worked on if one is out? Costs? (806)

Janicholson · Jan 18, 2018

The 806 has hydraulic multiplate clutches in the front, and in the rear. the rear clutch is 1/2 the strength of the front clutch and is paralleled with a sprag (one way) clutch for driving force and to prevent frewheel down hills. If one needs service, both should be replaced along with the sprag. So much cheaper than doing it twice. Jm

HuskerLyn · Jan 18, 2018

Thanks for the reply, have a 1086 with same problem, any idea on approximate cost?

Janicholson · Jan 18, 2018

I don't Kevin Meyer who posts here has them and is informed. Jim

RBoots · Jan 18, 2018

If you're ever up this way John, look me up. I'll show you and let you see how a TA works for yourself.

Ross

Harold Melius · Jan 19, 2018

I am not experienced with operating a T/A, but I have seen the result of one of them over reving. I bought a 656 to restore a while back that had a blown T/A. Parts of the clutch disc and pressure plate came out through the top cover and left a hole about the size of a base ball. It came out right below and to the front of the seat, so the parts went right between the operators knees. He may still be shaking

. It was fairly easy to rebuild and turned out nice.

Farmall torque amplifier

johnlobb

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DeltaRed

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rustyfarmall

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Dave H (MI)

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Mike M

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Charlie M

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Goose

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rrlund

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Gary Mitchell

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Janicholson

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HuskerLyn

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Janicholson

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HuskerLyn

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Janicholson

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RBoots

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Harold Melius

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