Long puller

CBBC · Mar 10, 2017

I had to pull a taper bushing off a shaft that was far longer than anything I had. In the past I have ended up zip cutting bushings like this off. I didn't want to this time, as I wanted to get the pump running again after changing out the bottom bearing.

I found a similar sized bushing in my inventory with a smaller diameter shaft hole. I places it on top of the shaft and joined the two up with 3 pieces of ready rod. It was pretty tight but once it started moving it slid right up.

I've learned a lot from this site and perhaps this will help someone else's out with a long shaft bushing removal. Grant.

jon f mn · Mar 10, 2017

That's a good idea, what ever it takes to get the job done.

muleman51 · Mar 10, 2017

That's a great idea, did you drill out the threads on the top bushing.. I work on grain driers and other grain equip. i'll keep that idea in mind. Thanks

CBBC · Mar 10, 2017

Thanks jon. Your one of the guys who I always learn something from and I appreciate it.
Grant.

CBBC · Mar 10, 2017

No drilling needed. There are three through holes to put the bolts into and suck the big sheave / pulls onto and hold in place. I put the rod through these and tightened the nuts on the top.
The other two holes are threaded ... I left the bolts in there after I used them to push the sheave off.

I actually made another puller out of two pieces of angle and a couple rods to "set" / raise the impeller shaft and big sheave, it needed to all come up about 1/4" and that whole assemble weighs at least 250-300lbs. I'll try to get a picture of it some other time.
Grant.

greenmech · Mar 10, 2017

That's a good idea. I use that same way to pull John Deere wheels off splined axles. Ron Mn

showcrop · Mar 11, 2017

Good for you! I have made pullers a few times. Rather than drop the project and run 35 miles to and from the store, just go the scrap bin and find some pieces to cobble together. They are usually built around the same 7/8 fine threaded bolt 10 inches long.

Geo-TH,In · Mar 11, 2017

Grant,
Good for you. Nothing like a little redneck (yankee) engineering. I like to see people thinking outside the box and using what they have to get the job done.
geo

Russ from MN · Mar 11, 2017

We used to make up a lot of them like that, usually made a flat steel plate, and used a porta-power hydraulic jack. Also we used to order better quality all-thread from Fastenal, that shiny rod stretches very easy.

Duane WI · Mar 11, 2017

I thought tapper lock bushings had extra threaded holes that bolt go through to push the bushing off. There isn't a corresponding hole in the sheave so threading in bolts pushes the bushing up.

stonerock · Mar 11, 2017

Duane there is extra threaded holes to push the bushing off the shaft. maby he didn't know what they were for

Russ from MN · Mar 11, 2017

The pusher holes will push the sheave off the bushing, not move the bushing in most cases, if you put blocking behind the sheave then maybe it would move a ways. But then you would be putting thrust on the bearings, the way he did it is the prefered way to do it.

Tramway Guy · Mar 11, 2017

I usually just wedge a screwdriver or chisel in the split and expand the bushing slightly, it comes off easy then.

stonerock · Mar 11, 2017

Duane WI you are right, first clean the shaft up, then push sheave off of bushing then spread bushing with a chisel, put long bolts back in, now remove bushing with a inpact, bushing off and shaft clean, that is the prefered way to do it

Long puller

CBBC

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jon f mn

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muleman51

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CBBC

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CBBC

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greenmech

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showcrop

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Geo-TH,In

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Russ from MN

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Duane WI

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stonerock

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Russ from MN

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Tramway Guy

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stonerock

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