newhaven

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Just converted to 12 volt system, new amp gage, re wired everything except the lights, I have a battery drain not sure where to start. Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 14:45:13 10/23/17) Just converted to 12 volt system, new amp gage, re wired everything except the lights, I have a battery drain not sure where to start. Thanks
isconnect things/wires one at a time until the drain ceases. That will isolate the drain for you.
 

+ battery wired to starter, from starter to ignition switch, + to coil, alternator to amp gage, amp gage to ignition switch ??
 
The alternator is wired to the non-battery side of the amp meter. (which needs to be reversed to work with neg ground) this same terminal is connected
to the key Bat terminal, and, through a 15 amp fuse, to the lights. The other side of the Amp gauge is connected to the starter big terminal from the
battery. If it is a one wire alt, disconnect that first to see if it stops the draw. The diagram included is for an H or M, but all letter are similar.
Jim
Diagram if it works.
 
How are you checking for a drain?

If checking with a volt meter, it will show a few volts drain, that's normal, won't hurt anything.

But if you get a spark, or enough to burn a test light, that is a drain.
 
I think it is normal to have a very slight amp draw through the alternator when not running. I'm talking fraction of
an amp. Battery should not go dead for many months. Can you measure amps by putting your meter in the battery circuit?
If not, get ahold of a multimeter that has the ammeter function.
 
(quoted from post at 15:51:13 10/23/17) There should always be power to the big "BAT" terminal, and terminal 2.

But no power to terminal 1 with the ign off.
Just checked have 13 volts the alternator with ignition off
 
If it is a one wire alternator, (that output wire being the only connection) it would be expected to to find battery voltage there.
To assess the leakage (if any) from the battery to the Alternator, Disconnect the alternator at that big terminal, and check from
it to the wire with an amp meter. Set it to 10 amps, and then touch the leads. Keep reducing the amp setting on the meter. If
more than 150 milliamps, it is drawing more than expected. A volt meter should show less than a volt using the same connections to
the stud and disconnected wire. Jim
 

I have been told a 1 wire alternator, or a 3 wire for that matter, can't possibly drain a battery with the ignition off if it's correctly wired as detailed above. Yet, I have had 2 tractors that did just that. There is a diode made to fit in the alt wire that limits back drain from the alt. I've been told this is totally unneeded, yet it's recommended by alt shops I've dealt with. I'm not going to pretend to know the correct answer, I just know using that diode stopped my drain.
 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs

My hot tip for today put a rubber ban over the selector to remind you to switch your meter off of AMPS those two fuses in the pix are not cheap.

5118.jpg
 
"There is a diode made to fit in the alt wire that limits back drain from the alt. I've been told this is totally unneeded, yet it's recommended by alt shops I've dealt with."

With a Delco 3 wire alternator, a kick start voltage is applied to #1 pin on the edge connector to start the alternator charging. Once alternator kicks on, voltage from internal diode trio supplies power to the regulator to sustain operation.

#1 wire connects back to the switch output which also feeds the ignition coil. When the engine is switched off, the diode trio in the alternator continues to supply power and can feed back through the switch and continue to power the ignition preventing the engine from shutting down.

A diode, lamp, or resistor in the #1 line to the switch are three methods of blocking or limiting backfeed current to the switch and ignition and allowing the engine to shut down.

Voltage to #1 pin is switched on and off by ignition switch. Large output stud and #2 pin are connected to battery source and are always hot whenever the battery is connected.
 

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