Grease Notch on Throw-Out Bearing?

I did a Z-split on my Oliver 550 and ordered a new throw-out bearing from Reliable Aftermarket Parts Co. The original bearing is an Aetna #A2469-3 which has a grease notch. The replacement came in a TISCO box, #KS5022 and the bearing is marked Aetna but has no bearing number. The new bearing does not have a grease notch.

I've contacted Reliable, Tisco, and Aetna for clarification and received conflicting information from all three. Supposedly, the new bearing is better because it is 'sealed' and doesn't need to be greased, which prevents over-greasing from contaminating the clutch plates. I have my doubts.

What do you guys think? Use the new bearing w/o grease notch or return it and order one with a grease notch?
Thanks,
John

As little as some of us use these old tractors, the new bearing we last a long time.

I will agree in that the majority of greasible throw out bearings rarely live longer because they can be greased. Old grease that gets hard and dirt/grit from the clutch usually make them not take grease for long. Even worse is over greasing them.

So I will take a good quality sealed bearing myself.

Hello JohnnyjohnsoninWI,

Sealed bearings are lubed for life, use it,

Guudo.

I would use the grease able one! Grease it one pump at each oil change.

generally speaking, a sealed bearing will be greased with a much higher-quality synthetic grease, rather than the general purpose chassis grease we all have in our grease guns. You'll be fine with it.

I don't know what to say about the bearing ?
But as an added note I split an Oliver 55 IIRC ? and that was one of the easiest tractors to split in fact due to that Z design ! The one I did the fingers were out of adjustment and it ran out of pedal adjustment and would slip. Owner was smart and quit running it. Clutch disk and plate looked like new yet. Book finger adjust specs. didn't seem to be correct so I winged it and made up my own adjustment and lucky it all worked out nice.

I agree with Mike. I worked for an Oliver dealer and we had to adjust the height of the release levers. So if you have questions my e-mail is open. J.

Hey Everyone,
Thanks for your replies. I'll probably go with the bearing I have; the one without a grease notch. Someone made a good point, it will outlast me.
Take care and have a great day,
John

Do you understand what Mike and I mean by you need to adjust your pressure plate before you install it on the tractor.

I understand what you mean about adjusting the fingers on the pressure plates, but you didn't offer any specs to adjust to. Prior to the split, the clutch worked fine, so I don't think it needs adjusting. Is there something I can check before reassembling the tractor to determine if the fingers need adjusting?

The reason I split the tractor is because the PTO clutch wouldn't work. Once I got it apart, I realized the PTO clutch was so loose that, when disengaged, one of the fingers which wraps around the adjusting nut (side furthest from the clutch) had slipped past and was digging into the side of the nut. I couldn't engage or release the PTO, it just felt locked up. I've reinstalled the PTO clutch and engaged it many, many, times and it seams to work fine, now. Knowing what I do now, I probably could have unjammed it through the access cover on the bottom of the tractor.

I purchased this tractor from my neighbor; his weekend vacation farm, actually. Prior to my purchase, it sat in his yard and I hadn't seen it move in 15 years. It sat on three flat tires and wouldn't start. I was surprised to see that the engine clutch and PTO clutch were virtually in new condition. I don't know the history of the tractor, but I suspect the clutch was rebuilt just before my neighbor purchased the tractor and then he hardly ever used it. All the clutch plates were clean and dry and looked like new. I decided to install a new throw out bearing just to be sure. For some reason, it doesn't seam right to go to all the trouble of splitting a tractor and not install at least one new part.

Thanks,
John

Send me an e-mail I worked for a dealer for 16 years and I can give you a check list while you have it apart. J.