Help me start my tractor

farmerjohn

Well-known Member
I have a FARMALL Super C that was restored 15 years ago, then was used lightly in parades and small jobs, then through circumstances got parked in the barn about 10 years ago and has not run since. I want to get it running again. Installed a new 6 V battery, checked the oil, gas tank was bone dry so I put some gas in. Turns over fine but no attempts to fire. What is my next step? I know some basic mechanics but not much about carburetors and engines. How do I troubleshoot?
 
Google youtube of changing points on a Farmall. Don.t change them, clean them with very fine abrasive paper then clean with a folded dollar bill. Jim
 
I recently worked on a Farmall "B" that had the same symptoms. The B had a magneto, and I didn't realize that the rotor does not have a flat spot on it. That means, you can take the rotor off and it can be put it back on in any position. When that happens, you have to re-time it. I replaced the points, condenser and put a new kit in the carburetor. After finally getting the timing right, it fired on the first half turn. Word from the wise, I spoke with the Lord briefly.....several times.
 
So this motor has not been turned over in 10 years? Did you remove the sparkplugs and squirt a little oil in the cylinder? Or just add gas and crank it over? I can't help but wonder how dry those cylinder walls are.
 
If you know some basic mechanics I'll assume you checked the oil, antifreeze and such. Three things to check, at least one is missing: compression, fuel, spark. I'm also assuming it's just been setting, nobody has been tinkering with timing or anything like that. A couple squirts of oil in each cylinder is a good idea too. Spark is easiest to check, pull one plug and hook the plug wire back to it, hold it next to the block and see if it sparks as the motor turns. Compression requires a tool, it screws into each spark plug hole, crank the motor with the throttle wide open until the gauge maxes out, each cylinder should be over 100 psi and all should be close to the same. If they are all low see above about oil in the cylinders. Fuel is hardest because you can't see it, and might not be able to smell it even. But if you take a can of brake cleaner or other highly flammable stuff, shoot about a 3-second spray into the carb intake, and the tractor then tries to fire, you have a fuel problem. BTW you didn't pull my favorite trick and forget to turn on the gas, did you?
 
As others said, put a little oil in the cylinders.

Then check for spark at the plugs. If no spark, clean the points.

There is a plug in the bottom of the carb. With the fuel valve at the tank open, remove the plug, be ready to catch the flow in a clean glass. Should get a full flow, not a drip or no flow. If dripping or no flow, there is a fuel restriction or the needle valve is stuck. Start disconnecting the sediment bowl, fuel line first. If no fuel there, the blockage is in the tank. If fuel to the carb, the problem is in the carb. Ease it apart, see what's wrong, they are simple, easy to repair.

If you did get flow, look at what was caught. Check for water, rust, whatever is in the glass is also in the tank and carb.
 
A crisp, NEW dollar bill- older bills are dirty, and don't have enough "tooth" to do the job.
 
Not so my friend, this one can be installed by meshing the gears in the full 360 circle. This gear is on the base of the rotor "immediately inside the distributor cap!" I never seen one like it before, and missed it on the first time I tried to clean the points. Noticed it the second time.
 
Teddy52food. I went up to the farm yesterday and the magneto says it is "Standard Magneto" made in Chicago, IL. Dad bought this tractor @ 5 years ago, so.....I guess it is not stock.
 

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