9N is home

Got the 9N home, just bought it Saturday. Motor is stuck, but I’ve started in on some of the tips and techniques I’ve read here to get it freed up—if at all possible.

Drained almost full tank of fresh gas from it, took out the battery and noticed it’s positive ground. Kinda weird, but ok. Battery itself is an 8 volt and I’m guessing this was a 6 volt system. More strangeness.

Looks like very good rubber on rear, but it’s old. I see some cracks and so on. Everything holds air, so that’s good. Not like the tractor is going to do any work, so I’m not worried about it. It’s retired now.

It’ll be outside for the winter until I can get a good tractor/wood shed built—and even then it’ll still be in freezing temps. A little bit of green hue to the coolant, was wondering if there’s a way to winterize a non-running motor? I want to make sure there’s antifreeze all through the engine. I opened a petcock sticking out the left side of the block, assumed it was for coolant. Nothing came out.

All in all, very happy with the new arrival. I’d appreciate any suggestions or thoughts about keeping the engine block from freezing/cracking in the cold months.

Drain all the coolant there may be a plug you can pull on block, fill cylinders with marvels mystery oil make sure crankcase and trans don't have water in them remove battery, cover and you are
all set for winter

Should be a petcock on the lower radiator some place, being it's lower than the engine.

The drain on the engine didn't drain? Might be full of rust flakes. Remove the plug all together and fish around with a wire to
stir up the rust and allow it to drain.

Positive is the way it came from factory and 8 volt normal to help with starting on the 6 volt system. Nothing Wierd about any of that. Ford use a resistor to cut point voltage to a bit over 4 volts they thought to keep from burning points, Think only manufacture to ever do that. Most put a full 6 volt to points so the 8 volt battery brought up the voltage at the points to what all others used with a 6 volt system to get spark for starting. As for the coolant remove the drain on block you trird to open and once the drain valve is out take a stiff wire and push into that hole, likley to be filled with rust and if it is you can feel it and keeping won working that wire untill you feel it breaking thru the crap in the block then if nothing still comes out take a air hose and blow air in, you should be able to feel the air comming out of the radiator, if you cannot then you have a major problem that the head will have to come off for. You might be able to flush out some of that crap with a water hose in that drain plug hole but not likely. If you can get air thru the system then you could fill with premixed antifreeze as that does not require an engine to run to mix it as using full strength and water does. That is a home built grill and the front wheels are from a Ford Car or pickup from 1936 to 1939, I am not sure about 1940 but 41 has the small hub 5 lug wheels same as the Model A.

Fill the cylinders with ATF works better then MMO and cost around half of what MMO does. Put the plugs back in and let I sit a week or 2 then pull the plugs and set a 12 volt battery in and use short fast taps on the starter button while watching the crank shaft pulley for movement. Over 50% of the tractor I have where locked up and that is how I freed them up and the count is over 30 of them I have done this to

Thanks for the suggestions and filling me in on where different parts of the tractor came from. Always good to know, as I like the history of things. Weather is good today so I'll pull out the petcock completely and check around inside. There was coolant in the radiator, but I also noticed what looks like welded repair to head. Head has not come off in long time, it appears. Already filled cylinders with ATF and will let it sit, no hurry. It's not going anywhere. I'll check back with any progress, thanks again.

OK let us be creative. Yes you can drain as much as you can get out
but considder this one. That little winged drain cock on the side of
the block. Take the radiorator cap loose FIRST!!!!! The new stick an
air hose nozzle into that valve. NOT FULL TILT. Just enough to make
things bubble really good. Close it and do the same with the one on
the bottom of the radiator. Just enough to make it bubble pretty good.
Now this is two fold. Not only will it stur up the crud, but also will
stir the antifreeze. If your system is way low, pour in straight
antifreeze and let a low bubbling of air stirr up the whole system.
Will mix it all. After ten or fifteen minutes give her a check with a
Presto antifreeze tester. I had to do this on a CUB Once. Worked!

Did you ever find the numbers stamped on the
engine block to figure out the year?