Electronic ignition

I have a IH 454 and I'm thinking about installing electronic ignition in it, I would like to know the pros and cons of doing this.

If you are talking about the Pertronix unit that simply replaces the points and condenser, I have done it on a few of my tractors. I like it. All pros, no cons. It will work best with solid core wires, which are what was on my antique tractors to begin with. Pertronix recommends their own spiral wound solid core plug wires. I've had good luck with the original solid core wires that came with the tractors. Carbon core suppression wires are not recommended.

The coil needs to be at least 3 ohms. The one on your IH454 may already be 3 ohms. If it isn't, a simple ignition resistor in series will fix you right up. Or you can change to a 3 ohm coil.

I have converted two of my tractors over to the Pertronics ignition. First one, ordered the package deal ( module, hi-output coil, resistor, and spark plugs ) also installed new RF suppression wires. No issues what so ever with that one. Second tractor, I ordered from a different vendor and installed only the module along with the suppression plug wires. The Pertronics web site gave me the part number for the module for distributor I had which I used to order it with.

After installation, second tractor ran rough for 30 seconds and died. Still had spark but could not restart. I called the vendor from which I had gotten the first kit, and after checking the distributor number, was told I had ordered the wrong module. I know this company gets some negative comments ( starts with a D )but after replacing it with a different part number module, tractor started and ran great.

You really need to know what you have as far as, distributor #, coil ( internal or externally resisted ) plug wire type
before ordering. Also rotation of distributor matters. If your distributor has a dust cover between the points and the cap, you will need to enlarge the hole in it for most applications. Most older tractors have a lot of wear on the weights and springs for the mechanical advance. You won't see this till you remove the plate that the points mount to. Also if the distributor shaft bushings are worn, it does not really affect the module operation as there is no point gap to be concerned with.

The only downside to the conversion is when it goes bad, there's nothing you can do to get it going again. Having to wait days for parts isn't fun, and just module kits are close to a hundred plus shipping. You can file and gap points and be going again in minutes.

Beagle

There are also high voltage type electronic ignitions that can be triggered off the Pertronix or points or reluctor. I have used a CD unit and hybrid unit on a Farmall Super C. When I used a hand crank the engine practically cranked itself. I also have a number of HEI modules from 1975- mid eighties GM cars that I am going to try. They can be adapted with little difficulty depending on your expertise. A similar but larger module was used on Dodge and Chrysler cars in the 70s, but it used a magnetic reluctor to trigger the module. I don't know if the Pertronix will trigger it, but it might.

Pertronix also has their own ignition boxes which will trigger off their unit, points, and all of the others I have mentioned.

I knew I was missing something in my post,

SPARK PLUG WIRE HAS A CARBON IMPREGNATED FIBERGLASS CENTER CORE WITH SPIRAL-WOUND STAINLESS STEEL ALLOY.

This is whats recommended.

I changed my Oliver 1550. The points always gave me fits in that tractor. If not for that,I don't see any reason to switch. All of my other tractors still have point ignition. All the electronic ignition did was make it as good as them. When I called and ordered it,they told me that just for everyday use there was no need to upgrade to a hotter coil.

My experience with Pertonix is that the tractor starts better and runs better in all kinds of weather. Also spark plugs will stay cleaner and last longer. I haven't experienced any downsides.

I see no problem with them at all.

With the declining quality of aftermarket points and condensers, it's about the only choice for a dependable working tractor.

I put the Pertronix standard (cheapest) kit in a lot of my stuff. IH 3414 backhoe. John Deere 1010 crawler. Ford 641 tractor. Crosley/Homelite outboard motor. Zero problems and all run and start better. Note - there are three versions of Pertronix. All of mine are the lowest price, standard energy models.

I agree with the no need for the high voltage coil.

From what I understand, the plug gap, the rotor to cap terminal gap, and wire resistance is what determines the voltage. The voltage builds until the arc occurs, after that it's over.

A higher voltage coil would allow you to continue to run with worn plugs, and higher resistance wires. But eventually something would give, like burning through the rotor or out the side of the coil tower.

An elec switch, although higher in cost then points and condenser in the "short run" at least and subject to switch and coil ratings and other factors, can have the capacity to produce a higher energy spark absent the bouncing ringing and continually deteriorating/burning mechanical points problems HOWEVER you may be able to file a set of burned points and get back to the barn while an elec switch failure can leave you stranded.......Many report improved starting and other advantages after installation of an elec switch while a good quality set of points and condenser can still provide excellent service ITS YOUR CHOICE........

You can still use the old stock coil or subject to the switch rating install an after market so called high energy high voltage coil which may improve performance even more, but check with Pertronix to insure a proper switch and coil (as well as recommended plug wires) match.

John T

I put the Pertonix unit on my Ford 860 and never looked back. I buy Accel solid core sets and make my own plug wires.

I installed the Pertronics kit on my tractor and I couldn?t be happier. I used the Flamethrower coil and gapped the plugs out to .040 to increase the spark arc. This required adjusting the timing ahead a bit, but it runs really well. I also pulled the 160 thermostat and installed a 195 degree unit. I should have used the 180 as that is where it wants to run anyway. It runs really clean and doesn?t seem to be as thirsty as before.

Aaron

I put it on my FE35 with a Standard engine about ten years ago. Works as advertised. I'm happy. TDF

I put just the Pertronix module in a Ford 3000 about 12? 13? years ago and ran it for about 3 years then sold the tractor.
The guy who bought it still calls me on occasion for advice on tractor stuff and has become kind of a phone friend.
I still always ask him how "my" tractor is doing and he always tells me he still hasn't had to pop the distributor cap off of it.

Yes! I put Pertronix on my 1970 Ford 3000. Also with the flamethrower coil,new spark plug, new spark plug wires, new rotor cap and new distributer cap. Had to adjust timing and it runs great! Well worth the money!

The higher KV coil has the capability of higher KV if and when it may be needed. With all the stars in the universe aligned at idle no load KV will be steady under any other conditions KV rises and falls as the air and fuel mixture change.

The higher KV coil has its advantages but I doubt folks would ever know it when it did its thang other than on a cold start with a cold engine cold fuel cold air low battery supply and cylinder pressure. Probably the biggest benefit is its easier to keep running cold when the coil has to produce higher KV demand. When you accelerate the KV will spike high if it did not the engine will fall on its face like a bad accelerator pump. A standard coil is normally all that's needed it will in cress with demand enoufh under most conditions.

I am a firm believer of gaping the plugs at factor specification that was engineered into the system. I don't see any benefit of gaping them wider other than overworking the ignition system.

When you get time look up "snap throttle test places more demand on the secondary ignition"

The only down side I'm aware of is that if the electronic ignition dies there's no running down to the local NAPA and getting parts to fix it. It's buy a new unit and wait for it to arrive.

(quoted from post at 09:34:26 11/30/17)
The only down side I'm aware of is that if the electronic ignition dies there's no running down to the local NAPA and getting parts to fix it. It's buy a new unit and wait for it to arrive.

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That's a good reason to keep a spare set of breaker points as a backup. A mechanical breaker will do until the trigger can be shipped.

When I put a point triggered CD ignition in my sister's car I put spare set of points in her glove box. The old points broke after 70,000 miles when she was on the interstate. A passing motorist found the new set, replaced the broken ones and off she went. Lucky timing and a good Samaritan.

Put Pertronix on Farmall H this spring. Two of them went bad sitting in the shop. Had std. wires on with one kit and auto wires on with other kit.Both went bad ,but replaced by Pertronix. Went back to point set up. Starts and runs perfect now. So,really not sold on electronic ign. now.

Most of the add on breaker point triggered electronic ignitions have a switch to return the system back to the Kettering system.
This has two purposes,

1. If the electronic ignition quits working it is a check to see if it is
because of some mechanical failure of the points etc. It should
checked occasionally anyway as a comparison.

2. If the electronic ignition black box quits working you can switch
back to the Kettering system while parts are coming or you can
throw it away.

Put the Pertronix on my 53 Super A, along with an internal resisted coil and got rid of the ballast resistor...and I could tell the starting difference, right off the bat. Being a "Mopar" guy...there was always 2 things that you carried in your trunk back in my youth.... a spare Control Module which at the time was like 19 bucks at K-Mart, if you wanted the standard type(Not the Direct Connection HP unit, usually orange in color) and a ballast resistor. If your engine shut down...one of these, were normally the issue, especially if it rained and hit the ballast resistor. I did, have to adjust timing after the install to get rid of a bit of sputter at idle..a little advance..but now......2 turns..and it starts. Ebay cost to me...was like 63 bucks. Points be darned..unless...you are trying to be all OEM>..Just my opinon.

Being a "Mopar" guy...there was always 2 things that you carried in your trunk back in my youth.... a spare Control Module which at the time was like 19 bucks at K-Mart, if you wanted the standard type(Not the Direct Connection HP unit, usually orange in color) and a ballast resistor..

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The Pertronix units fail from time to time, as well, and, just like the Mopars you dealt with in the past, without warning, and typically at the worst possible time.

And you can't run down to the local Kmart for a new one!

Bob,
No, but you can keep a spare set of points
around in case the ei goes kaput.
For the first couple of years after I
installed ei in that 3000 I kept a new set
of points and a rotor handy. Never did
need them so I used them on another
tractor.