OT, used truck

I'm am thinking about buying a used F350. Couple for sale, so am looking for advice:1988 with 460 gas, manual transmission, about 100K miles. 1993 diesel with auto transmission, 160K miles. Thoughts on engine + transmission combo assuming other issues are similar? Also, the 93 has more electronic stuff on it, the 88 not. I own a 1989 F250 and like the lack of electronic stuff. Any issue there?
 
also, on the diesel, how is cold weather starting? It can easily get to 10 deg here in winter (not this year) so how does that factor in?
 
Even if you do a lot of trailering, I would still go with the 460.

The 1993 is NOT a Powerstroke. It's an old normally aspirated IDI diesel if I'm not mistaken, 6.9L or 7.3L. Simple as a 2x4, but the 460 will run circles around it.

As far as the electronic stuff goes, the 93 is still running! How bad can it be?
 
Is the diesel the non turbo model? (I'm thinking the "powerstroke" was later 90s ). If so: the 460 will likely out pull that diesel. I've had several big engine gas Ford trucks in years past. Fuel mileage not great but strong pulling trucks. One ton with manual transmission is likely to be 4.10 rear gear (unless ordered different) .
 
I agree on the 460, had one with manual transmission. That thang would pull a mountain up hill if you could hook it up, but you could'nt pass a gas station.
 
I had a 91 f250 with a 460 and 5 speed. good runner dependable, and would pull anything. Very hard on fuel. Still,I agree with other comments here. Stay away from ford diesels below 95. the ones below 95 have no turbo and have idi injection. gutless wonder. my .02
 
93 7.3 diesel can be a nice truck IF it has the turbo. 1993 was available with a dealer-installed turbo and it was usually a Banks system. 1994 came with a factory ATS turbo early in the model year when then the Powerstroke took its place. E40D auto trans seems to need a rebuild every 100K miles if worked real hard. I have an early 94 diesel IDI and love it.
 
2 wheel or 4 wheel drive. I had a 86 F250 2 wheel drive and even after having it in alighment shops many a time and even a new steering box put in I could not keep it on the road, wander so bad it was unusable even with load levelers and anti sway bar. No one could figure that out. Without a trailer no problem. I drove a 89 F350 at work good truch but was a 4 wheel drive, Automatic tho and cannot remember engine.
 
Add says IDI,on Diesel in the 93. So, assume non-turbo. So, here is my deal: I put about 5,000 miles a year on my truck, hauling fire wood, hay for sale, occasional livestock. Pull a trailer + truck total about 2 tons of hay. Currently run a 89 F250 auto, with 120k miles on it, but rust has got ahold of the frame underneath. I re-built the back end of the frame 1 year ago & painted it. But, I know it won't last forever with the salt thrown down around these parts. I've had my truck for 20 years and have replaced all the normal stuff (radiator, gas tank, brakes, water pump, starters) But the rust on frame and steering parts is bothering the heck out of me. Now is time to sell an old, mid-mileage vehicle. I am not looking for newer, just less rusty. But, I do max out on the power of the 351 when pulling hay. No matter what I buy, it will need to go another 20 years. Nice thing about older vehicles is the parts are just flat out cheap now. My family drives Subaru's. Parts are 4x more $$$, easy.
 
(quoted from post at 07:27:34 02/20/17) Add says IDI,on Diesel in the 93. So, assume non-turbo. So, here is my deal: I put about 5,000 miles a year on my truck, hauling fire wood, hay for sale, occasional livestock. Pull a trailer + truck total about 2 tons of hay. Currently run a 89 F250 auto, with 120k miles on it, but rust has got ahold of the frame underneath. I re-built the back end of the frame 1 year ago & painted it. But, I know it won't last forever with the salt thrown down around these parts. I've had my truck for 20 years and have replaced all the normal stuff (radiator, gas tank, brakes, water pump, starters) But the rust on frame and steering parts is bothering the heck out of me. Now is time to sell an old, mid-mileage vehicle. I am not looking for newer, just less rusty. But, I do max out on the power of the 351 when pulling hay. No matter what I buy, it will need to go another 20 years. Nice thing about older vehicles is the parts are just flat out cheap now. My family drives Subaru's. Parts are 4x more $$$, easy.

If there is any difference in fuel mileage between the diesel and the gasser, the small savings would be offset by the higher price of diesel. For the way you would be using the truck, the 460 gasser just makes more sense.
 
The 460 will out pull the 7.3 in any year the two were offered. The 6.8 V10 had more power and torque than the 7.3 through about 2000, then the torque numbers on the 7.3 grew, but the 6.8 had more HP.
 
Hopefully these trucks you're looking at are from farther South like West Virginia or else they're going to be in the same shape as your current truck. No way you'll get another 20 out of them.
 
For 5000 miles a year and everything being equal I'd go with a gas. No matter what though with something this old (20+ years) I would go with the one in the best shape that appears to have received the best maintenance.

If you were driving 25000 miles a year I would go with a diesel, but I also wouldn't be looking at 20+ year old pickups.
 
I had an 88 460 . It WAS a good truck. Lots of power but thirsty. It got to be a pain fixing every electrical gremlin that popped up on it. Rotted wiring harness at PCM. Rotted Wires to fuel pump, in main harness etc. it got to the point where it was very unreliable to drive . Sold it for parts. I would NEVER own another that vintage.
 
One of my wife's brothers used to have an '89 F-350 crew cab dually with the 7.3 non-turbo and auto trans. I borrowed it a few times when I went on long hauls with a trailer. I always liked it.

Loaded or empty, I don't think the thing ever knew it had a trailer behind it. Got about 14-15 mpg loaded or empty. The only negative, if you can call it that, is when the temp got below freezing it wasn't too reliable about starting in the morning unless you plugged it in. That could be a concern if you were on the road and stopped somewhere overnight.
 
How many miles will you be driving it a year and how many of those miles will be for towing? Axle ratio will be important, know what to look for on the options sticker (low on the drivers door jamb on Fords?). For 25 to 30+ year old vehicles, condition and maintenance is everything. If you drive it less than 10,000 miles per year fuel consumption will not be your biggest cost. I'd lean towards a fuel injected 460 gas regardless of year or transmission. My last Ford had no problems with the electronics, it's problems were rust and other electricals including inside the steering column.
 
You're right, I replaced all the manifold bolts with Allen head grade 8's they never broke, but I had to retighten them about every 10,000 miles. My '77 F-250 2WD 460 C-6 and 4.10:1 rearend Trailer Special was a great puller and solid truck, I had 35X12.50X16.5 tires on it and got about 10 mpg empty bare truck and 6 mpg pulling 8000 lbs. of John Deere G and trailer. When gas got to nearly 4 bucks I had to let it go for a '95 F-150 351 4WD.......which is about all rusted away now, it gets 15 bare and 10 mpg pulling the same trailer load.
 
Had 1 of the the deisels with auto, used it for a farm tire service truck. Got tired of putting torque converters, tranny's, brakes, engine, starters, ignition parts on it. Scrapped it and bought a different brand diesel. Stick with the gasser, had 1 too. Keep a large pair of pliers or small hammer in the in the cab. The 460 we had would run somewhere between 5 and 25 miles then die while running down the road. Then you had to coast over to the side of the road, tap on the side of the carb, then it would run OK for a while. Good luck with the decision.
 

This is the switch on my 1993 F350 took me 2 days to find this after I lost dash, running and tail lights. Funny thing no service bulletin or recall Found out this is very common.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/testing-the-headlight-switch-1

Aerostar 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997

Bronco 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996

Bronco II 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990

E-150, E250, E350 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990,1991.1992,1993 I guess you can add F350 for sure and probably F250 and F150 to that list

Escort 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990

EXP 1987, 1988

Explorer 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994
1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997
Byron
 
Here's the switch
45868.jpg
 
7.3 IDI with no turbo will have a little more pulling power then a 351 gasser. 1993s sometimes have dealer-installed Banks turbos and make more power then the 1994 IDI with the factory ATS turbo system. I have a 1994 IDI with near 400K miles and the engine has never been apart. 4.10 axles, 4WD, E40D trans, extended cab, 8 foot box, gooseneck, etc. I was a Ford hater until I got this truck for $3000 around 15 years ago. Came from New Mexico with no rust. Been a fantastic truck for me and I suppose I will never get rid of it.
 
What a lot of people do not understand is that the light switches are designed for X amount of lights or amp draw . Then they go and throw on a trailer and tap into the tail light wires to power the trailer lights and add more amps to the switch. when i add in a trailer plug i also tap into the tail light wire , BUT only as a trigger tap to trigger the C V relay that draws off a power point that feeds a separate breaker same with the turn signals they run thru a C V relay also off the power point with there own self resetting breaker with everything going into a central junction box and a 7 wire trailer cable running back to another junction box then to the trailer plug . Everything is in a sealed box or plug Now if your truck came from the factory with trailer tow it is about the same . And one other thing i do is that i have my trailer lights on two separate systems just like semi's have , if one system fails for what ever reason you will still have tail lights and some side marker lights . Usually you have two tail lights on a side so one on each side should be on a separate system and if you have three marker lights on the side then pone of them should be on one and two on the other , if you have more then break them up .
 
I had the same thing happen on a Dodge B250 van. I also found out it was a common problem and my van was the last year Dodge used a
headlight switch with no relay to handle the power.
 
I'd pick whichever one looks like it has lived a better life and been taken care of, but I would lean more toward the 7.3 IMO.

BTW the 93 could be a factory turbo truck, Ford started doing those in 1993 and only used the de-branded ATS kits. The 7.3 IDI turbo engine is different than the N/A 7.3, a few internals were beefed up for the turbo application.
 

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