Disc harrow axle nut issue

perryjosh64 · Mar 4, 2017

Folks got an old Ford disc harrow I'm trying to change discs on but can't get axle nut to bust loose? Don't assume it's just locked up with rust along with locking plate? Any suggestions on how to remove without damaging disc harrow axle?

Dell (WA) · Mar 4, 2017

Perry.........try WHITE vinegar. It will EAT the rust. Qt vinegar $1, cheap. Beats a flame wrench, eh?.......Dell

big jt · Mar 4, 2017

Only way I have found to easily get a arbor nut loose is a impact wrench. I use a 3/4 drive that is rated to deliver something
like 800 foot pounds.

If you are trying to do this with hand wrenches you will fight endlessly getting it apart and then you will be fighting loose
blades after the job is done.

jm2cw

jt

Dick L · Mar 4, 2017

The last disc I rebuilt I ground both sides of the nut down to where I could just see the threads and knocked them off with a hammer and used new nuts after tracing the threads on the axle.

perryjosh64 · Mar 4, 2017

I assume "arbor nut" is either the proper name or another name for the nut because I'm calling it the axle nut because that's what "the picture" said it was in the Agri Supply catalog said it was? Should have started with "I don't know what I'm doing" and basing a lot off of pictures!

paul · Mar 4, 2017

These need to be exceptionally tight.

Giant pipe wrenches with pipes on the end.

Or

A torch to heat the nut.

Or

A big (3/4 or more) impact wrench.

You need to get it just as tight going back on again.

Paul

big jt · Mar 4, 2017

Well Poop. I always refered to it as a arbor bolt. Could have sworn it was refered to that way in one of the catalogs I usually
go to at least for reference on such matters (Sloan Express and Shoup) Just checked both their sites and they both refer to them
as Axles.

Anyway I am sure we are talking about the same thing since you are trying to replace the blades and I stand by my advice as to
removal and making sure you get them tight on reassembly.

jt

jon f mn · Mar 4, 2017

Other than the things already mentioned I
have used a 24" pipe wrench and hit it with
a 2 pound hammer. Do the same going on and
alternate between tightening the but and
hitting the other end of the shaft to set it
in. You will get more turns on the but each
time you hit the shaft long after you think
it's right. Of all these suggestions the
impact is the easiest by far.

Leroy · Mar 4, 2017

Vinegar has to be able to get to the rust, it cannot do that in a situation like this.

Texasmark1 · Mar 4, 2017

Mr. Dell Sir, I noticed the emphasis on "white" not apple cider or other vinegars. I've heard vinegar kicked around for various things including radiator hygiene which I am going to try this spring after the freezes are over. Would you care to elaborate on your comment.

Thanks,
Mark

Leroy · Mar 4, 2017

Instead of grinding them down I just used a cutting disk on an angle grinder to get to the same spot and then the threads left came off easy.

4wdtom · Mar 4, 2017

If you can get it to an anvil or other solid object, set one flat of the nut on the anvil and hit the opposite side good with a sledge hammer a couple of times. If you
can turn it do the same on the other sides. The shock blow will slightly deform the nut and break the rust bond. Maybe. This works sometimes on rusted nuts.

Ellis Kinney · Mar 4, 2017

I had a situation just like your's and solved it this way. Can you heat it? If so warm it up and melt candle wax around the bolt. It will follow the heat into
the threads like solder goes into a sweat fitting. I worked on my bog harrow with a 3/4 drive breaker bar and pipe to no avail until I tried wax. Ellis

showcrop · Mar 4, 2017

I ordered new nuts from Shoups or Sloan express, and took the old ones off with the flame wrench.

Dell (WA) · Mar 4, 2017

fricken'putter........lost my reply.......Mark.......iff'n I'd said "acidic acid" nobody would know what I wuz talking about. You use white vinegar that you buy at the grocery store to make dill pickles with. .........the pickled Dell

Gary Mitchell · Mar 4, 2017

We always used a great big crescent wrench with a 6 foot long cheater pipe on it at the nut end and a good big pipe wrench on a spacer a ways back. That failed one time in the many years we used that old Oliver disk so pop welded a nut on the far end of the "arbor bolt" and put the pipe wrench there. It was never a big deal. gm

bcdave · Mar 4, 2017

I welded a large nut on the other end of the axle to fit a pipe wrench. I heated the axle nut and turned it off with a 3/4 drive with a long cheater bar. It wasn't as easy as it sound but it did work. I left the welded nuts on for tightening.
Dave

flying belgian · Mar 4, 2017

Impact wrench. I just finished replacing the front ones on mine. Be sure and polish the ends of the spools before reassembly. If there is any rust or dust on spool ends you will not get it tight enough.
Then wire wheel the threads and lube good with never-seize. That will insure good and tight and assist in removal for the next person 40 years from now. Also never-seize on cotter pin. for next person.

Bernie/MA · Mar 4, 2017

Use a big cold chisel and put a shallow crease across one flat, parallel to the axle. That will spread it a fraction to break the rust and you can still use the nut. Worked for me.

Texasmark1 · Mar 4, 2017

Around here vinegar is diluted to about 5% AA. So I guess it doesn't make much difference then if the other 95% is apples or water......does it???? Not being a SA. Just curious.

Thanks,
Mark

perryjosh64 · Mar 5, 2017

Folks I appreciate all the advise. I'm off tomorrow so I'll be getting after it. Just so you know what I'm working with here is a picture of the nut.

Disc harrow axle nut issue

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