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Wiring troubles

J

john in la

Well-known Member
Location
What part of in La do you not understand
Have been having problems with my A/C blower motor in my International work truck.
The motor will go off for a few seconds than go back on.
Has been in the shop several times. With the intermittent problem they were having trouble finding the cause.
They have replaced the blower motor; heat exchanger; wiring harness; trying to fix the problem.

Friday it quit all together while I was out on the road.
Since it was 80 degrees I looked around and wiggled some wires to see if I could get it to come back on.
Sorry about the picture quality but this is what I found.


a152626.jpg




a152627.jpg




At first I was stumped because I thought this is why you have a fuse.
To prevent this.
The fuse is half melted but it is not blown.
Then I realized the side that is burned is the hot wire side.
I assume it had a bad connection and melted the metal prong right off the fuse from the heat.
Luckily there was no fire.
So back to the shop it goes.
I'm guessing they will replace to whole fuse box to fix any bad connection problems.
 
I started to say that I'm surprised the shop didn't check the fuses first - then I remembered what decade I'm in. :p

With all those other components already replaced, hopefully there won't be any more fuse problems.

One last thing - one "possible" cause for the fuse to do that is if the fuse was not fully installed. If so, then there would be an ever-growing arc that would melt the spade. Do other fuses in the box seem slightly loose?
 
There is not suppose to be a fuse there in the first place.
It is suppose to be a push button to reset circuit breaker.
Do not know if that makes a difference or when it was replaced.

The fuse was fully set as I had to dig the broken off prong out of the slot to get a new fuse in.
The end of the prong was still silver and not burnt.
Its like the prong broke off and then the arc was jumping from the end of the prong to the metal in the fuse.

The fuse box still looks good but they may replace it for just in case.
 
I've seen that lots of times, on the older stuff I just dig the wires out from behind the fuse panel and splice them to a good HD external fuseholder.
 
Hi, I had a similar problem with something shutting off then coming on again. I couldn't find the trouble myself but luckily we had an automotive electric shop nearby. Very esteemed. They found a faulty breaker in minutes.
Ed Will Oliver BC
 
When driving at night, my '55 Ford lights would all go out. I'd slow down and hold the steering wheel straight until the lights came on again. I tried everything I could think of; I couldn't find the problem and neither could an auto mechanic. It was still doing that when I sold the car. I doubt anyone ever figured out what was causing it. Must have been one of Ford's better ideas.
 
You didn't say what kind of vehicle. Some Ford pannels come Complete. Fuses, relays, and all. Plug and play. Way simple.
 
Hi, I had a similar problem with something shutting off then coming on again. I couldn't find the trouble myself but luckily we had an automotive electric shop nearby. Very esteemed. They found a faulty breaker in minutes.
Ed Will Oliver BC
 
I used to drive an old Peterbuilt that had water leaks around the windshield. the water would run down the fuse block. Before I started driving that truck, the turn signals would burn up the breaker when on 4 way. Doing local deliveries, we used the 4 way's a lot. The guys in the shop couldn't find the problem, so I used my powers of observation. When the breaker would blow, it would be HOT, and the spades where it plugged in would be burned. It turned out to be the contacts in the fuse block had gotten dirty or rusted from the water. Bad connections create heat. Problem found, Circuit moved to a better spare spot in the panel.
Tim in OR
 
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