(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

55 Gal. Counter weight Topic Again.

Hobo,NC

Hobo,NC

Well-known Member
Location
Sanford, NC
I remember a good discussion on this back in the summer but cannot find it. I plan in the next few weeks to make 3 one for me and two for a couple buds. They have agreed to supply the material for all three if I build them. I would like to see what Y'all have came up with...
 
I don?t have a picture but for the 40hp Deere at work I took a
3pt drawbar and hung suit case weights on it through the
handle and I love it. When I need to do something else just sit
it down and it stands on its own. I also have two pins dropped
in as close to the weights as possible so they don?t slide and
slam around
 
I don't have a picture but I welded up a framework with a drawbar and put it in 1/2 of a plastic barrel. I would not want one without a drawbar or a top link bracket, to prevent it from swinging. You never know when you might need to move a trailer. The barrel is filled with concrete and scrap iron, iron is 3 times heavier than concrete.
 
Ya we bought a used cement filled one this spring. Heavy as heck. Turned out that what looked to be a good solid hitch bar actually wasn't and it broke off. It fell against the tractor and very very very luckily only bent the pto shield on the 4030 NewHolland. The drawbar was off and all I could think of was it could have hit the pto shaft and done thousands and many thousands dollars in damage. The barrels in the woods now.
 
It might not be a half bad idea to put a piece of drawbar out the back of it incase you want to hook on to something just to move it around.
 

Its going to be a 55 gal drum are this I ran across it this morning. Its 48X19X13 made out of 3/16 plate. My calculations its 6.86 cubic ft. A 55 gal drum is 7.53 cubic ft close enoufh for me. You start off weighing 100 Lbs more from the get go and can weld the hitch directly to it. Its a fuel tank off a cat dozer...


8037.jpg
 
My idea for a 55 gal drum counter weight involves a drum, steel or plastic and water at 8.35 pounds per gallon. That translates out to around
400 pounds. A drain spigot at the bottom means you don't need a machine to move it when empty.
 
Looks good Hobo.
I never understood folks who fill a barrel
with concrete. They'll have themselves a
real artifact there. One that can't be
recycled, easily be moved or gotten rid
of.
A thousand years from now it will still be
laying around somewhere.
Filling a barrel with sand or water is
much smarter.
 
(quoted from post at 04:01:04 12/25/17) Looks good Hobo.
I never understood folks who fill a barrel
with concrete. They'll have themselves a
real artifact there. One that can't be
recycled, easily be moved or gotten rid
of.
A thousand years from now it will still be
laying around somewhere.
Filling a barrel with sand or water is
much smarter.
Click to expand...

Have you ever had the back tires come off the ground while using a loader. You can not get the needed weight with sand are water. You can dig a hole and blurry it if need be then use the dirt for what ever... Concrete is whats its going to be 8)
 
If you filled it with sand and added water
it would be pretty close to the weight of
concrete.
Wet sand is about 3500 lbs/yard.
Concrete is about 4000 lbs/yard.
But its your call and your artifact.
As to standing the tractor on it's nose with
a loader, remind me not to buy a tractor
from you.
 
I built one by taking a three point drawbar and sticking it through a plastic barrel 1'off the ground. I then took an old top link, welded it to the drawbar and through the front of the
barrel. I then filled the barrel with cement. It weighs close to 800# and is very easy to hook up...
 
(quoted from post at 05:58:40 12/25/17) If you filled it with sand and added water
it would be pretty close to the weight of
concrete.
Wet sand is about 3500 lbs/yard.
Concrete is about 4000 lbs/yard.
But its your call and your artifact.
As to standing the tractor on it's nose with
a loader, remind me not to buy a tractor
from you.
Click to expand...

One time deal its going to be bullet prof concrete it will be. These new botas will pick a back tar off the ground :shock: Its not entertaing at all...
 
I used a 30 gal drum, a rod thru and a extra long eye bolt for top link attach point.
Filled with cement and rocks.
Used on my 2N
 
(quoted from post at 10:35:10 12/24/17) I remember a good discussion on this back in the summer but cannot find it. I plan in the next few weeks to make 3 one for me and two for a couple buds. They have agreed to supply the material for all three if I build them. I would like to see what Y'all have came up with...
Click to expand...

sorry, no pics,
couple ideas,
-cast in a 2" ID square tubing out the rear for hitch inserts.
-a PVC tube cast in vertical is a good place to carry shovels, etc.
-when mocking up the 3-point geometry, put a steel tube thru the drum. (I used part of a basement jackstand)
Then an 11 hole drawbar can be slipped into the steel tube for use, and removed for other things when not using the counterweight.
-make it heavier than you think you need.....
-use a check/limit chain kit to hold it up after lifting

ps yes, those little Orange tractors are strong. My loader will easily pick up a rear tire if I hook something......even with a backhoe hanging off the back.
 
A little over 40 years ago I made a 2’x2’ square box out of old scrap lumber with the appropriate three point hitch hardware sticking out of it and hauled it to the re-mix plant where they filled it with Crete. It is still being used during the winter. It works on a cat 2 quick hitch making it easy to pick up and drop off. I did weigh it on the neighbor’s uncalibrated platform scale and it came up at 1300 pounds. I have called it my poor man’s front assist. It made quite a difference on the back of the 630 Deere but now when it hangs on the back of the 1086 IH it doesn’t make as much noticeable difference but it does help somewhat.
 
Hobo, I used a 55 gallon barrel as a start. Then a 3 point draw bar for attaching to the tractor. If you build one make sure to put it through
the barrel in the front one third of the barrel, not in the middle. In my case any further back and the draw bar would hit the front of the
barrel. I also added a piece of iron out the back as an additional draw bar for moving wagons, etc. It comes in very handy to put the trailer in
the shed instead of the truck with better visibility.
 
(quoted from post at 22:21:13 12/27/17) Hobo, I used a 55 gallon barrel as a start. Then a 3 point draw bar for attaching to the tractor. If you build one make sure to put it through
the barrel in the front one third of the barrel, not in the middle. In my case any further back and the draw bar would hit the front of the
barrel. I also added a piece of iron out the back as an additional draw bar for moving wagons, etc. It comes in very handy to put the trailer in
the shed instead of the truck with better visibility.
Click to expand...

That's my plan other than I don't see the need for a hitch to pull a trailer... It will be a trailer hitch delete model... :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 22:21:13 12/27/17) Hobo, I used a 55 gallon barrel as a start. Then a 3 point draw bar for attaching to the tractor. If you build one make sure to put it through
the barrel in the front one third of the barrel, not in the middle. In my case any further back and the draw bar would hit the front of the
barrel. I also added a piece of iron out the back as an additional draw bar for moving wagons, etc. It comes in very handy to put the trailer in
the shed instead of the truck with better visibility.
Click to expand...

That's my plan other than I don't see the need for a hitch to pull a trailer... It will be a trailer hitch delete model... :lol:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Back In The Saddle Again
Replies
7
Views
701
Ron Kingland
R
N
Galion 104H
Replies
10
Views
529
Nolbyone
N
D
Yesterday Was A Emotionally Mixed Day
Replies
15
Views
973
larry@stinescorner
L
K
1943 Farmall H transmission project and mouse problem
Replies
5
Views
417
BarnyardEngineering
BarnyardEngineering
P
RIP
2 3
Replies
41
Views
3K
dcarp
dcarp
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top