FLUID IN TRACTOR TIRES

S2710

Well-known Member
The picture that I will post was leaking C.C since 1985. We took the tires off a year ago. It took 30 years for the C.C to rust these rims out. The only reason that it rust the rims is because the owners are too lazy to repair it right when it starts leaking.

Bob
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Three years ago I bought a tractor that was in Bishop ca. I never thought when I had to change the rear tires out that they where filled with water. I wonder if the person enjoyed his tires being solid and hard with ICE inside them during the winter time. This tractor was a 1930 Case Orchard Tractor could it be they did not have enough weight and they needed to be weigh down more so they put fluid in the rear wheels?
 
I never have figured out why posts about such things are titled "CC", or RUST or "chloride", etc., vs just saying "look what a leaky inner tube causes".
 

I often add to CaCL threads my observation that CaCl does not ruin rims- procrastination does.
 
...and I will refute that and say that anything CaCl solution touches is DOOMED.

You can rinse, scrub, wire brush, sand, and paint, but once that salt contacts the metal, it will continue to rust at an accelerated rate until it's gone.

I got a little CaCl solution on the wheels of my loader tractor when I changed out the valve stems. I immediately pressure washed everything down for about 30 minutes, using detergent and plenty of water, let it dry in the sun, hit it with a rust-converting primer, then painted. Didn't help a bit. That CaCl ate right through my fresh paint.
 
(quoted from post at 06:30:14 02/20/17) ...and I will refute that and say that anything CaCl solution touches is DOOMED.

You can rinse, scrub, wire brush, sand, and paint, but once that salt contacts the metal, it will continue to rust at an accelerated rate until it's gone.

I got a little CaCl solution on the wheels of my loader tractor when I changed out the valve stems. I immediately pressure washed everything down for about 30 minutes, using detergent and plenty of water, let it dry in the sun, hit it with a rust-converting primer, then painted. Didn't help a bit. That CaCl ate right through my fresh paint.

Well that's funny. I had one repaired out in the field once, it was five miles away. It was about two weeks before I got it home to rinse it off and I never did see any damage to the paint, the metal, or even the petunias.
 
My grandpa and dad and now myself have never used salt water in tractor tires. We all have used cast weight if needed. Not a single rusty rim on the farm. No mess either if I have a flat.
 


We have always had fully Loaded ( Calcium Water) and I feel that # for #, the Calcium gives the best traction and stability.. sure, we add more if we need it..

I have not had to replace or repair even ONE Rim because of corrosion...and I probably average 40 years on a set..

I don't let Locust trees get started, so I have few problems with those Thorns...

In my smaller equipment, the RIDE is better...if I take one with no Load in the tires out on the road, it will rock and roll and keep me slowed down until the flat-spots ( from setting) round back out... The Loaded ones never do this..

Rear tires on the "Loader Tractor" ( JD "B") were always Loaded (To the Top of the Rim) and set wide and made it pretty stable ( within Reason, anyway)..

Actually never saw much of a reason to lighten one up and no problems getting into tight places because of a stack of wheel weights..
May have made deeper ruts where it was wet, BUT..got Stuck far fewer times..

At least Calcium water will only kill grass/weeds Short-term..where anti-freeze is dangerous for any animals and Windshield washer fluid are neither nearly as heavy..

What ever "Floats Your Boat"...!!
 

The leak and corrosion can occur on the tube side of the rim. By the time corrosion is apparent the rim is already ruined.
In an ideal world 700lbs of external cast iron wheel weights and dry tubeless tires is superior to 700lbs of liquid ballast inside a tubed tire.
 

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