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Chains/binders... Where's everybody buying them?

D

d17man

Member
Good day all, just purchased a new trailer and would like to get it stocked with a set of chains and binders. Just wondering what's the best bang for the buck/good quality. I figure harbor freights probably the cheapest but a little skeptical of them. I don't mind spending a little more for something if it's better quality.
 
(quoted from post at 14:28:18 03/15/17) Good day all, just purchased a new trailer and would like to get it stocked with a set of chains and binders. Just wondering what's the best bang for the buck/good quality. I figure harbor freights probably the cheapest but a little skeptical of them. I don't mind spending a little more for something if it's better quality.
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I got mine here.

[/url]http://www.americanriggers.com/[/url]

All USA Made:

Ratchet Binders 9600lb (will need to call as all are not listed)
Grade 100 chain cut to lengths I wanted (4 at 10 foot each)
Grade 80 hooks

Have used these for the past year with no issues. Like with any ratchet binder they do need a little lube from time to time.

I also have a set of Harbor Freight 5600lb ratchet binders and some of their trucker chains that I have used for about 5 years on some smaller tractors and they have held up so far even on some rough roads (sometimes lack of a road)

Hope this helps
 
Grade 70(gold color)3/8 X20,and I like to use 5/16 grade 70 for light stuff. I use 3500# work load straps too.
 
I've used old chains as well as some I've bought new. RBHUNTIN is right on target! However, let me also say that with the influx of nylon straps nowdays, many people are moving away from the heavier chains. My opinion is, there's a time and a place for straps, and times when they shouldn't be used. Anyway, you can often find used chain but never just accept that it isn't damaged somewhere along its length. A bent or re-welded link, or a replacement link are all weak points, as are any areas that have rubbed and ground into the metal.

Last chain I bought was from an ACE store, I think. As long as you're buying from a reputable retailer, shouldn't be any problem to chains doing the job intended. Whether using chains or straps (or both), one thing to keep in mind is to plan for the worst - an accident. When securing a load, I was taught to secure that load as though I "expected" to be in an accident, so that it would not break away and injure or kill someone. Chains are much more resistant to damage than straps.

As for load binders, I ONLY have experience with the older-style, non-ratcheting binders. They are perfectly safe, so long as you follow a few basic guidelines

When buying chains and binders, don't get something that is rated "for your load", as even hitting a large pothole can put greatly increased stresses on your equipment. Would be best to research and learn more in-depth about chains/binders, proper ways to secure a load, etc. Have been lots of needless injuries and deaths due to people being too complacent (or bullheaded!) to do the research. You thought enough to ask. That tells me you care!
 
I buy my G70 3/8 chains from Rural King. I put grabber hooks on one end of chain. I attach the grabber hooks to the D rings at end of trailer. Then I figure out how long I need the chain to be so tractor is positioned exactly where I want it on implement trailer. Then I center tractor and pull forward to tighten both chains. May take a few attempts, no chain binder needed.

Then I find the strongest 2 inch ratchet straps I can find. Put short G70 chains on each end of strap so strap can't rub against any metal on tractor. Use another grabber hook on short chain to attach to front D ring.

Newton said something in motion tends to stay in motion. I figure the two chains at the rear of the tractor keep it on the trailer and not in the back of the truck.

I was having lunch at Subway where two DOT inspectors eat lunch. I know one of the inspectors dad. I asked him if he sees anything with my set up. He said I'm good.

I also use two more ratchet straps in the front end to pull tractor sideways and two more on rear to pull sideways so there in no possible way my tractor could tip off trailer if I made a sudden turn.
 
DOT was wrong straps are not legal for anything with wheels. Just because he doesent know the law the next fellow probably will so to save money and hassle dont use straps to bind anything on wheels.
 
Under perfect conditions, there shouldn't be anything wrong with just putting the tractor in park and taking things slow. ...But that'd be insane, right?

The purpose of chaining loads down is to make them as closely as possible to being one integral part of the trailer. Imagine some idiot cutting you off or, worse yet, clipping your rig and causing you to go out of control. The purpose of chaining down is to keep the load with the trailer rather than having your tractor go rolling down the road - on its side.

I was raised on the idea to hope for the best, but prepare for the worst. I definitely go overboard when tying down my loads. Had a small car cut us off on a downhill run a couple years ago and my loaded trailer rolled over and landed upright. My small tractor, lumber, and even a brush hog mower were nearly perfectly in place. Even I was amazed that everything stayed so well in place.
 
The two DOT inspectors I talked to at subway both work at the weigh station on I70 just as you come into Indiana from Illinois .

If my load wasn't legal, why didn't they say something? Give me a written warning or something? I specifically asked them is they see anything wrong. I'm good was there answer.

Keep in mind, I'm not a commercial carrier, private only. They even asked if it was my tractor, trailer and truck? Yes to all. They said it would be another story if I wasn't owner of all three.

I'm going to listen to my friend's boy, the DOT inspector.

Please ask your DOT inspector for their opinion.
 
Saw a fellow two day ago go around a curve pickup gooseneck and a 8f round cylinder made of pipe roll over it stayed hooked somehow had straps going thrugh the circle and was rolling side to side .he was a luckey gut that day slow motion
 
"The two DOT inspectors I talked to at subway both work at the weigh station on I70 just as you come into Indiana from Illinois .
If my load wasn't legal, why didn't they say something?"
Maybe because they were on break and didn't like that you were bothering them with a work related question.
 
HF chain and binder are as good as any JUST make sure they are stamped G70 hey must meet the test to be G70
 
You are wrong again with your no strap malarkey on anything with wheels.Next time you see a car carrier hauling new cars,look how they are secured.Manufacturers want wheel straps now,on the tires,no more chains,among other things.Straps can be used when they are rated properly.
 
www.uscargocontrol.com They carry Dot straps,chains,binders anything for any type of cargo.Got it bookmarked on my PC
 
I don't think I was bothering them. Once the DOT officer found out I knew his dad for many years, the conversation never ended.

They enjoyed talking shop. All the things they saw people say and do. I stop off at the subway for lunch and have ran into the pair of officers eating there on more than one occasion.

I'll ask them again if there is anything wrong with using ratchet straps and chains?

Aren't new cars shipped on trucks with straps around wheels?

Rent a two wheel U-haul car mover, don't they strap the rubber wheels to hauler?
 
The straps used on the wheels aren't simply straight straps, but designed specifically for use over wheels. You couldn't use those same wheel straps over lumber, for example.

Straps "can" be used - in some areas, maybe using only strong straps is enough. It's just not enough as "I" was raised.

In addition to my chains, I also had ratchet straps of many different sizes. Some were like these, with a 3,000 lb. working limit and a 10,000 breaking strength:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RATCHET-STR...wing-Moving-/311821511583?hash=item489a02ab9f
After the accident, there wasn't one single strap that survived and could be used again - not to mention, the more they get maxed out, the less strong they become over time. Meanwhile, I had chains that were ground halfway through yet were still strong enough to right the trailer with the load intact.
 
You also have to be aware of another potential problem when buying either chains or straps, but mostly with straps. As listed above, that strap I posted has a "working limit" and a "breaking strength". Chains do as well. Always pay attention to what the working load limit is. Sizing your purchase according to the total listed strength is a good way to get someone killed -- maybe even you!

That eBay link I posted says, and I quote, "10000 Lb Holding Strength". It says NOTHING about any other limits. If you look up reputable sellers with the same strap, they will list both numbers. Don't be fooled by the sales pitches. After all, it's not the seller's lives on the line!
 
The grade 70 chains with binders of a similar strength will work. You need enough tie down for half the load weight in forward and backward movement, and there are some G forces figured in there also. Don't recall all the details. The chains and binders do need to be labeled with the rating, or they will be figured at the weakest strength level.
I have some I cut in half then added a hook to the ends for shorter chains. You can also use the ends and let the slack hang in the middle between your binders. Another words hook one end to the trailer and the other end to the trailer then use a binder with it around the draw bar to the one side then a binder to the other side the loose will hang in the middle of the trailer.
I don't like straps for things like equipment as it allows it to bounce some in the stretch of the strap. A chain will be tight and solid. Nothing wrong with straps legality wise.
For Geo in TH You can buy the straps you want with the chain already attached to the strap
I get my straps and chains from truck dealers and from Tri-couny Tarp in Bradner OH They are good people to work with too. I have found even the truck dealers are reasonable on some things.
I have used both the USA and China made chains and binders with no problems. Big thing is to make sure they have the rating on then.
 
I but them all over the place a local truck shop stocks them I like the guy that runs it so spend a little money with him. I am sure it chines junk tho.

Someone posted stake pocket d rings I could not stand it so ordered 4 I plant to order MORE :)
 
(quoted from post at 15:52:14 03/15/17) DOT was wrong straps are not legal for anything with wheels. Just because he doesent know the law the next fellow probably will so to save money and hassle dont use straps to bind anything on wheels.
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Gene, please quote a source as I did two weeks ago. It is wrong to keep passing false information! ADEQUATE straps are legal for any and all loads except blocks of stone.
 
(quoted from post at 16:58:45 03/15/17) you are right GENE, always chain a rolling load!
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Stonerock, you don't make the laws, Congress and state legislator do. State DOTs enforce them.

Subpart I of Part 393 of title 49 of the Federal Motor Carrier Act specifies that straps are fine. Requirements are not at all stringent for units under 10,000 lbs. Requirement is simply that the means of securing must keep the unit from shifting side to side or front to back. The only piece of freight that requires chains are blocks of stone. Get a book. They keep your local DOT office well stocked with them because they want YOU to have one.
 
I checked out a car hauler tonight on the highway as I passed. The truck on the back of the trailer was restrained by two straps, one each side. The strap originated in front of the front wheel, went over the front tire to a hold-down device at the deck behind the front wheel, then back to another hold down in front of the rear wheel, over the rear wheel and back to the ratchet behind the rear wheel. It makes sense, no extreme binding to overcome the play in the suspension of the hauled vehicle; tie the tires down tight and let the springs/shocks do their jobs.

I was surprised not to see anything that resembled a web-basket over the tires, just a single strap. This was the truck parked at an angle on the back of the trailer, not on a flat spot. Sure seems easier and far less likely to damage the new vehicle than chains. The insurance companies must have signed off on this technique, they would sure raise cain if it didn't work reliably.
 
The insurance companies must have signed off on this technique
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Not necessarily. The insurance companies don't know what's going on out there unless there is an accident and an investigator can show that a vehicle (or other load) was not properly secured.

Also, some time back I had to have my Dad flown home from California, but hired a company to ship his car. They shopped around until they found a car hauler that had space heading in the right direction. Dad's car looked new; it nearly was. However, only very minimal straps were used. Couldn't understand the driver as he was (I think) Chinese and spoke almost no English. So was the car secured properly? I dunno. It made it OK, so everything's good - although the driver kept wanting more money than what he was supposed to get!
 
I have no doubt that your load is secure, but here is something to consider, each tiedown must be adjustable. Technically, the 2 chains you pull the tractor forward to tighten, must each have a binder. This is from 393.112. If the DOT inspectors said you're good to go, that was their opinion, at that time. The next officer you encounter may have a different opinion. Ron
 
(quoted from post at 05:37:38 03/16/17) Ask any two DOT officers individually, and you will get THREE different opinions on how to secure a load properly to pass inspection.
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Well, there is a very good reason for this, that will become obvious if you were to get the book and read the rules as every good professional driver does. There is simply a LOT of latitude in the rules. It is obvious that the USDOT in making the rules wanted to keep us safe, without being an unnecessary burden. So you have many options for doing it your way, as long as it works out to be safe and you are not breaking any of the specific rules.
 
Harbor freight only has 2 grade 70 chains a 5/16" and 1/2" both are 20 foot long. Every thing else they sell is grade 43 or is not graded at all.
 
Harbor freight doesn't handle grade 100 chain or hooks. The only hooks they list online or in store are grade 43.
 
As far as I can tell from searching part 393 there is nothing wrong with Grade 43 as long as they're rated for the item being secured per 393.102.

I don't see any requirement that chains be G70 rated.
 
(quoted from post at 12:40:39 03/16/17) As far as I can tell from searching part 393 there is nothing wrong with Grade 43 as long as they're rated for the item being secured per 393.102.

I don't see any requirement that chains be G70 rated.
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Yes! There you have it! The requirements allow a LOT of leeway.
 
You use the chain Grade that's rated for the weight of load your hauling. Grade 30 is not recognized for binder use.
a154421.jpg
 

I've helped several towing companies during auto accidents, they hook to the car and hook the chain into a slot in the trucks bed, then they use the front winch to pull the rear chains tight.
They don't use binders, the slot in the bed allows for chain length adjustment.
It doesn't say binders must be used on both ends, it means all chains on each end need to be adjustable so that they are all tight when you finish securing the load.
 
(quoted from post at 17:10:47 03/15/17) You are wrong again with your no strap malarkey on anything with wheels.Next time you see a car carrier hauling new cars,look how they are secured.Manufacturers want wheel straps now,on the tires,no more chains,among other things.Straps can be u sorry TRKR I was talking about tractors not cars, this is a tractor form
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showcrop, you said the ONLY piece of freight that requires chains are blocks of stone, what about coil steel
or any steel casting...next time I haul coils will ask the other drivers why they use chains
 
Tractor forum,not form,but you are still wrong.I've hauled specialized oversize around North America for 45 years,I know a little about tiedowns.
DOT was wrong straps are not legal for anything with wheels. Just because he doesent know the law the next fellow probably will so to save money and hassle dont use straps to bind anything on wheels.
 
I don't know what the rules are, but there is a different DOT for each state, correct? Isn't it possible that some rules apply in some areas while not in others?
 
RBMI glad you found that info a chain at each corner and a binder at each corner for a rolling load [tractors or heavy eq]....this is in ohio
 
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