case 530..do these bands look alright?

I bought it, had the motor rebuilt, put it on, while putting it in gear it grinded horabley like there was no clutch. It drove real slow and only in 1st gear. The next day I changed out the fluids to the equivilant of todays fluids. Started it. Same grinding problem. I drove it 20 foot, dig a hole, went to move it, and got NOTHING. Not having the repair manuel yet I figured it was the clutch. This backhoe has a wet clutch. Broke the tractor down again, took out the converter and hub the attached hub with clutch discs in it. Finally found out how to get them loose and people...I am no expert but they still have the little bumps on the material that makes up the discs. See pics below. But if these discs are ok...the WHAT is the problem? I have no clutch, and I now have no forward and no reverse.

pic 2

I also want to know...where my finger is pointing....are there more bands in that?

more pics

some more pics 2

Is this a
case-o-matic tractor? When you said it would not move was that at low idle and in case-o-matic or direct drive? You may not have had a problem except not knowing how to operate the tractor.
You do realize this unit operates like an automatic trans. in an auto until you put it in direct drive.

case 530ck backhoe is all I know. And I moved every lever on the thing more than just a couple of times so even if I didn't know how to operate it it should have moved. It's NOT driver error.

The device in the housing is a fluid coupling/torque converter. If it failed, it would act like it does. The probability splits between lack of apply pressure to the clutch you have taken apart. ot a blown Oring in its apply servo. The drive and driven disks look OK. The steel (driven I think) are getting warped from heat of not engaging, shown by the bright spots. They should have less than .001 variation in flatness. Jim

I had trouble with mine, it wouldn't move. It had a small piece of silicone in the valve the "clutch pedal" works. I know it's not a clutch pedal with a Case o matic but don't know what else to call it.

You remind me of a young lad out on a date with an older woman. You are pushing and pulling everything you can find, and have no clue what will happen. So far all that has happened is that you have gotten your face slapped.
You said on the Case forum that you didn't know what the converter pressure was. The first thing you should have checked. There is a gauge rite in front of you on the LH side of the dash. You apparently DO NOT understand how to operate a COM trans. The engine has to be brought back to an idle to put it in gear, (like an auto in a PU). The clutch pack that you have torn apart, simply locks the converter into a solid connection for roading a TLB 530CK tractor. All your loader work should be done in converter drive. The direct drive clutch you have dismantled has discs in it, no bands as you keep saying. I doubt that had anything to do with the problems you have described. Your problem was likely the relief valve in the converter charge pump, or the pump itself. but you are fare deeper than that now.
When you get your Case service manual, not an I&T; (Read IT). You are going to need to find, or fab an alignment gig to put the COM assy. back into the tractor also.
Once you get a better understanding of how this tractor operates, give us a holler on the Case forum, and the gang there will be a bit more willing to offer help.
The old saying goes, "You can lead a horse to water, BUT ------.
Loren

ya well....I was having to reverse engineer it....but I have a repair book now. And started on a jig. Came here BECAUSE I needed help working on it too find out why it wasnt working. Not because I knew how to work on it and knew what was wrong with it and just wanted to talk about it with people who already knew how to do it all if that makes sense.

Well, ACG pretty well beat me to what I was going to say. Those are disc and drive plates, look serviceable to me. Too bad you went to trouble to take all that apart. Those units are bulletproof as long as there is oil in the system.

Next in addition to manual, you better get pages 77 thru 84 of the parts book to make sure you have everything back in the proper place. Then, you can check easy stuff since you can NOT make a running pressure check. Pump guts ok? Filter passing oil thru? Dump and lock up valve working? broken check ball springs? gasket busted?

While you are waiting for printed info, GET THAT RUSTY CRAPPY CHAIN OUT OF THERE. One little flake of rust can cause lots of problems if not caught by filter. Go get a nylon sling it wont damage metal either. As an old mechanic told me years ago, when working in auto trans, cleanliness is next to godliness.

FYI, I have a 530CK like that. Great machine for limited use around farm and the like. Well built and very friendly to run, only down side is the 2 operator stations. Mine came from a flipper who let water in engine so the was redone but orig owner used a grease gun so loader still nice.

ok thanks Jim. I will get a sheet of glass and see if they have any variations.

pump guts are ok...I guess. I mean I put my finger over the end of the tube and strong suction was present. Filter is clear. Gunna check the Dump and lock up valve. Ball springs weren't broken. Gaskets weren't broken but now need replacing. Rusty chain yes...but going to clean everything before it goes back together.

Your getting some bum information.
Those multiple discs are part of the transmission/torque converter assembly.
The "direct clutch" is a single disc unit which locks up the torque converter.

That is in-correct info you are taking about the 800-830 COM units, smaller units were made different show me the single disc type in this parts breakdown on a 530
530 COM parts book

Item 8 A36260 and it's not sold separately components.

where can I get a clutch disc holder at, to line the discs up when putting them back in?