Case 4 bottom plow

Matt E.

Member
I'm going to look at a Case plow next week. Any ideas on the weight or width? I have a single axle trailer but may need to borrow a larger trailer.

The guy wants $350 for it but its been up for sale for a few months, might get it cheaper. Hydraulic lift, on rubber, coulters appear to be there. I couldn't tell by the pictures what wear there is on the bottoms. If it is in decent shape, this is cheaper then replacing parts on the IH three bottom I have from my father. Its pretty worn out. The Case plow should be a good fit behind the IH 560.

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(quoted from post at 07:48:15 10/05/17) Manual shows 1600#. A 14' trailer should haul it....may need to load kitty corner to get on a 80" car hauler.

Thanks for the quick response! Now to go take a look at it.
 
Heavier than you think. Get a tandem axle for safety. I tried hauling a 3 bottom on a single axle and got it home the 8 miles but thought the trailer was going to break down. And you need more length to balance the load, also longer than you think. Bought it as a parts unit for a 2 bottom steel wheel I was rebuilding for my Amish friend that pulls his with horses.
 
I hauled this Oliver 6 bottom pull type plow 600 mi from Kan. to N.E. Iowa this summer with no problems. If your single axle trailer is long enough it should work.---Tee
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That plow looks older than either of the two Case plows Dad had. One was 4-14 pulled by a 450 gas Farmall,
good match between tractor and plow, even with the Midwest plow harrow on the plow. Much more trash
clearance than the IH plows we had been using, namely #8 3-14 and 4F-43 4-14 fully mounted Fast Hitch.

Other plow was a slightly older 5-14 with the Midwest plow harrow modified to cover all 5 bottoms. But the
POS 4010 couldn't pull it so the back bottom was removed and it was used as a 4-14 for four years.

The Case plows compare very favorably to IH #60 and #70 plows. That Case plow would be a nice plow for
your 560.
 
I've heard good things about Case plows, namely that they pull easily and have good clearance. I have a IH #60 three bottom and in the sandy clay at the farm in Montana the 560 pulls it in 3rd direct pretty easily. Dad liked to putt along in 2nd but I didn't want to spend all day so when he would leave me alone, I'd kick it up a gear. But he isn't around anymore to direct work so I just have his wisdom to work on.

I also have a WD-9 that I'd like to eventually match up with a 4 bottom. It has very wide rear tires so I think I'd have to keep it out of the furrow to plow and just run right next to it. Would it be possible to adjust the hitch on a Case plow to allow for the plow to be in the furrow and the tractor just out of it? Or does it have to be dead center? Maybe move the drawbar over towards the furrow? Adjust both a little? Never tried to plow without everything directly in line with the center of the tractor and plow.
 
When I was a teenager the neighbor bought a new 4010D with a 5-16 semi mount plow. He plowed many years with this setup. He never complained so it must have worked good. This was clay and heavy gumbo soils.
 
A single axle trailer is probably a 3,500# axle with a trailer weight of 1,200# for rated load of 2,300# but that is if everything is balanced perfectly. I have a trailer with 2 of the 3,500# axles for rated weight of 7,000# less the 1,500 that trailer weighs for rated to carry 5,500# but I had 3,000# tractor on it once and thought it was going to break it to pieces, No longer will I put that 3,000# load on a trailer rated to carry 5,500#.
 
Plow harrow on a 5 bottom plow pulls like a sixth bottom. Our 4010 was slightly used, about 4-5 years old when we got it, already had the 4020 kit in it. Dad about died the first day we plowed with it. I Was down in 2nd & 3rd gear plowing 8-10 inches deep with 5-14 with harrow. Dad came out after 4-5 hours with a Pepsi and we shut it down to check the oil. Oil had been right at full mark when I started, then dipstick had 2 quarts low line about an inch down, and bottom of dipstick half inch lower. Pulled dipstick, wiped it clean, replaced it and pulled it again, bone dry! Dad ran back to the house and got 4 quarts of oil. 3 brought it up to full mark. I still had almost a half tank of fuel left! It burned 5 quarts of oil per tank of fuel all spring for the next two years! Pulling our little 12 ft disk it burned less, about 1-1/2 to 2 quarts per tank, cultivating with 4-row frt mounted cultivator or pulling our #30. combine it would burn a quart a day and half a tank of fuel. It had to have been Dusted before we bought it. Guy selling at auction said "It burns a LITTLE oil". We nursed it along for 2 years and Dad had a local repair shop put M&W sleeves & pistons in it, rebuilt the head, new main & rod bearings, recondition the rods. Same guy paid us a housecall the one spring, rebuilt the injection pump. Some Idiot that had no idea what he was doing had been in the pump. Even though Dad had one of the self-proclaimed Best Deere diesel tech's tune it up a couple weeks after we got it he sure never had it on a dyno, was making 65-70 hp tops. Dad had the guy rebuilding the pump set it for 100-105 hp, we picked up two gears pulling the plow or disk! Till it popped the head gasket that fall plowing. That winter it got rebuilt. Farm was being sold that following summer, Dad rented the place, had no intention of buying. Was mowing weeds with the 4010 & 6 ft bushhog when the pto tried to shift from 540 to 1000. Same repair shop fixed that, and was able to sell the tractor for us. Young guy who bought it had an M&W turbo put on before it left the shop. About 8-10 months later the young guy hunted Dad up and wanted him to pay for all or at least half of the bill to rebuild the rearend/transmission. Guess he didn't know what "Where Is/As Is" meant. Tractor was an absolute Money Pit. It needed to be shipped to China and recycled into paperclips! It was a Good Day when it could run back to the house under it's own power.

I worked for a neighbor running 3 4020-D, 4320, 4230, etc and very seldom added a quart of oil to any of them.
 

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