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threading by hand

M

MattCatlin

Member
HI I needed some 18 inch 3/4 inch square headed bolts for a cane mill restoration project. They are very expensive so I figured I'd fire up the forge and blacksmith them. I got the bolts made up just fine, but cutting the threads has been an unexpected challenge. I guess I never threaded anything this large before. I can't get the die started. I was thinking of buying a split die and starting the threads shallow and gradually deepen them. Before I waste anther 20 bucks on a die I'll never use again, think this will help or do I find a machine shop?
 
I the long run you might be better off having a machine shop thread your bolts. Done on a lathe a good operator can thread most anything.
 

Occasionally I have needed to grind a taper on the end of the bolt to get the die started.

Might also check the diameter of the bolt. It may be too large.
 
Well I just came from the cycling thread below so I'm a little distracted....

Anyhow, most of the tap and die sets we folk get are actually thread cleaners, they follow existing threads. A real starter tap and die would have a longer guide /guide hole to center the tool and keep it level, and tapered cutters to shave the threads in a bit at a time?

I'd guess you indeed would want the right tool for that, which would probably be expensive.

Paul
 
I always taper the end slightly when making threads. The bolts you buy are usually slightly tapered also. That being said double check rod diameter as die should fit over end of correctly sized rod.

Joe
 
At the place I retired from we had a threader that looked like a pipe threader, but a little different, worked great once you got it set up. A lot quicker than a lathe. Like others have said, check the diameter and grind a taper on the end, use oil and push like heck! I have a set of taps and dies that are over a hundred years old that would do it.
 
I think it was an Oster, if you google bolt threader there are lots of different options. I'm pretty sure you can get bolt dies for a pipe threader, but then your material turns, which is not always possible.
 
I've worked for bolt & nut companies for over 40 years now. As others have mentioned check your true diameter. Since you are cutting thread rather than rolling material to diameter the round adjustable die would be your best bet and you can cut the thread to meet the tolerance of the mated part. True cutting fluid{NOT WD40} would go a long way toward your effort.
 
Why not just buy 18" hex heads and forge the head square been done many times. Unless you were saying 18" bolts in general are very expensive. Just a thought.
 
Why not just use golden rod threaded rod. It is a grade 5 threaded rod.Then put square nuts on it. You could weld the nut on the head end then grind it back to look like a regular bolt. Less work and no threading.
The golden rod threaded rod will probably be a bit more money and will probably have to be gotten at an industrial supply house.
 
Years ago I purchased two sliding drawer cabinets containing various fasteners. Several drawers with square head bolts,
from 1/4 to maybe 1' in an assortment of lengths.

Post your email and I can send pictures.
 
I have never had good luck getting a thread cut with a die to run straight if it had to be more than a few diameters long. I try and cut most of my threads in the lathe. With the heads on the bolts already you would need to find a lathe with a big enough hole in the spindle though, or hold the head in a chuck and the end of the bolt with a steady rest.
 
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