Massey 2135

Greetings to any knowledgeable Massey peeps. I recently purchased a 2135 39 hp gas. So far the only problem is it won't stay running much past 15 min or so before it coughs, sputters, and dies (Starts right back up as soon as it cools down). When I first purchased, it only ran about 3 - 5 min. I suspected carburetor issues, so the guy took it back, rebuilt the carb, and it seemed to run fine. However, I've only begun to really work it this weekend and have now discovered it won't stay running, Is it still a carb issue?

Thanks is advance
MF Newbie

Have you checked the valve lash? If it's closed up, when everything
warms up to normal temps, your valves won't seat, and can cause
the engine to die till it cools off. And also check the fuel pump.

You'll need to do some diagnostics when the problem occurs.

Check for spark at the plugs. You can make a spark tester from an old plug, just break the electrode off the end. As soon as it dies, be ready to put the test plug on a plug wire, lay the metal part against a metal surface, crank the engine over and watch for a strong, blue spark. If weak or no spark, could be the points or condenser, coil heating up and failing, points out of adjustment, worn distributor bushing.

Also can be fuel related. There is a plug in the bottom of the carb. With the fuel valve on, engine not running, remove the plug and catch the flow in a clean glass. The flow should start as a full stream, then slow as the bowl empties. But it should continue to flow a stream, not slow to a drip or stop.

If the flow stops, there is a restriction between the tank and the carb. Check the screen in the sediment bowl, see if fuel will flow with the valve open and the bowl removed. If not, there is a restriction in the tank. There may also be a screen in the inlet elbow at the carb. If there has been an inline filter added, it may be too restrictive for a gravity flow system. Be sure the gas cap is vented. Even if it says "vented", try loosening it. It may be clogged or manufactured wrong. Also, be sure the fuel line is steel, not copper, is routed the most direct route with no kinks, and is as far away from the exhaust as practical.

Finally, look at the fuel that was collected. If it is contaminated with water or rust flakes, the same will be in the carb. It may need the tank cleaned out, and the carb disassembled and cleaned. The carbs are simple, don't be afraid of it.

Just remember it is(probably)a fuel issue,carb,line, tank, dirty shut off valve, etc. Be sure to look in the tank with a good flash light,it may scare you to see what is in the tank.

My 2135 had a similar problem, took a large gatoraide bottle filled with water with me, when the tractor did similar to what yours did. I poured the water slowly over the coil to cool it off, it started back up, got it back to the barn, and replaced the coil with a used, known good coil fixed my problem. Give it a try, you never know.

Just realized this model may have a fuel pump instead of gravity flow.

If it does have a fuel pump, try disconnecting the line between the pump and the carb. Direct the flow to the clean glass, start the engine. Should get a full, pulsing flow. Not much pressure, but a solid flow each time the pump cycles.

If not getting a good flow, check the supply to the pump as described above. Another diagnostic method is to remove the carb drain plug, install a barb fitting, loop a piece of clear vinyl tubing to a point above the carb bowl, leave the end open. You can now monitor the fuel level by watching the level in the tubing.

Like 504 says, check out the tank, easy to
do. I don't know how many times I've had a
wasp stuck in the small hole in the
sediment bowl or shut off valve, mostly
blocking gas. Take the line off at the
carb, see what kind of flow you have. If
that's ok, take the plug out of the bottom
of the carb, see what that looks like. My
brother was mowing with our Super 77 Oliver
yesterday and said it would run good for a
short time and then quit. Said it had good
flow to the carb, but poor flow out the
bottom. Found a flying ant plugging the
needle and seat. Got that cleaned out, good
to go. A lot of times a bad condensor will
make you think you have carb problems as
well.

Ross

Okay everyone, thanks for all suggestions. It's the old gravity feed updraft carb set up. The fuel line appears to be steel and routed away from hot components. The tank looks clean however, I did notice a very small amount of rust flakes in the fuel filter which is located just before the sediment bowl. The sediment bowl is clean, no sediment or flakes. It looks like the Coil has been replaced fairly recently. It's not even mounted, just laying loose on top of the starter solenoid, next to the old coil, which is still mounted. It was probably hard to get to due to the loader. Anyway, I will take the carb apart later and see what if any thing is in there, but I'm thinking not, since the carb has recently been rebuilt (2 weeks ago). I guess I am struggling with the idea that if it's a fuel line issue, why does it wait until the engine has been running awhile before stalling out?

Thanks again everyone!!!

The reason fuel issues sometime show up after running a while is possibly there is a fuel delivery problem to the carb. The bowl holds a certain amount of fuel. When stopped, or at idle, or under light load, the fuel is already in the bowl, and is being consumed at a lesser rate than it is coming into the bowl, so the engine continues to run. But once under load, it is possible the fuel is being consumed faster than it can refill the bowl, so eventually the level drops below the main jet, and the engine quits.

That's why you need to do the test which checks the flow through the carb by removing the drain plug. This can also be caused by a non vented tank, forming a vacuum and not allowing the fuel to flow, or a vapor lock condition from engine heat.

But... The coil, that has been replaced, and laying on the starter. It is possible the wrong coil could have been installed. If there is a part number on the coil you can research what voltage it requires or what the resistance across the terminals is.

Some coils require a resistor. If this coil needs a resistor, and there is not one, it will overheat. A normally operating coil will develop some heat, and pick up underhood heat, but you should be able to hold it without it burning your hand. Might be somewhat uncomfortable, but not hot enough that you recoil from it. If you have an ohm meter, the resistance across the coil + and - terminals, checked out of circuit, should be around 3 ohms for 12 volt operation. If it checks around 1.5 ohms, it needs a resistor, or replace it with a coil that does not need a resistor.

Thanks again good info.. I did want also mention the coil was just barely warm to the touch when I was going the through trouble shooting suggestions. Anyway, I'll hit it again this evening and see what I can figure out.

Next time it quits you can check for spark real quick, condenser inside the distributor can be bad. The 2135 gravity feeds the carburetor (no pump needed). Only time mine had carb trouble was when it got some stuff in the carburetor, so I put one of those clear plastic in-line fuel filters, no carb problems since.

Yeah no fuel pump on this model. I do have an in-line fuel filter just before the sediment bowl. I don't think its a fuel line issue. After it quit this time I actually heard a sizzling noise and saw some sparking in the area of the carb. It quit doing it before I could pinpoint exactly where it was coming from. I was afraid to start it again with out knowing what that could be, or is it an unrelated issue.

Since I don't have manual yet, I am wondering if anyone can tell me which coil I need... with resistor or no resistor?

Problem solved... it was a fuel issue. Embarrassingly the carb needed flow adjustment, which I thought had been done already. Sizzling wiring issue I believe was due to un tight connections at the coil and starter solenoid.

thanks again to all for the help.

Until next time,
MFnewbie