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I heard the pop, but I didn't shoot it........yet!

J

Jclifton1956

New User
I was working with my 49 8n in the yard about a week ago. I got off to do something and left it running. About 2 minutes later I heard a pretty loud pop . Didn't sound like a backfire, and it went dead. I ran everything electrical backwards and found the resistor was busted. I replaced it with identical one, checked fire to both sides of resistor and thought I was good. Wouldn't crank. I thought maybe I flooded it. Replaced plugs. Still won't hit. Fire doesn't look real good on plug I pulled out. Headed to replacing points next. Am I going in right direction? Pulled plug on bottom of carb and good stream of gas coming out. Any advice? :lol:
 
I assume you have 12 volt conversion and resistor is for coil. If you throw any more parts at it,I suggest points,condenser and 12 volt coil with built-in resistor(it will be printed on coil"no external resistor required"). I don't know about coils but I've had enough experience with Tractor Supply Co. points to know they are junk.
 
NO coil has an internal resister they are just made different period!!!!!!!!!!!!! Plus on a front mount N series tractor there is no true 12 volt coil they still need the oem resister
 
Trouble shoot then parts never the other way around.
Check your spark and make sure it is a good blue/white that will jump a 1/4 inch gap or more at all 4 plug wires. If spark is weak check and make sure the points are good and clean and gaped at 0.015 since it should be a front mount distributor. If points are good and gaped correctly when the ballast resister went it my have taken the coil side the square coils are known to be on the weak side and burn out pretty easy. You might also try a hot wire from the battery ignition side to the ignition side of the ballast resister and see if it will run. If it runs hot wired the problem is from the resister back to the battery and could be a bad ignition switch of a wire going bad
 
(quoted from post at 12:14:34 06/14/17) NO coil has an internal resister they are just made different period!!!!!!!!!!!!! Plus on a front mount N series tractor there is no true 12 volt coil they still need the oem resister
Click to expand...

Resistors come in many different sizes, shapes, and capacities. True, the ceramic ballast resistor that most of us are familiar with would not fit inside of a coil, but hat does not mean there isn't a resistor of some sort in there.
 
Look the coil over closely.

The pop you heard may have been the coil. Not sure if those are oil filled or epoxy, either way the coil could have shorted, made the noise you heard, and taken out the resistor.
 
9, 2, and 8N all have a factory resistor, even though they were originally 6V. Ford was weird at the time and intended their coils to work at 4 volts, their cars were the same way for awhile. Thought it was the weirdest thing when I ran into a resistor on a 35 Ford Cabriolet I was working on. First time I had seen a ballast resistor on a 6V system.
 
If your tractor is a '49, it has the front mount distributor pictured.
It requires the original wire wound ballast resistor that is
mounted on the back side of the dash. Not a ceramic resistor.

If you have a 12V conversion and replaced the square can coil
with a 12V version, you only need the original ballast resistor
with no other resistor. If you have a 12V conversion with the
6V coil, you need an additional resistor to drop current.

I would suggest you post on YT's N forum to get more specific
advice. The early N series were not like most other tractor ignitions.
Other than the fact that most were Kettering ignitions.

49714.jpg
 
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