Off Topic- Arctic Cat ATV Carb/choke question

I have a 2003 Arctic Cat 400.

Could not get the thing to run right and could not get it to not pour gas out of the carb. Didn't run for a couple years and attempted to rebuild a couple times. Never could get the float set quite right. Long story short, I replaced the carb (brand new one).

Starts up, runs pretty decently (though feels a little under powered, but it is so long since I have run it regularly, I don't have a good feel for it.

Anyway, it only runs with the choke on full, or 7/8. As soon as I drop the choke, it dies. It also seems to idle higher than it should. Has trouble getting in gear. It is an auto. I have turned the idle down as low as possible, so I feel like that is related to the choke.

Also, the regular ignition system has been disabled by a previous owner, just has a push button, but does need the key on to run. Is this going to impact the choke function at all?

So.

1. I believe the choke functions and I must have a fuel issue? In terms of not enough fuel delivery. But it is a brand new carb...is there an internal or external adjustment for the fuel mixture?

2. How does the idle speed relate to this?

3. I read that the issue might be a cracked boot between the air intake and the carb - unfiltered air causing issue?

I don't know...just lost on this.

Tried a couple ATV forums...no responses...

Thanks again

Had a 2001 with the same issue, was the boot between the carb and engine. Had to look close to see the crack. Put on a new boot and things worked fine. Hadma terrible time with the screws tho, so be careful there.

with it running spray some WD40 or brake kleen on/around the boot, any change points to a cracked boot.
if no change,
look at the spark plug, should be bone colored, white= need a bigger main jet, black= smaller main jet. easy to change.
The use of the choke points to a lean condition.

Yes, do check for vacuum leaks.

There is also an idle mixture screw, it will be back toward the throttle plate, may have a cap or limiter over it, take it off and back it out about 1/2 turn.

Once you get it where it will somewhat idle, spray some carb and choke cleaner (not brake cleaner, has to be flammable) around the boot. Be careful not to get it in the carb throat or it will give a false reading. If there is a vacuum leak, it will change the idle speed when the cleaner is sucked into the engine.

I suspect this is a slide type carb? Has a plastic slide that rises up as the throttle is opened and RPM comes up?

If so, there is a tapered needle attached to the slide, hanging in the main jet. Take the top cover off the slide. There will be a spring holding the slide down. Take the spring out, pull the slide out.

Take the needle out. On top of the needle will be a tiny snap ring. Remove it (work over a clean surface, cause you WILL drop it!), move the snap ring to a lower groove on the needle. I would go all the way to the bottom groove. That will richen the mid/high mixture.

I've had to do that to every one of the new carbs like that, they would not run as sent. @#XX^%%@ tree huggers!

Thanks!
It appears to be a leak issue. I went to do the test for leak with carb cleaner and noticed that the carb was not fully and evenly pushed into that boot. Seemed a little cockeyed.
So I loosened the clamp, pushed it in and cranked her to start...naturally wouldn't without some throttle since I had the idle backed off all the way. Turned it up, seems to run pretty good. Didn't get too much time to check it through...

Thanks for the help...free fixes are the best kind.

Will be handy to have a good running wheeler for hay season.

Now onto the next project.