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Re; message for dieseltec

T

Tractorcedric

Member
Location
Garland. Utah
So I got the injection pump off of my 3020 JD. Many of you posted very good info! The metering valve was stuck. The plastic ring that drives the governor was gone. The bad news is that I busted the cam ring advance bolt. It did not want to come loose. I drilled a hole through it from the hole in the opposite side of the cam ring and used an easy out and some heat. I read some were that JD used a special headed advance bolt? Would I have to get it from them? I have torks 45 that worked well on the two other pumps I have done for Gleaner engines. Also I noticed that since the plastic ring has been gone for a while the little pins that it fits over are worn. So were is the best place to get the updated governor and one of those advance bolts? Thanks for all your helpful info!
 
Your trouble with that governor bolt is it takes a straight spline Bristol wrench to fit it correctly. Those are hard to find. I have an old set but it is the only one I have seen in a while. The "factory" socket is now a ground off torqs.

IF you try to take one apart again take a punch that fits down into the bottom of the advance bolt. Hit it hard with a hammer. That will usually make them come out easy.

The governor/cam ring bolt would be the same in any Roosamaster/Stanadyne pump. JD did not make anything in that pump. They just bought it and installed it. So just buy a Stanadyne one. For the weight cage. I replace them with the solid ones. Stanadyne Part number 29111.
 
If the metering valve was stuck there's a good chance the plungers and delivery valve are stuck too. I would not recommend ever hitting the cam screw center, I've seen guys do that and usually end up cracking the cam ring. I have some old Mack plunger barrels to help with removing the broken screw, have not had to use them in a long time.
 
Stanadyne (at least they used to) makes/sells a tool that is basically a steel sleeve/girdle the surrounds the head of the bolt you broke and (hopefully) prevents it from expanding/breaking when you are trying to remove it.

I don't know the part #, offhand but I have one at the shop. Hopefully, some REAL expert will chime in here.

SAD deal here, with many IP shops acting like they have a license to steal, vs. diy'ers breaking things 'cause they don't have the correct tools/knowledge.
 
ALL good advise here..
JD Sellers gave you the PN of the updated EID weight retainer BUT you HAVE TO transfer the timing line over to the new weight retainer..
Inspect you c. ring for a crack.. you can dangle it from 1 finger & give it a sharp rap w/ something metal & it SHOULD ring like a bell IF its NOT cracked..
It sounds like you removed the screw ALREADY??
There is no "special" replacement screw.. its either a Bristol or a Torx.. You'd be hard pressed to find an Allen headed one now-adays.
The tool you used to "almost" get the screw out is ACTAULLY a 2 piece kit.. a bushing that screws down into the housing that captures the ball of the screw & holds it centered & then the torx bit itself..
I guess a "KIT" is a bad reference.. you have to order the pieces separately .. but its a 2 piece set-up..
 
For those reading this thread & haven't already broken their screw>>
The bushing P# is 21178 & the MODIFIED torx bit is P# 24992.
I'd be doing an injustice if I didn't tell you fellas that its a MODIFIED Torx bit..
Its cut down so its not tapered..
 
I forgot the camball screw #'s..
Bristol> 15438
Torx> 21134
& the latest update screw is a 33627
ANY of the 3 will work for your situation.. basically, its whatever they have in stock..
 
One more thing to note, the very LATE 3020 and 4020 pumps used round heel governor weights instead of the sharp heel weights the early models did. Round heel EID retainer is 27984.
 
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