rusty broken bolt removal

ericlb

Well-known Member
i was replacing the waterpump on my 1951 ford tudor, yesterday, now for history this thing sat from 1972 to 2 years ago, its a 20,000 mile varifyable car, 2 bolts came out fine an new looking, the bottom 2, were stuck,this a 226 flathead 6 cylinder engine, the last year for it, i managed to tickle one out with the impact wrench by alternately tightening and loosening it, but the other one snapped off, now its the one under the intake for the water so i can see it but not much more, i may be able to heat it with the torch i hope, on the outside i can get a nut on whats left, and plan to weld the nut on the bolt shaft then heat the bolt inside the block if i can, then heat the block around the bolt shaft, ive done this on machinery successfully but not a irreplaceable engine in a car,this car is a time piece everything is the factory stuff, is this the best option for successfully removing the bolt? what i can see of it is heavily corroded
 
I would never use an impact on an initial disassembly with rust. I always use a hand wrench and I am really careful about forcing it too hard. If it doesn't come loose with something slightly above normal force, then I heat. I use as focused a heat as I can on the fastener. I do not generally heat the surrounding metal. I shield off anything that I don't want hot and use care in what direction I point the torch. After it cools a vice grip clamped on what remains of the head will usually spin it out easily. In the right season of the year, I do this pretty much every day on one piece of equipment or another. The fun of farming with junk... :)
 
If it's not flush,ya,weld a nut to it. If it doesn't stick out far enough to get a nut all the way on,weld a washer to it,then weld a nut to the washer.
 
Sometimes repeated heating and cooling cycles will help, the expanding and contracting helps to break the rust bond. I think I would still want to try and remove it hot though. I know a lot of people swear by candle wax, but plain motor oil works well for me too. Last resort is to drill it out and chase threads or re-tap oversize .
 
Sometimes centering a drift on the bolt (to avoid messing up the existing bolt) and giving it a good rap with a hammer will loosen it up.
 
Try heating it several times and when that fails to work, do it again, but quench it quickly with a cold liquid. Then screw it out.
 
I have has good success using a torch and burning out the threads. If it were mine I would drill a hole down the middle. go in with the cutting torch, and blow the thing out. Don't spend a lot of time a lot of time. Then chase the threads with a tap. Stan
 
I'd already have blown it out with a "smoke wrench" in less time than it took you to post this.
 
washer and nut is my go to. i've heard of wax for years but if it's broke off, you need something to turn it out with. i just did the nut for yrs but really like the flat washer and then the nut
 
When I get one stuck I take my map gas torch and heat the head and it helps free em up . If it's broke I usulaly weld a nut to it
 
After you get the nut welded on, let it cool a bit then whack the nut good with a hammer if you can get a swing at it. On occasion I have been able to unscrew it with my fingers doing it this way.
 
Is there enough left to grab with a Vise Grip? If so, put a brazing tip on your acetylene torch so you can focus the flame. Heat JUST the bolt, as there's no way you can put enough heat into the block to make a difference. Once the bolt is cherry red, grab it with the Vise Grip and it should come out easily.
 

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