Rebuilding a 410E Automatic. Something I can do????

I just traded for a 1999 S-10 Blazer that is a AR car with under 100K on it. Body is in great shape. Reverse is out of the automatic transmission. It runs and pulls fine in all forward gears but shutters and will not move backwards at all. The rebuild transmission are going for the $1000-1400 range. I can buy a good rebuild kit for around $300-400. The torque converter should be fine as it will pull fine in the forward gears.

I have rebuilt many PS clutch packs and have done some older 400 turbo transmissions back in the non electronic shift days. Is this something I could reasonable be able to do or should I just bit the bullet and buy the rebuilt one to start with?

4160E transmission.

They are not terribly difficult to repair.
That transmission should be the 4L60
Some things to add to the rebuild list:
You should replace the separator plate between the valve body and the case. Upon inspection you will find that one or more of the check balls has beat itself into the plate - if not all the way through. This is a major cause of this transmission failing.
Also note that it is a very tight fit to get the front band in. This usually becomes a wrestling match, but it is doable.
The main point of failure of a torque converter is the lockup clutch inside. Even a failed converter will pull just fine until it comes time for it to lock up. If the transmission has metal flakes in it or has burned fluid in it, I would recommend that you shell out for a rebuilt converter. They are not all that expensive. should be under $200.
The rear end of that trans is basically a THM350.

If you are intending to rebuild, you stand to save a lot of money. BUT, cleanliness is important, and you should disassemble and replace ALL O-rings and lip seals as well as the front and rear seals. That includes the low/reverse piston seal in the rear of the case.

Be sure to use the correct oil. The transmission will work fine with ANY oil that you put into it, but may not work for long if you put in the wrong oil.

I would also recommend purchasing a manual for it. ATSG publishes some excellent manuals for most transmissions. They run about $40, but they contain a wealth of information like power flow, locations of check balls, the function of each valve, and disassembly and assembly procedures.

So, there is my few cents' worth for what it is worth.

They are not all that complicated. Please don't reuse the old converter. It's worth the money to start fresh. A small amount of metal in it or too much wear in the clutch will have you taking it out to do again at least change the converter because it will still shutter on lockup if it has too much wear on it. Not worth the added labor to take it back out just for a converter change. I cussed the same trans in one after I had it rebuilt and decided to save $200 on a converter only to take it out again for a converter change. Other than that go for it. Change the shift solenoids too. Even if you think they are ok. They too can cause weird drive-ability problems when not working just right. At a 100K I'm surprised it's gone bad. Those are pretty good transmissions.

Greg

Fairly simple trans. Watch how it comes apart, keep everything clean. You are going to need some seal installers and resizers to install the turbine shaft and stator support seals. You sure it has all forward gears? Sunshell failure is most common cause for loss of reverse, but won't have second or fourth, either. Broken sunshell will also usually cause a light whine at idle. If you are actually only missing reverse, the reverse input clutch or low/reverse clutch is out, neither are common failures. If it will engine brake in manual first, low/reverse clutch is ok. In addition to the rebuild kit, you need to replace the sun shell and forward sprag during the rebuild, both of those are high failure parts. Forward sprag may feel ok, but hang up under load, causing the 3/4 clutch to fail. I would also highly recommend replacing the valve body or getting a Sonnax TCC repair kit, they are prone to wearing the TCC apply bore, which causes TCC shudder and/or a P1870 slippage code. There is an easily overlooked o ring in the bottom of the input drum, make sure it is replaced. Make sure your kit comes with new one piece pistons for the input drum, they will be for the overrunning clutch, forward clutch, and 3/4 clutch. The one piece pistons are a direct swap if yours happens to still have aluminum pistons with separate seals.

One thing that I would warn you about is the way clutch piston packs are assembled. I think ( but may be wrong) in most tractor applications the springs are caged with bolts. In an auto tranny they are retained by snap rings. So you have to find a way to compress the springs to remove the snap ring. An arbor press with some various sized bearing races etc. can be an improvised tool for the removable packs. All thread and some other xxxx-engineering will be needed to get the low/reverse piston seals changed in the back end of the case.

Sounds like you might have been in one or two.

Did all the transmissions at a Chevy dealer for several years. 4L60E was my flatrate bread and butter. Got out of dealers in '09 because they started to make a person beg to get paid for trans work. Wouldn't touch a trans at a dealer for what they pay now. I still have friends in that world, for what they get paid, the car would stay broken if it were me.

From following your repair posts id say you could do it yourself. A 4l60e is a pretty basic unit. Only advice I can give is do yourself a favor and do NOT reuse the old converter. It is nearly impossible to get all the contamination out of them.
Sprint 6 I know exactly what you mean about begging to get paid. Wrenched several years for a GM dealer. That is why I got out of it. Now I work for GM on the assembly line and sometimes I think about going back to wrenching lol.

4L60E is just a TH400 with overdrive.

You are thinking of the 4L80E and 4L85E. Those are a TH400 with an
overdrive unit behind the front pump. Some of the parts even
interchange behind the overdrive clutch. The 4L60E is based on a
TH350 powerflow wise, but no parts interchange. Only things the
same between those two is the shift shafts and cooler line connections
are in the same place relative to the bellhousing face.

That is a common failure of that era 4L60e trannys, broken sun shell causes no reverse. You could do it, but if it were me I would get the rebuilt unit. One of the most frustrating things is getting it all back in and ready to go, and having something not right. Then you have to start all over and try to find whats not right.

Sounds like snake oil fix, however recently read about guy putting acetone in to loosed stuck valves in automatic transmission. I sure would not try it unless I was ready to replace anyhow unless it worked. OK B&D Let me have it. LOL

No. A 4L60E is a TH 350 with an overdrive.

The 4L80E is the TH 400 with an overdrive.

Cjackman what assembly line. I am in Arlington texas. Been with GM 18 years and 3 plants.

I loved doing automatics. I worked at a Dodge dealer for years. The 41TE was my bread and butter. I got out in 03 and teach now.

I am at the truck plant in Ft Wayne Indiana. Started at the foundry in Defiance ohio.