Update On price of a 1995 F250 Diesel

I brought it from the owner less my repair bill. This will give my bud's 04 ram 3500 a break It needs tires not that they are worn out because they were made 28 week of 2002 :shock: I hate a diesel but will have to learn to luv'em... someone had seat covers made out of bath towels to cover them original seats look new... Its been kept in a garage. Worst case someone will come alone with a nice gasser I can swap with. My 94 GMC Z71 is gutless when it comes to hauling tractors/cars/trucks it should fetch 4/5K right EZ.

95 f250



My buds 04 ran 3500 its as sweet as it gets I as soon drive it as anything I have ever sit my arse in. I pulled a enclosed trailer with it 550 miles this week end it did not break a sweat. One thang tho you could not pay me to ride in the back seat it does not fit my arse at all.

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Once you drive the diesel awhile you won't want to go back to a gasser,I'd hate to give up my 1999 F-550 diesel for a gas truck.

I could get addicted to the power. and live with the stink
What's a oil drip every now and again its the mark of power ain't it...

Its gonna be a money pit to start off with I hope Ford still offers OEM coolant hoses... I need to pull the rear wheels off and check the rear brakes. Get all the neat stuff off my GMC and swap it over.

It has two fuel tanks ... BTW does anyone know off hand which one is the fail safe tank if there is such a thang..

Hobo:

I got the use of a Lady Frend's '95 F-250 7.3L Diesel 4x4 with manual 5-speed and only 72K original miles, when my truck was in the shop
getting a new engine. There's a rocker switch on the dash to switch between tanks (both read off the same fuel guage). I always kept the rear
tank full and ran off the front tank; that way if you run low on the front tank and there is no fuel station close by, you always have the
full rear tank as a back-up.

Doc

Dual tanks :x I will look into how they work. I had a 86 chebby (carburetor) with them a tank on each side of the truck never did like that set up. The fail-safe was the left tank best I remember.
My theory on dual tanks has always been use them are lose them.

I don't understand what you mean by Failsafe tank. The rocker switch tank selector is marked front and
back. Rear tank is little tank, about 20 gallon, front tank on a Super cab is bigger than what my regular
cab has I think. My tank is 24 gal. At 18-1/2 mpg I can go 814 miles between fuel stops.

If you get a drop of oil under the engine it's best to crawl under and see what's wet with oil. Having run
a truck like yours 21 years I would bet the adapter fitting for the engine oil dipstick to attach to the
oil pan is leaking. The o-ring inside the pan swells and slips out of its groove. There's videos on line
how to replace the o-ring, places online make repair kits. Engine must be removed to pull the oil pan so
the trick is to replace the o-ring without removing oil pan. Could be rear main seal but with low miles
doubtful.

You will learn to dislike gasoline if you keep that truck long enough. Those OBS Ford diesel trucks with
low miles don't stay for sale long. Put it on ebay or something and you could sell it for more than you
paid.

One tank will let fuel out without any current to it the other needs current going to it all the time to get fuel of it.If a fuse blows or solenoid goes bad the fuel in the one tank can't be used.At least that's the way my GMC 1 ton worked.

(quoted from post at 21:00:00 06/07/17) I don't understand what you mean by Failsafe tank. The rocker switch tank selector is marked front and
back. Rear tank is little tank, about 20 gallon, front tank on a Super cab is bigger than what my regular
cab has I think. My tank is 24 gal. At 18-1/2 mpg I can go 814 miles between fuel stops.

If you get a drop of oil under the engine it's best to crawl under and see what's wet with oil. Having run
a truck like yours 21 years I would bet the adapter fitting for the engine oil dipstick to attach to the
oil pan is leaking. The o-ring inside the pan swells and slips out of its groove. There's videos on line
how to replace the o-ring, places online make repair kits. Engine must be removed to pull the oil pan so
the trick is to replace the o-ring without removing oil pan. Could be rear main seal but with low miles
doubtful.

You will learn to dislike gasoline if you keep that truck long enough. Those OBS Ford diesel trucks with
low miles don't stay for sale long. Put it on ebay or something and you could sell it for more than you
paid.

Click to expand...

On the gas chevy's I have worked on I have see were the right tank would lose power the transfer switch would failsafe to the left tank. The switch would be on the right fuel sender they would run left tank out thinking they had plenty of fuel.

I think I would know if I went several hundred miles and the fuel gauge stayed on full, believe it are not some folks don't... :shock:

A Ford works different I will look into it...

Does a diesel fuel tank rust like a gasser when its used very little. I would think not. Remember I don't work on diesels are DID'N... Believe me this Diesel will make me eat crow :evil: All tips appreciated I got alot of catching up to do.

BTW I did repair a fuel leak on it sometime back the fuel filter cap was bad. Fuel looked good and clean I replaced the filter. This truck belonged to a retired machinist I am always hitting him up on questions about a lathe and mill so I did do little things for him on the engine. Other than the engine I work on everything else on a diesel pick up.

Diesels and cars, gas trucks don't mix one diesel in the shop stinks up every thing so try not to go there. It does not seam to be a issue with diesel owners they have became use to it.

2 year old post I found my answer today Fords failsafe is the rear tank..

When you switch to the front tank it applies power to the selector valve solenoid to switch to the front tank it needs power all the time to pull off the front tank... No power is needed to pull off the rear tank... If something go's a mist it will revert back to the rear tank the bad is it still may be reading the front tanks fuel level and lead you to believe it has plenty of fuel ...

I should have know the rear tank is the main tank and the front is the auxiliary tank...

There isn't a fail-safe tank on that truck. The selector valve is motorized, it's not an on/off solenoid. The motor simply reverses polarity to move a valve for front/rear. If the selector valve or selector switch fails, it will fail in whatever position it was in at the time. The same thing happens if you unplug it, it will be stuck on whatever tank it was currently selected to.

The older solenoid type selector valves weren't designed to be fail-safe its just part of their design. They could fail half way between tank selection, or fail on either tank depending on mechanical vs electrical failure.

Nice, straight truck. Friend has one about the same year, 7.3 and I think it has around 450K original motor. Body is shot, though.

Those OBS 7.3 DI trucks were pretty good, they made ok power and had decent reliability. Injectors were not a huge problem but you will probably get familiar with changing them, along with the wiring going through the valve cover gaskets and maybe glow plugs too. Turbo, injectors, and High pressure oil system is usually good for around 200k then its just a wild guess how much longer they will go. They are relatively easy to diagnose and fix, most repairs aren't difficult but could get expensive on parts.

Yes I did get this confused with a gasser It should have been again the law to put dual tanks on a pick up mean & evil. I have a 87 f150 in the shop they have thrown the parts cannon at it all that was wrong with it was the tank dash switch would go open and de-fraught to the rear tank. They said they never used the rear tank it was empty are it has just enough gas in it to spit a little. The power to the switch valve would go open but the gauge side still read off the front tank showing it was full and it was FULL slap full.

I have mentioned this deal a few times folks look at me like a deer steering in the headlights That s why it s important to check the suction side of a fuel pump all the way back to the tank