New to this forum and tractors. Just purchased a TO30 thinking what a great project to fix up a old tractor to use on my property. Found water in the oil. Took the engine apart and found what I've come to learn is quite the issue. Cracks between the cylinders on top and between each one on the bottom. Took it to a few local machine shops who had no sujestions on anyway to fix it. On top of that the crank is scored beyond .030 so resurfacing it isn't a option. I could deal with buying a new crank if I had a decent fix for the cracks. Any advice or direction would be appreciated.
- Thread starter Ticranch
- Start date
I fix them all the time by using cross bolt threw the water jacket. use the seaping type locktite on the crack drill and tap for long bolts in an appropriate place between the sleeve and tigten to specks. The top isn't that important but the deck should be recut and the counter bores should be remachined. Did lots of blocks that way and never had a problem.
Drill through the water jacket just above the cracked part. YOU will need a long drill and tap of the apopiat size and drill and tap the water jacket on the opposite side of the block. then put your locktite in the crack and let it seep in the crack. then draw the bolts up and install the sleeve. Dish soap works on the oring ,make sure every thing is clean and try the sleeve with out the orings for fit.Do not drop them in place set them in gently. Once down in place they should turn freely. If not you will cut the orings on the way in and you will have the same problem you started with. Once you get it back together you can pressure test with about 6 or 7 lbs. of air pressure.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
Cut your losses now and part the tractor
out.
Look for MF 35 or 135 - or a 600, 800,
2000, 3000, 4000 Ford.
A TO 30 is about the same as a Ford 8N - no
live hydraulics, no live PTO, no power
steering, etc, etc.
Keep going as you are and you'll soon have
$5 Grand into a tractor that might fetch
$2500 on a good day and in the meantime
doesn't have the modern features that makes
it more functional, more capable.
For $5G you can get a nice unit in the
models listed above that won't need all that
work and will be just as fun to tinker with,
own and operate.
out.
Look for MF 35 or 135 - or a 600, 800,
2000, 3000, 4000 Ford.
A TO 30 is about the same as a Ford 8N - no
live hydraulics, no live PTO, no power
steering, etc, etc.
Keep going as you are and you'll soon have
$5 Grand into a tractor that might fetch
$2500 on a good day and in the meantime
doesn't have the modern features that makes
it more functional, more capable.
For $5G you can get a nice unit in the
models listed above that won't need all that
work and will be just as fun to tinker with,
own and operate.
I had a TO30 years ago and after I got it I found low oil pressure when warm. Turns out the mains on the crank were bad and took to .040 to clean up but new mains were put in and ran it for several years like that. Do not remember what the rod bearings were like. But .040 does work on main.
Listen to UD. Even when you get the engine sorted, you still don't have much to work with If you want to use it often. I got an 8N for free, and I bought a JD later model because the 8N won't do the stuff I need.
Nothing wrong with the TO30, good rig, but you're gonna be upside down for a long time, and may wind up with something else in the future.
I'd look for a nicely kept Ford 3000, or MF135.
Nothing wrong with the TO30, good rig, but you're gonna be upside down for a long time, and may wind up with something else in the future.
I'd look for a nicely kept Ford 3000, or MF135.
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